Mountain Project Logo

Routes in b. Jackie and friends

5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+
His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R
Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim Kolocotronis and Tom Rosecrans, 1973
Page Views: 2,352 total, 21/month
Shared By: jd4567 on Aug 17, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


29 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb the left crack of a two-crack system past a block that looks terribly loose but isn't, up into a few chimney moves, then right and up to the easily protected overhang (crux). The face climbing above is 5.7 PG. Place directional gear, then traverse left to the Ape Call belay/rap station or right to the Raubenheimer Special tree.

Location

On a face just left of RMC's chimney.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos

MojoMonkey  
 
I thought the upper face was tougher than the listed overhang crux. Or maybe that was mental influence because of the gear? I'm in the same boat as Eriks Rozners above - the gear I had was on the small side and would not be confidence inspiring if this climb is near your limit. Nov 6, 2017
Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.7+ PG13
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  5.7+ PG13
Great climbing all the way through the small overhang. The face above is also fun - thin and exciting, but I found myself way too high over my last gear, which was a 00 C3. May be I missed a placement in all the climbing excitement? If so it is at least PG, if not it was clearly R. Otherwise, it was a great climb, but not a good place to be if the grade is close to your lead limit. The Gunks App got the grade all wrong on this one IMHO. Jun 4, 2017
A bit confused on the grade - The Swain guidebook has this at 5.8, MP says 5.7+, and Gunks App says 5.6? Anybody know whether Gunks App is listing a variation of the traditional line? Apr 18, 2017
JSH

JSH    
I've always known RMC as the stacked blocks to the right (there's a fun move stepping onto the main face, I think).

Tim S. entered RMC, and he wrote it up as what is also described here as the start to Jane (he also noted that you can use the blocks), then a bunch of comments wrote about that loose block, so I left it as is.

The two starts are about equivalent in difficulty. Jane's higher grade comes from the moves above where it crosses and goes up right, towards Raubenheimer's. Jun 20, 2014
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
Always been a bit confused about this. Is the start to jane the same as what is commonly known as the start to r.m.c.? This has the loose flake horn thing before the corner roof thing where you traverse out right? I think the proper start of R.M.C. is to the right, on the easy stacked block feature. Or does jane start more to the left of both? Jun 19, 2014
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
I've finished both ways and it's much better IMHO to go to the 2nd tree. The moves on the on the upper face are thin and exciting. Too bad the route isn't longer. Jun 15, 2014
Paul Shultz
Hudson, Ma
 
Paul Shultz   Hudson, Ma
 
Fun up to the ceiling, and a few moves above the ceiling. I actually used the first tree, maybe 50 feet up, but don't regret it. May 13, 2009