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Routes in b. Jackie and friends

5.10 Top Rope TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
A-Gape T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ape Call T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ape and Essence T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Back Door Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Badcliff T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Belly Roll T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Betty T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Big Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blackout, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Cilley Dicken' T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Classic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Classy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daydream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Denise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dennis T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Disco Death March T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dog Bite City T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Habanero Balls T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V5+ 6C+
His Name is called The Word of God. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A4 R
Into Thin Hair T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Jackie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jane T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jasmine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Matinee T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Bailey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
P38 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Pebbles TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pink Laurel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
RMC T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Radcliffe Descent T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Raubenheimer Special T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roddy T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Slightly Roddey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stirrup Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Word of Mouth T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Gardiner Perry, Mary Perry, and Ann Buffin
Page Views: 6,967 total, 54/month
Shared By: John Peterson on May 28, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Dennis starts just left of Belly Roll (look for a roof about 15' up), just past the Uberfall area.

Climb up and over the roof (crux). Then step left to a short smooth slab and up easier ground to a headwall. Climb a weakness in the wall to a good ledge. Some belay here.

From the ledge, go up and right, past a fixed pin, and up towards an obvious prow. Pass more fixed pins and step right around the corner just below the final vertical section.

Descend via rappel if you can, Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack
During my first time climbing this route, I meandered between the two exits from the upper crux section (P1). My indecision left me above the easy but run out section looking for gear and holds on relatively blank wall. Great little route but getting off track amps up the excitement level. Feb 21, 2017
J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
  5.5
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
  5.5
I actually found the upper cruxes harder and worthy of making this a 3-4 star route (3 distinct cruxes.

I didn't find rope drag an issue, but I tend to extend a lot more than many folks do these days and I was on doubles. I noticed a lot of younger climbers clip everything short, and if you do, on a single rope, I can see rope drag being an issue.

As far as some people calling it PG13. Anything under 5.6 or 5.7 in the Gunks has ledge fall potential if you fall. So everything is PG13, however, the slab has protection just below it, so as long as you placed gear, you aren't hitting anything. The base of the cliff drops off down there, so even an extended runner and a few feet of rope stretch should be a clean fall (aside from the ledge at the base of the slab itself). Mar 10, 2016
Cool, fun start moves and a nice all-around climb at 5.5. Oct 13, 2014
I highly recommend the variation that links up with P2 of Belly Roll. Much better finish than the traditional one. Only problem is that Belly Roll is a popular climb and there may be a lot of traffic if two parties are leaving at the same time. Mar 6, 2012
doligo
  5.5 PG13
doligo  
  5.5 PG13
PG is not for the crux, but for the run-out slab above the crux, IMO. The crux itself is well protected. Nov 1, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I think Dennis is a great climb. It has a fun crux right off the ground, a little slabby section, a stair case, followed by some vertical, all on one pitch! The second pitch is only a "3", but it has wild exposure. All and all a fun climb. I would like to try the 5.9 variation. Apr 5, 2010
Tim Schafstall
  5.5 PG13
Tim Schafstall  
  5.5 PG13
Disagree with Sax. The second pitch is a blast with wonderful exposure if, instead of topping out shortly above the GT ledge, you continue climbing right to merge with P2 of Belly Roll. A fun traverse and step around the exposed bulge are really fun and the gear is excellent.

This is an excellent variation for a newer leader who needs some "exposure to exposure" as it has bomber gear with fun moves and lots of air (for the Gunks). Apr 2, 2008
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.5
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.5
The overhung start sequence is fun, but unfortunately it's the only part of the route that's really worth doing. Sep 29, 2007