Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Betty Woolsey and Fritz Wiessner, 1941
Page Views: 17,309 total · 106/month
Shared By: Bob Hayes on Feb 17, 2007 with improvements by Joel Ryan
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

This is an old route with some historic significance. Dick Williams notes that this was the first route in the Gunks with a female FA.

The first pitch is straightforward. Go up the wide crack (face holds abound), and through the mellow overhang to stand on the spacious belay ledge with a bolted anchor.

The second pitch is less obvious, but it's tough to get into real trouble. Climb up a left-facing corner and chimney. From here, whether you stay right in the chimney systems, or traverse left onto the nose and face (fun!), the climbing is similar in difficulty and pro is reasonably available. The exposure on the nose variation is nice.

Descent: From the cliff top, rappel from the bolted anchor. If it's a busy day, you can also walk off via Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Location

This route is located just right of the Jackie area, and just before Matinee. It's the obvious easy-looking wide crack next to Raubenheimer Special, and is about 1 minute past the Uberfall.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos