Type: Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches
FA: Gardiner and Mary Perry (1957)
Page Views: 4,412 total · 28/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 11, 2008
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

The first pitch is nice and a good first lead. The second pitch wanders around the face above, and I have never been able to tell exactly where it goes. I prefer P2 of Triple Bulges.

P1 - Climb up the nice face for 10-15 feet (crux) past a couple horizontals to the obvious crack. Climb the crack and/or face to the left for a few feet, then finish up the face either to the left or right of the crack. Rappel from a tree ~15' left.

P2, described by John : From the P1 belay terrace, climb the pebbly face straight up to the next large ledge. Step left about 7 ft. Look up at the short, arcing left facing corner capped by a small overhang. Now you can't possibly get lost. Climb the corner, exit the overhang on thin holds. Trend up and slightly left to the long small overhang with a ring piton (and note the crack in the piton ring). At the piton, climb straight up to the large overhanging ledges. One tricky move at a flake gets you onto the juggy overhangs. Take the path of least resistance, slightly left, through the overhangs on jugs (5.3 G). Manage your rope drag carefully, since the pitch is 150 ft, plus another 30 ft to a good belay tree at the top.

Location

Past Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, at the right edge of the Guide's Wall; Twin Oaks is the next crack right of the striking Finger Locks or Cedar Box crack.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos