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Routes in b. Jackie and friends

5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+
His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R
Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 3 pitches
FA: 1950s: Dave Noyes and Eric Schiffman
Page Views: 3,774 total, 34/month
Shared By: bryan barnett on Nov 4, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


60 Opinions

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Description

1. Climb the chimney to the top (no pro), hang around the corner (pro), then make awkward moves onto the belay ledge.

2. Chimney a few moves, then stay left on the face following a fracture, using the back wall for stemming as well. The route Big Chimney stays in the chimney to the right. Belay at a ledge below a hand crack. From here, an easy traverse right would let you bail over to the Baby/Easy O bolts.

3. Climb the hand crack to the overhang. Traverse right and into the next right-facing corner. Head up the corner and the face above to a tree belay.

Descend by rappel over Baby (climbers' right), or walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Location

To the right of Betty. The big obvious chimney to the right of the large, left-facing Matinee corner.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Walk off via the Uberfall Descent, or head to the right and rappel down Baby.

Photos

Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.6 PG13
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.6 PG13
The last pitch is not to be missed!! and is certainly... certainly not as hard as son of easy o.... at all Nov 1, 2015
Kyle Sears
  5.6 PG13
Kyle Sears  
  5.6 PG13
Link the first 2 pitches. p1 belay is awkward and cramped whereas the top of p2 offers a spacious ledge.

The cruxy sections on each pitch come back to back this way and makes for a much more interesting climb. Communication is clear to the ground throughout the first 2 pitches, and as long as your second has some chimney experience (or the gumption to grind it out), he or she will thank you for not making them belay at the top of p1.

Also, with such little gear on p1, there's no need to worry about not having enough for the rest of p2! Jul 1, 2015
kenr
  5.8 R
kenr  
  5.8 R
Lots of variety and some interesting moves -- but much of that is in the chimney sections. So you really have to be ready for serious chimney -- and most people nowadays (including me) are not.

The overhangs on P3 are intimidating and strenuous, but not that interesting. And surely harder than 5.6. Perhaps each single move is within 5.6, but the sequences are pretty sustained (and a couple of key moves lack footholds).

I found the exit from the lower chimney interesting and not awkward -- provided you have the strength to start with a hand-traverse of about five feet. Jul 12, 2014
rogerbenton  
 
Super fun. It would be a shame not to do all three pitches. Nov 14, 2013
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
I can't believe there isn't more of a mention about how horribly sandbagged pitch 3 is. It's as hard as Son of Easy O! Apr 25, 2012
chris_vultaggio
The Gunks
 
chris_vultaggio   The Gunks
 
such a great route - chimney, hand crack, face, roof, traverse, stemming - all in one 5.6, even if it is a little sandbagged.

Do it in one long pitch as long as your second is okay with the chimney to start for full value. Oct 5, 2011
ericcr
  5.6 PG13
ericcr  
  5.6 PG13
an incredible hidden gem, a good standby if you're trying to climb in this area on a crowded weekend. the chimney is much less of an ordeal than it looks. before you begin climbing it you scramble up ten feet or so, and end up on another ledge- so what looks like a horrid runout from the bottom is already shorter. the first part is the hardest, you get footholds and eventually a jug rail. Sep 2, 2011
doligo
 
doligo  
 
Wow, one of my favorite climbs in the Trapps now. Every pitch is great. The chimney is just a tiny bit scary enough, but it tapers down so if you fall you're not going anywhere (BETA: it is possible to get a microcam in the the seam that goes up Matinee, if you are unsure of your chimneying). P2 finger crack face moves are definitely stiffer than 5.6, the P3 traverse is on tiny feet but bomber fist jams. Aug 13, 2011
JSH

JSH    
I was surprised at how much, and what a variety, of climbing this route packs in! The chimney fairly easy if you're fluent in wide. The step around right is spicy, but protected. The second pitch is ... definitely not a gimme, and you're making moves well above gear a few times.

The third pitch has hands, a traverse, a juggy corner 'hang, and nice face - all in 50'.

That said, it's definitely one of Those (hard!) Gunks 5.6s. Jul 19, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I gotta say, I thought this was a terrible climb with the exception of P3. The first unprotected P1 was slippery and strange. The move to the belay was awkward. We did P2 of Big Chimney (go into the chimney and climb near the crack, use the crack for pro, go up to the ceiling, traverse and turn around and use the big ledge above for hands and put your feet on the opposite wall. Exit the chimney and climb the face/corner to a belay.) We finished up on P3 of Miss Bailey, that's the only pitch that was fun. It had a spicy traverse with underclings and less than stellar feet. Roofs and jugs. Lots of fun.

OK...I went back to this climb 7 years later and guess what? I loved it. Seth ran P1/P2 together (with judicious use of long runner at the top of the first chimney) and I lead P3. To me, it feels harder than a 6 (is it because I rarely practice my chimney technique?, but, every pitch is a "money" pitch. Great climbing, great positions, a very fun and slightly committing P3. I would have been happier with 2 #2's. Aug 15, 2009