Avg: 2.8 from 129 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||Dave Craft, Jim Andress, 1962. FFA: Dick Williams, 1964|
|Page Views:||7,444 total · 42/month|
|Shared By:||Guy H. on Feb 21, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Locate a large buttress 200' past the Uberfall, almost directly across from the "Uber-pooper", right before the trail that leads to Jackie and Classic. Look for a prominent left-leaning crack above a low bulge.
P1: Start by pulling the small overhang below the left-leaning crack. Follow this mixed-size crack to a crux at the end of the crack. There is good gear nearby, but it's pumpy to hang out and place it. After pulling past the awkward crux move, head up and traverse left across a ledge system. There is a 5.8 move at the end of the traverse, which is a little runout. Continue up the finger crack above to the huge pine tree (note that it is rotting).
Descend via Radcliffe just to climbers' right, or the Uberfall Descent.