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Routes in b. Jackie and friends

5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+
His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R
Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 125 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Roddy Miller and Jim Andress (1958)
Page Views: 1,686 total, 14/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 9, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

P1 - Climb the corner (#4 Camalot at top) then exit left at the left side of the large overhang and up to a ledge. Up the face to a nice ledge and oak tree belay/rap station.

P2 - Go left about 10 feet, then climb up and right past several old pins to join Belly Roll to a large pine tree at the top, or follow a corner above the belay to the top. The former version has nicer climbing and is a great lead for the beginning leader to get some exposure. The latter is the original P2.

Descend via Radcliffe (closer and faster and a fun little downclimb, but more obscure) or the Uberfall Descent. Please do not rap off the top of the cliff in this area on a busy day.

Location

At a tree just right of the obvious Belly Roll chimney, and below a large overhang 20 feet up.

Protection

PG. #4 camalot nice at the P1 crux if 5.3 is near your limit.

Photos

PTR
NEPA
PTR   NEPA
If I recall correctly, the first pitch "crux" can be protected by nut on lip of over-hang -- in case you don't own a big cam. Aug 30, 2013
CraigM
 
CraigM  
 
I didn't think the 2nd pitch was worth it. Finish on Belly Roll P2, but don't use the oak for anchor, because a rope drag monster will come to get you. Create a gear anchor at the bottom of the block below P2 of Belly Roll. Apr 30, 2012
TheIceManCometh
Albany, NY
 
TheIceManCometh   Albany, NY
 
Not a bad route, but agree that it doesn't get a lot of traffic. Finishing with the 2nd pitch of Belly Roll is best, very nice pitch.

On P1, you can exit left well before getting to the top of the roof, but there's no pro, so you'll ground if you fall. Nov 19, 2011
Alicia Sokolowski
Brooklyn, NY
 
Alicia Sokolowski   Brooklyn, NY
 
When I climbed Roddey in April, it was very dirty, and seemed like it had not been climbed in some time. Apr 10, 2011