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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Weeping Willie (direct) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Willie's Weep T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Swain and John Thackray, 1986 pitch 1 Jim McCarthy and John Reppy 1967 pitch 2
Page Views: 2,046 total · 17/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Oct 23, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Description

This is a good link up of the first pitch of Immaculate Conception, and the second pitch of Son of Bitchy Virgin.

The start is located at a creaky flake just right of Son of Bitchy Virgin's right-facing corner. Begin by climbing the flake and pulling a short roof to a ledge. Continue straight up the face towards a slung block and belay here (or on gear above).

For a second pitch, climb straight up the face following the best clean holds (trend right; some might find this section a little run out...it gets a PG rating in the Williams guide) before jug-hauling the last bit to the GT ledge. Rap to the ground in two ropes, or to the slung block with one.

Overall a nice (2 star - Williams) route to do in you are in the area.

Protection

Mostly standard gear...saving small stuff (blue and black aliens) for the second pitch. One rap with doubles or two raps with a single.

Photos

doligo
  5.6 PG13
doligo  
  5.6 PG13
Nice climb. There isn't much gear above the roof till the slung flake on P1, but the climbing is easy. P2 is on a serious side of PG13. Small aliens will be helpful - tiny flaring shallow horizontals in couple of spots till you hit the piton up top. Jun 28, 2010
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
Nice underrated climb. Definitely runout on second pitch but probably no harder than 5.5. May 28, 2013
Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
This is a cool climb but "serious side of PG13" as noted above is pretty fair. The placements on the second pitch are quite spaced and you have to hunt for them a bit. If one of them blows you're looking at a pretty major fall. That said, I really enjoyed piecing things together on the second pitch, really nice position and moves.

It did look to me like a blue C4 or equivalent (which I don't carry normally) would have provided some reassurance in the middle of the p1 roof. Not so much to protect the roof as to make up for the fact that you have to go a little ways before you get good gear again. No home for that big piece on the second pitch though!

Consider bringing some cord, both rap anchors could use some TLC. Jun 17, 2015
john2.71
Montclair, NJ
5.4
john2.71   Montclair, NJ
5.4
P1 is 5.4. The route gets 5.6 PG due to the link-up with Son of Bitchy Virgin for P2. Aug 15, 2015
Alec Orenstein
Gallup, NM
 
Alec Orenstein   Gallup, NM
 
We BARELY made it down in one rap from the GT ledge with a 70. Took a little stemming on the tree in the gully to the let of the Mantle Block, but it worked (with stretch). Extend your rap and have the second hold on to one end of the rope to pull before it slips through your device. Jun 5, 2016
Genevieve Lampinen
philadelphia
 
Genevieve Lampinen   philadelphia
 
Really fun lead. If youre on the shorter side I would call P1 a sold 5.6 because pulling the roof isnt straightforward unless you can reach the jugs. Sling the horn before pulling the roof if you're uncomfortable making the move. Jul 31, 2016

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