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Routes in b. Jackie and friends

5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+
His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R
Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy, Jim Andress, and Ants Leemets 1962
Page Views: 4,412 total, 37/month
Shared By: Ross Fadely on Jan 10, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Fun climbing with drastically different pitches!

P1- Ease up the unprotected slab and test your gear placement artistry. Once set, bust a couple thin moves up to the left facing corner. Climb up to a nice belay.

P2- The monkey business. Climb up to the roof and move a bit left. Pull the roof and try to stop smiling. Move right to the RMC belay tree.

Descend by rappel, or walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Location

On the obvious slab 40 feet right of Pink Laurel and just left of a flaring chimney.

Protection

Standard rack with micronuts and/or extremely small cams.
Brandon  
That was the exact information I was looking for. Very clear. Thank you. Sep 25, 2017
SethG  
Brandon, since you have no trad gear I would say the answer to your question is NO. There is no bolted anchor above Ape Call and Ape & Essence. There is a tree with fixed gear at the ledge, but this is halfway up the cliff. You would need to know where to rappel in to find it from above. This tree might be workable to use as a TR anchor for Ape & Essence, but for Ape Call it would be off to the right and you would need to place trad gear for directionals at the very least in order to TR the route.

If, on the other hand, you had a trad rack and the ability to do an easier climb, you could lead RMC to the ledge above Ape Call and build a suitable anchor with directionals for the climbs you are talking about.

It sounds like you'd be better off at Peterskill, where there are many single-pitch climbs that are easy to TR from fixed stations above. Or in the Uberfall, where the cliff is shorter and there are numerous walk-arounds to set up climbs, though you may still need some guidance from people on the scene to know what you are doing. Sep 21, 2017
Brandon  
I come from the land of sport climbing so I have NO trad gear. I am camping with some friends in the Gunks next week and still want to climb. Can I set up a top rope on Ape call or Ape and Essence and be protected? Another online source said yes but I would feel more comfortable hearing from this community. Also, if there are ANY bolted routes that aren't well advertised please let me know. Thanks! Sep 20, 2017
Systematic
  5.8 PG13
Systematic  
  5.8 PG13
00 mastercam + 00 C3 provide good protection in the thin horizontal on the slab. Jun 4, 2017
Jeffrey Dunn    
 
I didn't like the small cams in the thin horizontal, but found really good offset brassies. May 23, 2016
There are some seriously loose chalked up blocks right beneath the P2 roof as of 10/18/2015. Be careful not to yank them down on your belayer while pulling the roof. Oct 19, 2015
Climbed this a couple of days ago. On my first try I placed a pair of pieces in the prominent first horizontal crack but nothing in the much smaller one above. I fell at the crux and with a good belay ended up about 4-5 feet off the ground...although I did flip upside down a bit since it's pretty low angle.

On the second attempt a friendly bystander suggested I try to place gear in the smaller horizontal cracks that I had pretty much written off completely the first time around. I managed to get in a purple C3 and a grey wild country zero; I would hardly describe it as bomber, but when i equalized them and gave it a few tugs it certainly seemed like it might hold! This time around I also scanned the wall much more thoroughly for footholds and found what I needed to get up to the next crack, at which point I was able to put in a solid #1. So yeah, the gear is fine--probably not even R--and the crux move is really not bad if you find the sequence.

I would also add that if you're planning on bringing your second up from the rap station (static rope with two rings attached to a tree) to climber's right of the finish of the roof, you will want to put in a directional above the roof. I put in a #3 above 5-6 feet above the lip. If there are no parties on the second pitch and you have enough gear leftover, you could also consider going directly above the roof maybe 20 or so feet to a fixed pin and build an anchor there. The second pitch didn't look that exciting so we bailed at the rap station, but I suspect you could make it to the top with a 60m rope without too much rope drag if you had enough long runners and the foresight to throw in a good directional for your second above the roof. Jul 13, 2015
Led this route on Friday onsight. I vote for 5.8 R. The gear protecting the crux moves to the good holds above the slab would be unlikely to hold a fall. This would result in an awkward ground fall from about 15' up. Nov 2, 2009
jd4567
Boulder, CO
jd4567   Boulder, CO
There is a report of a climber on Ape Call breaking his back in a groundfall on 10/26/09:

rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/fo…;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed; Nov 1, 2009
Ross Fadely  
 
Yeah, the climb may be R... I found some good ways to set small nuts. Equalized with a screamer, it felt better than some pieces Ive seen. Then again, I have a small gear fetish and may have had just the right pieces. Apr 16, 2009
jd4567
Boulder, CO
jd4567   Boulder, CO
The initial thin moves up the middle of the face are basically unprotectable. There is a low horizontal placement that is solid, but the next horizontal is thin, shallow, and mostly flaring. Two #4 or smaller nuts placed horizontally in opposition might hold, but I wouldn't bet on it. A fall at or near the next available placement opportunity (the first move in the lower crux) would likely result in groundfall. The juggy roof at the top of the climb is super fun. There is no need to break the climb into two pitches unless you intend to top out via RMC. Aug 17, 2008
Ross Fadely  
 
The PG-13 section is on the first pitch. The initial slab has no gear and the only gear protecting the crux is extremely small. Jan 11, 2008
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
Where exactly is the PG-13 section of this route? Is it on the first or second pitch? Jan 11, 2008