Mountain Project Logo

Routes in b. Jackie and friends

5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Creature Features T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+
His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R
Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: 1942 Fritz Wiessner, Ann Gross, and Ed Gross
Page Views: 865 total · 71/month
Shared By: Bob Johnson on Apr 24, 2017
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details

Description

This route is a great adventure. It's good for hot, crowded days when you want to cool off and/or experience some solitude. Not another living soul other than your partner will be visible once you're in the bowels of the chimney/cave on the second pitch.

P1 5.6: Up the chimney with no protection until you get about 30 ft up. At the top, swing around the corner and up onto a ledge. Enter the cave and set an anchor.

P2 5.6: Go deeper into the cave until a finger crack appears. Chimney up beside the crack. At the top, start working your way back towards the opening of the chimney. Re-enter the light. From here, it is possible to move up and climber's left onto the face and belay from the top of the second pitch of Miss Bailey (V1). Or continue straight up above the chimney exit to a large ledge with a tree (V2).

P3 (V1) 5.6+: Finish on the last pitch of Miss Bailey.

P3 (V2) 5.4: From the tree, climb upwards on blocky terrain to the top. Watch out for loose blocks.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack

Photos

Danny
brooklyn, ny
 
Danny   brooklyn, ny
 
Before getting into climbing i did a lot of canyoneering, so chimneying and stemming are some of my favorite techniques. This route is really fun for those into these techniques. Sometimes doing a lot of Gunks routes gets a bit repetitive and they can blur together in memory. Not this route. It's different, memorable and exciting. Particularly the mantle move out of the first chimney in P1. And then finding the perfect finger crack at the back of the second chimney P2. This reminded me of the second pitch of Off Balanced Rock in Arches NP.

The third pitch, where you join into Miss Bailey, was spicy and exciting for sure. Plenty of pro and strenuous jug/roof hauling but it's all there. I only hesitated during the undercling traverse, looking around for feet. There are small ticks or you could smear. It's one or two moves until you reach a bomber horizontal edge for your feet and jugs for the hands.

Do this route! Aug 7, 2017

More About Big Chimney

Printer-Friendly