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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mike Hyjek and John Lomont (1963)
Page Views: 1,983 total, 17/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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Description

Don't let the name fool you - this is a a nice face route. It's been getting more polished over the years. Sometimes it's hard to find it open because guides work it, and it's a very popular TR/group hangout.

This one is all about the footwork, baby.

P1 - Climb the thin face (crux) right of the Finger Locks or Cedar Box crack to a small projection just below a bulge. Climb over bulge, then up the nice face past a slightly harder section to a big ledge and pine tree belay.

P2 - Williams describes a second pitch, but it's seldom, if ever, done. If you must go to the top, I would recommend finishing with Triple Bulges.

Rappel from the first pitch from a tree, or bolts above Northern Pillar. From the cliff top, rappel from the top of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress.

Location

On the Guides' Wall, just right of the prominent hand crack (Finger Locks or Cedar Box) and a tree.

Protection

Standard rack. There is good gear, but get a good spot since you'll be doing the crux moves before you get the good gear.

Photos

Systematic
  5.8 R
Systematic  
  5.8 R
As with anything, you should carefully evaluate what you're getting yourself into. That said, this is a REALLY fun and satisfying lead. Especially if you enjoy thin face climbing.

I wasn't able to get the C3 placement (and if it's where I think it is, I don't think it would do much anyway). My first placement was a bomber C4 about ~15-20' up. Jun 30, 2016
rogerbenton
  5.8 PG13
rogerbenton  
  5.8 PG13
Overall, a great little pitch. I really enjoyed it.

I give it a "PG-13":
with a small c3 in that first horizontal and a sinker c4 in the next one, and with decent feet to fiddle them in, I don't see this as "R" rated. Get a good spot, yes, but look around before takeoff for the feet, they're there. Apr 14, 2013
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.8+ R
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.8+ R
What a sweet little climb! Leading this climb was suuuuuuch great experience for me. Be careful! Gear is good but there are definitely a few moves you really don't want to fall on. I used the purple cam down low as mentioned above. Nov 5, 2012
doligo  
The crux is easier if you're tall. Gear beta: purple C3 fits perfectly in the first horizontal, from there if you can reach the next horizontal, you're golden. Jun 21, 2010