Avg: 2.3 from 57 votes
|Type:||Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Todd Swain and John Thackray, 1986 pitch 1 Jim McCarthy and John Reppy 1967 pitch 2|
|Page Views:||2,578 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Jeff Mekolites on Oct 23, 2008|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The start is located at a creaky flake just right of Son of Bitchy Virgin's right-facing corner. Begin by climbing the flake and pulling a short roof to a ledge. Continue straight up the face towards a slung block and belay here (or on gear above).
For a second pitch, climb straight up the face following the best clean holds (trend right; some might find this section a little run out...it gets a PG rating in the Williams guide) before jug-hauling the last bit to the GT ledge. Rap to the ground in two ropes, or to the slung block with one.
Overall a nice (2 star - Williams) route to do in you are in the area.