Avg: 3.4 from 53 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|FA:||1942 Fritz Wiessner, Ann Gross, and Ed Gross|
|Page Views:||2,822 total · 66/month|
|Shared By:||Bob Johnson on Apr 24, 2017|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P1 5.6: Up the chimney with no protection until you get about 30 ft up. At the top, swing around the corner and up onto a ledge. Enter the cave and set an anchor.
P2 5.6: Go deeper into the cave until a finger crack appears. Chimney up beside the crack. At the top, start working your way back towards the opening of the chimney. Re-enter the light. From here, it is possible to move up and climber's left onto the face and belay from the top of the second pitch of Miss Bailey (V1). Or continue straight up above the chimney exit to a large ledge with a tree (V2).
P3 (V1) 5.6+: Finish on the last pitch of Miss Bailey.
P3 (V2) 5.4: From the tree, climb upwards on blocky terrain to the top. Watch out for loose blocks.