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Trad, 120 ft,
Avg: 2.4 from 272
FA: Gardiner Perry, Mary Perry, and Ann Buffin
> b. Jackie & friends
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Dennis starts just left of Belly Roll (look for a roof about 15' up), just past the Uberfall area.
Climb up and over the roof (crux). Then step left to a short smooth slab and up easier ground to a headwall. Climb a weakness in the wall to a good ledge. Some belay here.
From the ledge, go up and right, past a fixed pin, and up towards an obvious prow. Pass more fixed pins and step right around the corner just below the final vertical section.