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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Gardiner and Mary Perry (1957)
Page Views: 3,049 total · 25/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 11, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

The first pitch is nice and a good first lead. The second pitch wanders around the face above, and I have never been able to tell exactly where it goes. I prefer P2 of Triple Bulges.

P1 - Climb up the nice face for 10-15 feet (crux) past a couple horizontals to the obvious crack. Climb the crack and/or face to the left for a few feet, then finish up the face either to the left or right of the crack. Rappel from a tree ~15' left.

P2, described by John : From the P1 belay terrace, climb the pebbly face straight up to the next large ledge. Step left about 7 ft. Look up at the short, arcing left facing corner capped by a small overhang. Now you can't possibly get lost. Climb the corner, exit the overhang on thin holds. Trend up and slightly left to the long small overhang with a ring piton (and note the crack in the piton ring). At the piton, climb straight up to the large overhanging ledges. One tricky move at a flake gets you onto the juggy overhangs. Take the path of least resistance, slightly left, through the overhangs on jugs (5.3 G). Manage your rope drag carefully, since the pitch is 150 ft, plus another 30 ft to a good belay tree at the top.

Location

Past Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, at the right edge of the Guide's Wall; Twin Oaks is the next crack right of the striking Finger Locks or Cedar Box crack.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos

Valerie Bachinsky
West Sand Lake, NY
 
Valerie Bachinsky   West Sand Lake, NY
 
Left my Native sunglasses at the belay tree on top of Pitch 2 6/15/16. Love those shades. If anyone finds and could drop off at visitor center, hold on to for me, or ship to me; it would be much appreciated and definitely worth a beer or two. Shoot me a message if you find them. Jun 16, 2017
Valerie Bachinsky
West Sand Lake, NY
 
Valerie Bachinsky   West Sand Lake, NY
 
Not a good beginner climb as I saw mentioned somewhere. Second pitch wandery, dirty, and a bit run out. I remember bailing off to Northern Pillar when I tried to lead it years ago. There is a spot where you look up to a dirty wall, the way is not obvious, and any gear possibilities are far away. Happy I went back and stuck it out this time tho. A fun, true route-finding adventure. Jun 16, 2017
Ryan M Moore
Philadelphia, PA
Ryan M Moore   Philadelphia, PA
The ring on the P2 piton is cracked. The only option to back it up is a questionable black tricam (actually, you can't really back it up; you need to choose one or the other) and it's a pretty ridiculous fall if either fails (40 ft the way I protected below, there might have been gear lower that I don't bother to place but you're hitting a ledge regardless). I think this pitch is in the pg13 to R category. Jun 14, 2017
john2.71
Montclair, NJ
5.3
john2.71   Montclair, NJ
5.3
A fun 5.3 with a several thin moves to keep it spicy. This is the best easy line at the guide's wall. The route is obvious. The description Dick Williams even tells you where the pitons are and where to belay.
Thanks for adding a description for P2 - I moved it to the route description. -JSH Sep 29, 2014
rogerbenton  
 
First pitch is great, I could do that for another 150'. Totally "G". Apr 14, 2013
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.3
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.3
Agree that this is a difficult route to figure out the line...it seems to kinda wander a bit up the easy ledges. However, it can be easy to get off route on harder stuff. Oct 13, 2011

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