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Routes in b. Jackie and friends

5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+
His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R
Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: 1977: Don Perry, Mike Burlingame and Cheyene Willis
Page Views: 2,510 total, 40/month
Shared By: Ryan Chelstowski on Oct 2, 2012
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Great climb if you want some off-width action in the Gunks!

According to the Dick Williams Guide: Start about 5 feet right of Big Chimney. Diagonal up right to base of obvious off-width crack. Follow the crack to a ledge and the base of a chimney.

Approach: From the start of Baby, scramble up and out left on a grassy ledge for 15 feet to belay on top of the boulder with a tree growing out of it directly below the off-width roof.

Pitch 1: Scramble up ten feet and begin to traverse left under the off-width roof eventually gaining access to the arete. Follow the off-width up to the ledge and base of Big Chimney.

Try to climb it as an off-width, it is harder. But if you are having some trouble, climb it as a layback in the vertical, it looks like it would be much easier

Location

Take the Baby trail from the carriage road. Continue left at the fork in trail. In about 30 feet, this will take you directly below the obvious off-width, Disco Death March.

Protection

G rated, but requires large gear.
Recommended: 2-#6's, 1-#5 as a minimum
Rappel at top of ledge

Photos

David Aguasca!
New York
  5.10
David Aguasca!   New York
  5.10
It's possible to almost entire avoid the undercling traverse by going slightly lower on some small feet and smaller hands. Gets you to the stance below the lip without too much trouble, although it's probably easier for taller folks. Jul 27, 2015
Just some trivia on the first ascent (at least what I remember from it :)

It was Don and Mike's route really.

Don and Mike were looking around for some off width gear to use and I had a couple of #11 Hexs in the car (this was before spring loaded cams), so I was invited along for the adventure.

I remember following and cleaning stacked Hexs (yeah.. real secure)

Don more then likely climbed the route in his work boots.

I think I came up with the name Disco Death March, mostly because of the under cling traverse. Mar 10, 2014
vanishing spy
  5.10d PG13
vanishing spy  
  5.10d PG13
Watch your cams after you clip the anchor and weight the rope. We had our rope walk our cams right up into the void and it turned into a production to retrieve them. In hindsight it may be better to belay the second up from above. Two 6-inch pieces are a minimum but if you have a third you should bring it. Jun 4, 2013
Ryan Chelstowski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Ryan Chelstowski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Put fresh static on the rap anchor on 10/1 when I ran it. Oct 3, 2012
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Fun video! The route looks nice. Oct 3, 2012
Dan Flynn   MA  
vimeo.com/29911701


Get all your beta here.. Oct 3, 2012