Avg: 2.4 from 82 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft (18 m)|
|FA:||Mike Hyjek and John Lomont (1963)|
|Page Views:||2,947 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
This one is all about the footwork, baby.
P1 - Climb the thin face (crux) right of the Finger Locks or Cedar Box crack to a small projection just below a bulge. Climb over bulge, then up the nice face past a slightly harder section to a big ledge and pine tree belay.
P2 - Williams describes a second pitch, but it's seldom, if ever, done. If you must go to the top, I would recommend finishing with Triple Bulges.
Rappel from the first pitch from a tree, or bolts above Northern Pillar. From the cliff top, rappel from the top of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress.