Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Krist and Wally Raubenheimer (1958ish)
Page Views: 2,305 total · 17/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Harder if shorter than 5' 9" or so.

P1 - Climb the rounded arete, then up right to a good ledge below a polished, 8-foot high,white face. Get good gear at your feet in the horizontal below the face. If you're tall, go straight up the face (crux) to the good horizontal at the top of the 8' high polished white face, plug in some gear, and pull the small bulge. If you're short, go left to the rounded nose, reach around left for a small crimp and step up. Then reach right to the good horizontal, place some gear, traverse a bit right and pull the small bulge. Continue up the nice face to a decent ledge.

P2 - (Rarely done) Climb straight up on broken rock to a nose on the left. Follow it to the top. Descend via the Radcliff or Uberfall downclimbs.

Variations - I prefer to traverse left from the P1 belay to the P2 belay tree of RMC and continue up the face from there. The traverse is sparsely protected, but very easy. You could also continue up P2 and P3 of Betty.

Location

At a rounded arete, just left of the wide crack of Betty and about 60 feet right and up from the Jackie/Classic face.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. The gear at the crux is bomber, but it's at you feet if you blow the move.

Photos