Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Mike Hyjek and John Lomont (1963)
Page Views: 2,947 total · 19/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Don't let the name fool you - this is a a nice face route. It's been getting more polished over the years. Sometimes it's hard to find it open because guides work it, and it's a very popular TR/group hangout.

This one is all about the footwork, baby.

P1 - Climb the thin face (crux) right of the Finger Locks or Cedar Box crack to a small projection just below a bulge. Climb over bulge, then up the nice face past a slightly harder section to a big ledge and pine tree belay.

P2 - Williams describes a second pitch, but it's seldom, if ever, done. If you must go to the top, I would recommend finishing with Triple Bulges.

Rappel from the first pitch from a tree, or bolts above Northern Pillar. From the cliff top, rappel from the top of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress.

Location

On the Guides' Wall, just right of the prominent hand crack (Finger Locks or Cedar Box) and a tree.

Protection

Standard rack. There is good gear, but get a good spot since you'll be doing the crux moves before you get the good gear.

Photos