Type: Trad
FA: Kevin Bein and Mark Robinson - 1976
Page Views: 464 total · 47/month
Shared By: Dean Rosenthal on Mar 29, 2018
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Climb the unprotected chimney on Miss Bailey for 20 feet, until you can traverse out right to a no-hands rest on the ledge. After contemplating the difficulty of 5.5 chimney climbing and maybe cleaning some guano off of your hands, traverse out left along a good horizontal and pull some funky moves up into the left-leaning dihedral. Continue up and left around the roof, plug some bomber gear, and fire through the crux boulder problem. Join Matinee and finish on the Blackout Ledge.

Protection

With the exception of the chimney, this route is well-protected. Currently (3/29/2017) a fixed nut resides below the crux. There is a solid tree to use as an anchor on the Blackout Ledge.

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GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
if one wishes, the crux problem can be avoided by exiting right and then over the roof at 5.11 Apr 30, 2018
Danny Poceta
Calgary
 
Danny Poceta   Calgary
 
One of the cooler cruxes I have done in the gunks. Felt impossible without good beta. Would be a proud onsight. May 22, 2018