Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: 1942 Fritz Wiessner, Ann Gross, and Ed Gross
Page Views: 1,366 total · 64/month
Shared By: Bob Johnson on Apr 24, 2017
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

19 Opinions

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This route is a great adventure. It's good for hot, crowded days when you want to cool off and/or experience some solitude. Not another living soul other than your partner will be visible once you're in the bowels of the chimney/cave on the second pitch.

P1 5.6: Up the chimney with no protection until you get about 30 ft up. At the top, swing around the corner and up onto a ledge. Enter the cave and set an anchor.

P2 5.6: Go deeper into the cave until a finger crack appears. Chimney up beside the crack. At the top, start working your way back towards the opening of the chimney. Re-enter the light. From here, it is possible to move up and climber's left onto the face and belay from the top of the second pitch of Miss Bailey (V1). Or continue straight up above the chimney exit to a large ledge with a tree (V2).

P3 (V1) 5.6+: Finish on the last pitch of Miss Bailey.

P3 (V2) 5.4: From the tree, climb upwards on blocky terrain to the top. Watch out for loose blocks.


Standard Gunks rack


brooklyn, ny
Danny   brooklyn, ny
Before getting into climbing i did a lot of canyoneering, so chimneying and stemming are some of my favorite techniques. This route is really fun for those into these techniques. Sometimes doing a lot of Gunks routes gets a bit repetitive and they can blur together in memory. Not this route. It's different, memorable and exciting. Particularly the mantle move out of the first chimney in P1. And then finding the perfect finger crack at the back of the second chimney P2. This reminded me of the second pitch of Off Balanced Rock in Arches NP.

The third pitch, where you join into Miss Bailey, was spicy and exciting for sure. Plenty of pro and strenuous jug/roof hauling but it's all there. I only hesitated during the undercling traverse, looking around for feet. There are small ticks or you could smear. It's one or two moves until you reach a bomber horizontal edge for your feet and jugs for the hands.

Do this route! Aug 7, 2017