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Routes in b. Jackie and friends

5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+
His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R
Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Krist and Wally Raubenheimer (1958ish)
Page Views: 1,943 total, 17/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Harder if shorter than 5' 9" or so.

P1 - Climb the rounded arete, then up right to a good ledge below a polished, 8-foot high,white face. Get good gear at your feet in the horizontal below the face. If you're tall, go straight up the face (crux) to the good horizontal at the top of the 8' high polished white face, plug in some gear, and pull the small bulge. If you're short, go left to the rounded nose, reach around left for a small crimp and step up. Then reach right to the good horizontal, place some gear, traverse a bit right and pull the small bulge. Continue up the nice face to a decent ledge.

P2 - (Rarely done) Climb straight up on broken rock to a nose on the left. Follow it to the top. Descend via the Radcliff or Uberfall downclimbs.

Variations - I prefer to traverse left from the P1 belay to the P2 belay tree of RMC and continue up the face from there. The traverse is sparsely protected, but very easy. You could also continue up P2 and P3 of Betty.

Location

At a rounded arete, just left of the wide crack of Betty and about 60 feet right and up from the Jackie/Classic face.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. The gear at the crux is bomber, but it's at you feet if you blow the move.

Photos

Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
If you plan to rap off the tree at the top of the first pitch- inspect the slings carefully, and bring extra 1" webbing with you- As of 10/26/2014 they were in dangerously bad condition and need to be replaced (one faded from sunlight, one severely frayed at the knot).

I used up my extra webbing reinforcement a tree on the previous climb(and I thought my friend had already checked the slings, so I didn't bring more), and it was almost dark, so I risked it and survived the rappel- But I wouldn't do that again. Lesson learned, always bring extra webbing when cleaning an anchor if you plan to rap off a tree! Oct 27, 2014
kenr  
Lots of credit to gblauer for leading P1. The crux for taller people is a delicate move on the arete. But for somebody much less than 5'7" with normal reach, the next move after that is much harder than 5.7

For a better P2, I nominate aiming for the nose a bit left of Betty - (see "Left Direct Nose P2 variation" in the Comments under Betty). Jun 3, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Never ever thought I would lead this climb. At 5'2", it's tough for me to reach the really great horizontal above the slick slab. But, somehow, I manage to get my little fingers onto something and then I just pull, clip the pin and go. Oct 15, 2011
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Raubenheimer may or may not be stiff for its grade at 5.7, but it sure was stiff for its grade as a 5.5 when I first did it. My brother Paul and I were ready to break into 5.5 in 72 or so. We decided to do Dennis and Raubenheimer. Paul lost the coin toss (although we didn't know at first how badly he lost) and led Raubenheimer. I then led Dennis. So our first 5.5 was 5.7?

Similarly, and around the same time, I hitchhiked out to Boulder during Easter with my friend Steve Reiefenstuhl. One of the routes we did was Cozyhang on The Dome, rated 5.5 at the time. It's now rated 5.7, and the last crux feels more like 5.9 to me. Jun 3, 2010
vanishing spy
  5.8+ PG13
vanishing spy  
  5.8+ PG13
This route is stiff for the grade, the crux is a blank face moving between horizontals. If you can't pull the move there is a tree directly behind you if you don't need the full value. It's possible to get to the top of the wall in one long pitch. Jun 2, 2010
Mike Caruso
  5.7 PG13
Mike Caruso  
  5.7 PG13
Climbed this long ago and thought it stiff for the 5.6+ Swain's book gave it. I am tall and the crux moves are thin and slippery. Thank God for crystals and nubs. Apr 20, 2008