Easy 5th,
Trad, 25 ft (8 m),
Avg: 3 from 90
votes
FA: Santa Claus
New York
> Gunks
> Trapps
> a2. The Uberfall - right
For most routes near the Uberfall - from
Horseman, past
Jackie, including
Baby,
Son of Easy O,
City Lights and
Maria, all the way to the routes around
Sixish and
Drunkard's Delight, walking off is a good (and sometimes, given crowds, the best) option.
From the top of
Horseman and neighboring routes, wander down and climbers' right back towards the cliff top. Find the stream bed and follow it to the top of
Ken's Crack and
Boston.
From the top of
Ken's Crack and routes further right, follow trails along the clifftop back towards the Uberfall. These trails will lead you to the open area on top of
Ken's Crack and
Boston.
Once you've gotten to the tops of
Ken's Crack and
Boston, you can see the carriage road about 40' below. Next: continue down the streambed to climbers' left and squeeze behind an obvious 5' boulder. Now, have a seat. Scootch left, to a good stance at a
giant horizontal tree root - this feature is how you'll know you're in the right place. Scamper down and left on buckets and ledges, to the carriage road.
The Uberfall descent deposits you just to the left of Trashcan Overhang, scant seconds back to your packs.
You may want to use climbing shoes for the first trip down, but approach shoes are usually fine.
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Decatur, GA
Las Vegas, NV
Poughkeepsie, NY
Second of all, it is worth mentioning that this is not the way down that gave the Uberfall its name, and that if one does go the other way, which was as far as I know the "regular" way for most climbers BITD when everyone walked back from every climb, there is still a choice of whether or not to perform the actual "uberfall," most climbers choosing not to replicate the original path down. Jan 18, 2012
Albany, NY
Between Squiggles and Susie A, below some fractured rock with vertical blast-hole semi-tubes: Diagonal up right to a bent tree trunk, pass above or below that, diagonal up right some more to a ledge. Walk right on the ledge and step up onto obvious big rock. Turn into the face and climb up four to five feet onto another shelf, then scramble/walk straight a short ways to rejoin the other Uberfall route described above.
Actually there's yet another "descent" route with moves yet more interesting (at slightly greater techical difficulty, with less "obvious" exposure) above the modern toilet, between BB route and Eyesore/Harvard. Again, you'll need to first work out the route from the bottom, and learn what it looks like from the top, before you can use it as a descent route. May 11, 2013
San Pedro, CA
Nashville, TN
Bishop, CA
Don't forget to bring long runners, rope drag was HORRIBLE!
4 star classic, don't miss it.
Nashville, TN
Highland Park, NJ