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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Brave Valkyrie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Easy Version T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Seldom Mustard Never Relish T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Weeping Willie (direct) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Ingalls and Vin Hoeman, 1965 |
| Page Views: | 850 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | john2.71 on May 9, 2015 |
| Admins: | RJ B |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
This climb would be a classic if the finish on P2 were clean. It is worthwhile to ascend P1 then either rap, or finish on Willie's Weep. P2 is not recommended unless you have an adventurous heart.
P1 - Climb the gritty, pebbly face, trending right on easy PG terrain, toward a wide vertical crack system. Stay on the face left of the crack, aiming for the right of a small pine tree. After passing the tree, begin traversing left, sometimes diagonally, towards the chunky corner and Willie's Weep P2 belay tree. Heave-ho the jugs up the overhang to the belay ledge. (5.3, 150 ft.)
P2 - (5.4) Step right, moving away from the flakes on Willie's, toward a left facing corner. Climb the corner to the overhang, passing a piton. The route is clean until this point. Straight up the overhang on lichen-covered jugs to a large ledge. Scale the 10 ft lichen wall to the top.
P1 - Climb the gritty, pebbly face, trending right on easy PG terrain, toward a wide vertical crack system. Stay on the face left of the crack, aiming for the right of a small pine tree. After passing the tree, begin traversing left, sometimes diagonally, towards the chunky corner and Willie's Weep P2 belay tree. Heave-ho the jugs up the overhang to the belay ledge. (5.3, 150 ft.)
P2 - (5.4) Step right, moving away from the flakes on Willie's, toward a left facing corner. Climb the corner to the overhang, passing a piton. The route is clean until this point. Straight up the overhang on lichen-covered jugs to a large ledge. Scale the 10 ft lichen wall to the top.
Location
Start a few feet right of Willie's Weep.
Descend by walking to the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst rappel, or rappel from Willie's Weep P2 belay tree.
Descend by walking to the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst rappel, or rappel from Willie's Weep P2 belay tree.
Photos
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