Avg: 2.7 from 10 votes
|Type:||Trad, 50 ft (15 m)|
|FA:||1977: Don Perry, Mike Burlingame and Cheyenne Wills|
|Page Views:||3,690 total · 37/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan Chelstowski on Oct 2, 2012 · Updates|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
According to the Dick Williams Guide: Start about 5 feet right of Big Chimney. Diagonal up right to base of obvious off-width crack. Follow the crack to a ledge and the base of a chimney.
Approach: From the start of Baby, scramble up and out left on a grassy ledge for 15 feet to belay on top of the boulder with a tree growing out of it directly below the off-width roof.
Pitch 1: Scramble up ten feet and begin to traverse left under the off-width roof eventually gaining access to the arete. Follow the off-width up to the ledge and base of Big Chimney.
Try to climb it as an off-width, it is harder. But if you are having some trouble, climb it as a layback in the vertical, it looks like it would be much easier