Avg: 1.6 from 34 votes
Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
|Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13|
|Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Willie Crowther and Gardiner Perry, 1958|
|Page Views:||2,320 total, 18/month|
|Shared By:||Taino Grosjean on Apr 2, 2007|
DescriptionJust to the left of Beginner's Delight lies this somewhat obscure route. You rarely see people on it, as you have Asphodel to the left and a plethora of starred routes to the right.
P1: Aim for an obvious left-facing corner below a roof about 50' feet up. Step up and right onto the top of the block, then up to a long ledge. Find some gear, traverse left, and belay at its left end.
P2: Climb the corner, head up and left to another corner, then up to the GT ledge. There is a belay anchor on a tree on the GT ledge.
P3: Finish up the left-facing corner on the left.
ProtectionYou may find the first 40' or so of P1 to be more runout than you'd like, although the roof has good protection (and look for a hidden fixed pin).
P2 & 3: fairly straight-forward climbing, typical Gunks. These two pitches go at a true 5.3, no sand to be found, and protect at around PG; the cruxes of both pitches protect well.
LocationApproximately 50 feet left of Beginner's Delight, atop a ledge with a 3rd/4th class scramble up a ramp to a large tree about 20 feet off the ground. You actually share the 2nd pitch belay ledge with Beginner's Delight; BD is on the right, BL is on the left.
Descent: Rappel down the Beginner's Delight rap stations.