Type: Trad
FA: Kevin Bein and Mark Robinson - 1976
Page Views: 1,027 total · 36/month
Shared By: Dean Rosenthal on Mar 29, 2018
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Climb the unprotected chimney on Miss Bailey for 20 feet, until you can traverse out right to a no-hands rest on the ledge. After contemplating the difficulty of 5.5 chimney climbing and maybe cleaning some guano off of your hands, traverse out left along a good horizontal and pull into the dihedral. Continue up and left around the roof, plug gear, and fire the crux boulder problem. Join Matinee and finish on the Blackout Ledge.

Alternatively, one can traverse off right before the crux at 5.11, as was done by Bein and Robinson on the FA. The direct boulder problem finish was added by Dave Lanman, who called his variation Seeing Things.

Protection

With the exception of the chimney, this route is well-protected. Currently (3/29/2017) a fixed nut resides below the crux. There is a solid tree to use as an anchor on the Blackout Ledge.

Photos

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