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Dennis

5.5, Trad, 120 ft,  Avg: 2.4 from 272 votes
FA: Gardiner Perry, Mary Perry, and Ann Buffin
New York > Gunks > Trapps > b. Jackie & friends
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Dennis starts just left of Belly Roll (look for a roof about 15' up), just past the Uberfall area.

Climb up and over the roof (crux). Then step left to a short smooth slab and up easier ground to a headwall. Climb a weakness in the wall to a good ledge. Some belay here.

From the ledge, go up and right, past a fixed pin, and up towards an obvious prow. Pass more fixed pins and step right around the corner just below the final vertical section.

Descend via rappel if you can, Radcliffe, or the Uberfall Descent.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View of the Dennis belay ledge from Jackie rappel
[Hide Photo] View of the Dennis belay ledge from Jackie rappel
Tricia at the start. (photo by Dave Merle)
[Hide Photo] Tricia at the start. (photo by Dave Merle)
Shirley on the initial difficulty.
[Hide Photo] Shirley on the initial difficulty.
Gear anchor at the top of Dennis
[Hide Photo] Gear anchor at the top of Dennis
Pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2
top of P1
[Hide Photo] top of P1
Emma following the easy, but exposed P2 of Dennis
[Hide Photo] Emma following the easy, but exposed P2 of Dennis
Emma following P2 of Dennis. Nice and exposed.
[Hide Photo] Emma following P2 of Dennis. Nice and exposed.
Dave Merle nearing the optional belay.
[Hide Photo] Dave Merle nearing the optional belay.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.5
[Hide Comment] The overhung start sequence is fun, but unfortunately it's the only part of the route that's really worth doing. Sep 29, 2007
Tim Schafstall
  5.5 PG13
[Hide Comment] Disagree with Sax. The second pitch is a blast with wonderful exposure if, instead of topping out shortly above the GT ledge, you continue climbing right to merge with P2 of Belly Roll. A fun traverse and step around the exposed bulge are really fun and the gear is excellent.

This is an excellent variation for a newer leader who needs some "exposure to exposure" as it has bomber gear with fun moves and lots of air (for the Gunks). Apr 2, 2008
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
[Hide Comment] I think Dennis is a great climb. It has a fun crux right off the ground, a little slabby section, a stair case, followed by some vertical, all on one pitch! The second pitch is only a "3", but it has wild exposure. All and all a fun climb. I would like to try the 5.9 variation. Apr 5, 2010
doligo
  5.5 PG13
[Hide Comment] PG is not for the crux, but for the run-out slab above the crux, IMO. The crux itself is well protected. Nov 1, 2010
[Hide Comment] I highly recommend the variation that links up with P2 of Belly Roll. Much better finish than the traditional one. Only problem is that Belly Roll is a popular climb and there may be a lot of traffic if two parties are leaving at the same time. Mar 6, 2012
[Hide Comment] Cool, fun start moves and a nice all-around climb at 5.5. Oct 13, 2014
J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
  5.5
[Hide Comment] I actually found the upper cruxes harder and worthy of making this a 3-4 star route (3 distinct cruxes.

I didn't find rope drag an issue, but I tend to extend a lot more than many folks do these days and I was on doubles. I noticed a lot of younger climbers clip everything short, and if you do, on a single rope, I can see rope drag being an issue.

As far as some people calling it PG13. Anything under 5.6 or 5.7 in the Gunks has ledge fall potential if you fall. So everything is PG13, however, the slab has protection just below it, so as long as you placed gear, you aren't hitting anything. The base of the cliff drops off down there, so even an extended runner and a few feet of rope stretch should be a clean fall (aside from the ledge at the base of the slab itself). Mar 10, 2016
[Hide Comment] During my first time climbing this route, I meandered between the two exits from the upper crux section (P1). My indecision left me above the easy but run out section looking for gear and holds on relatively blank wall. Great little route but getting off track amps up the excitement level. Feb 21, 2017