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Routes in b. Jackie and friends

5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Creature Features T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+
His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R
Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasmine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Trad
FA: Kevin Bein and Mark Robinson - 1976
Page Views: 277 total · 98/month
Shared By: Dean Rosenthal on Mar 29, 2018
Admins: JSH

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Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Climb the unprotected chimney on Miss Bailey for 20 feet, until you can traverse out right to a no-hands rest on the ledge. After contemplating the difficulty of 5.5 chimney climbing and maybe cleaning some guano off of your hands, traverse out left along a good horizontal and pull some funky moves up into the left-leaning dihedral. Continue up and left around the roof, plug some bomber gear, and fire through the crux boulder problem. Join Matinee and finish on the Blackout Ledge.

Protection [Suggest Change]

With the exception of the chimney, this route is well-protected. Currently (3/29/2017) a fixed nut resides below the crux. There is a solid tree to use as an anchor on the Blackout Ledge.

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GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
if one wishes, the crux problem can be avoided by exiting right and then over the roof at 5.11 Apr 30, 2018
Danny Poceta
the gunks
 
Danny Poceta   the gunks
 
One of the cooler cruxes I have done in the gunks. Felt impossible without good beta. Would be a proud onsight. May 22, 2018

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