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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Willie Crowther and Gardiner Perry, 1958
Page Views: 2,320 total, 18/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Apr 2, 2007 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

Just to the left of Beginner's Delight lies this somewhat obscure route. You rarely see people on it, as you have Asphodel to the left and a plethora of starred routes to the right.

P1: Aim for an obvious left-facing corner below a roof about 50' feet up. Step up and right onto the top of the block, then up to a long ledge. Find some gear, traverse left, and belay at its left end.

P2: Climb the corner, head up and left to another corner, then up to the GT ledge. There is a belay anchor on a tree on the GT ledge.

P3: Finish up the left-facing corner on the left.

Protection

You may find the first 40' or so of P1 to be more runout than you'd like, although the roof has good protection (and look for a hidden fixed pin).

P2 & 3: fairly straight-forward climbing, typical Gunks. These two pitches go at a true 5.3, no sand to be found, and protect at around PG; the cruxes of both pitches protect well.

Location

Approximately 50 feet left of Beginner's Delight, atop a ledge with a 3rd/4th class scramble up a ramp to a large tree about 20 feet off the ground. You actually share the 2nd pitch belay ledge with Beginner's Delight; BD is on the right, BL is on the left.

Descent: Rappel down the Beginner's Delight rap stations.

Photos

Ben Hoste
Brooklyn, NY
 
Ben Hoste   Brooklyn, NY
 
The description in the Williams is good, I don't see why anyone was confused, the route is clear and easy to follow. I thought the route was easy to protect, but there are short stretches without gear. The crux roof is protected by a pin on the lip that I did not see until I pulled the roof, but you can also protect it nicely before committing. The final pitch is very easy at 5.3 but has nice stemming and is fun. This climb is 5.5, and then only on the first pitch, definitely not 5.6. Oct 6, 2017
Ron Birk
Boston, MA
Ron Birk   Boston, MA
I thought the gray Dick description is very good assuming you remove the word "pine" from the first pitch description. After the overhang and little more you traverse left to the first tree for 35' and the rap station there. From there you continue the next two pitches and all matches perfectly, except the tree is not a pine tree.

There is a pine tree higher up way above where you traverse on the first pitch. Don't go there! You will be off route and it's much harder with no protection.

The gear was all G/PG in my opinion throughout the three pitches and I just started leading Gunks 5.5s and felt very comfortable on all three pitches. Enjoyed this climb a lot. Oct 19, 2014
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
First pitch moves before the roof are not protectable. the holds are positive, but you will hit the ledge if you fall. After the (hard for 5.5.) roof, traverse left on obvious 35 foot ledge all the way to the climbers left. The pine tree that the grey dick book lists as the belay tree does not exist. Perhaps the tree and roots along with the dirt peeled right off the cliff?

The second pitch goes directly straight up through overhang with finger crack. Easy jug haul to gain the GT.

The 3rd pitch is fun , but only about as hard as the uberfall decent route. Watch out for loose blocks in corner below final roof. Also ,the entire underside of the big final pitch roof is actually a huge flake that is almost totally detached. It's incredible how little is holding it there. Not to be taken lightly! It's like the size of a half sheet of plywood and 4-6'' thick! if you dislodge this thing , you will die! You don't have to touch it to do the route. However, I'ts only a matter of time before this thing kills someone. Best to avoid this pitch altogether, or roll the dice! Jun 30, 2014
I think this route climbs best via Dick's V1 variation. A long pitch from the starting ramp to the belay (gear) at the GTL, but a decent line. It's NOT 5.3 however. As others have noted, the initial 40 ft are not adequately protected, and the V1 bit, while mostly clean and aesthetic, will have you making thin face moves above tiny gear (think "smallest cam you carry"). Squarely in 5.5 territory there. P3 is a welcome cruise (5.3) after the work to get there. So is it worthwhile? Yes...if you fancy a 5.5 PG-13 line. Not for the new 5.5 leader however. Sep 10, 2013
JSH

JSH    
I'd agree that the fist pitch is rather ... airy, as far as pro goes. There's none for the first 40ish feet, then once you've made the enjoyable moves out/onto the hanging arete, you have to make several steep moves again before you'll get gear. So, not a route for a 5.5-6 leader.

Link-up/V1: Because I apparently didn't quite have my fill of airing it out (or because I perhaps forgot to turn left}, I continued straight up the face after the ledge on P1. I ended up making a belay just below, and then finishing up the last right-facing corner of, Beginner's P2. The face moves up to that point, between Blueberry and Beginner's P2, were in the 5.6-7 range, only very small gear, and, well, ... just don't fall. However, this is a good, straight link-up option, which would even go in one rope if there's no one on Beginner's. It also sets you up to finish on Beginner's, which is a better P3.

Final note - it really seemed like I was reaching for the same pieces of gear over and over again, so consider doubles in green-alien and green thru yellow camalot sizes. Aug 8, 2010
divnamite
New York, NY
  5.5 PG13
divnamite   New York, NY
  5.5 PG13
Pitch 1 is ok, nothing to write home about. Where is the belay on pitch 1? Right above the roof? Nov 10, 2009
I don't recall the crux being that hard or the gear being that sketch (albeit definitely PG), but this climb was historically seldom done so there was no chalk and route finding was tricky (the book description is vague). It would be easy to get off route. This might change now that it gets a star in the new Williams' Guide.

P3 is boring and has some loose rock. Better just to finish on P3 of Beginner's Delight. Apr 2, 2008