Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mike Hyjek and John Lomont (1963)
Page Views: 2,259 total · 17/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

67 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details


Don't let the name fool you - this is a a nice face route. It's been getting more polished over the years. Sometimes it's hard to find it open because guides work it, and it's a very popular TR/group hangout.

This one is all about the footwork, baby.

P1 - Climb the thin face (crux) right of the Finger Locks or Cedar Box crack to a small projection just below a bulge. Climb over bulge, then up the nice face past a slightly harder section to a big ledge and pine tree belay.

P2 - Williams describes a second pitch, but it's seldom, if ever, done. If you must go to the top, I would recommend finishing with Triple Bulges.

Rappel from the first pitch from a tree, or bolts above Northern Pillar. From the cliff top, rappel from the top of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress.


On the Guides' Wall, just right of the prominent hand crack (Finger Locks or Cedar Box) and a tree.


Standard rack. There is good gear, but get a good spot since you'll be doing the crux moves before you get the good gear.


The crux is easier if you're tall. Gear beta: purple C3 fits perfectly in the first horizontal, from there if you can reach the next horizontal, you're golden. Jun 21, 2010
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.8+ R
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.8+ R
What a sweet little climb! Leading this climb was suuuuuuch great experience for me. Be careful! Gear is good but there are definitely a few moves you really don't want to fall on. I used the purple cam down low as mentioned above. Nov 5, 2012
  5.8 PG13
  5.8 PG13
Overall, a great little pitch. I really enjoyed it.

I give it a "PG-13":
with a small c3 in that first horizontal and a sinker c4 in the next one, and with decent feet to fiddle them in, I don't see this as "R" rated. Get a good spot, yes, but look around before takeoff for the feet, they're there. Apr 14, 2013
  5.8 R
  5.8 R
As with anything, you should carefully evaluate what you're getting yourself into. That said, this is a REALLY fun and satisfying lead. Especially if you enjoy thin face climbing.

I wasn't able to get the C3 placement (and if it's where I think it is, I don't think it would do much anyway). My first placement was a bomber C4 about ~15-20' up. Jun 30, 2016