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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Ingalls and Vin Hoeman, 1965
Page Views: 257 total, 8/month
Shared By: john2.71 on May 9, 2015
Admins: JSH

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Description

This climb would be a classic if the finish on P2 were clean. It is worthwhile to ascend P1 then either rap, or finish on Willie's Weep. P2 is not recommended unless you have an adventurous heart.

P1 - Climb the gritty, pebbly face, trending right on easy PG terrain, toward a wide vertical crack system. Stay on the face left of the crack, aiming for the right of a small pine tree. After passing the tree, begin traversing left, sometimes diagonally, towards the chunky corner and Willie's Weep P2 belay tree. Heave-ho the jugs up the overhang to the belay ledge. (5.3, 150 ft.)

P2 - (5.4) Step right, moving away from the flakes on Willie's, toward a left facing corner. Climb the corner to the overhang, passing a piton. The route is clean until this point. Straight up the overhang on lichen-covered jugs to a large ledge. Scale the 10 ft lichen wall to the top.

Location

Start a few feet right of Willie's Weep.

Descend by walking to the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst rappel, or rappel from Willie's Weep P2 belay tree.

Protection

The gear is PG. Since P1 is 150 ft, bring long slings and enough pro.

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