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Routes in b. Jackie and friends
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5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Creature Features T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+ |
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His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R |
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Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
| FA: | Jim Kolocotronis and Tom Rosecrans, 1973 |
| Page Views: | 2,748 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | jd4567 on Aug 17, 2008 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
Climb the left crack of a two-crack system past a block that looks terribly loose but isn't, up into a few chimney moves, then right and up to the easily protected overhang (crux). The face climbing above is 5.7 PG. Place directional gear, then traverse left to the Ape Call belay/rap station or right to the Raubenheimer Special tree.
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