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Peregrine [Suggest Change]
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.3 from 22
votes
Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 260 ft, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Ivan Rezucha and Bill Ravitch, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 1,818 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Ross Fadely on Jan 10, 2008 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Description [Suggest Change]
Always free and always fun.
P1- Climb up grungy face 15 feet right of Hawk or (nicer) climb Hawk to the communal belay. Note - this area was massively affected by rockfall in 2008.
P2- Climb short overhang to face in between the two obvious corners. Climb face and right-hand corner to larger overhang. Go right, around corner and up to next overhang. Make funky and fun moves left around the overhang and continue straight up.
P3- Climb easy crack and face ~20 left of Hawk's large corner. Clean and nice pitch.
P1- Climb up grungy face 15 feet right of Hawk or (nicer) climb Hawk to the communal belay. Note - this area was massively affected by rockfall in 2008.
P2- Climb short overhang to face in between the two obvious corners. Climb face and right-hand corner to larger overhang. Go right, around corner and up to next overhang. Make funky and fun moves left around the overhang and continue straight up.
P3- Climb easy crack and face ~20 left of Hawk's large corner. Clean and nice pitch.
Location [Suggest Change]
At or 15 feet right of Hawk's P1 crack.
Walk 100 feet right to descend the bolted rap line right of Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst.
Walk 100 feet right to descend the bolted rap line right of Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst.
Photos
- No Photos -
Brooklyn, NY
The old Williams guide gives the best description, but I would avoid the book first pitch which has thin to no protection at all and climb the 1st pitch of Hawk to the ledge and move right to set up a belay at a tree just below the right most (and deepest) of the 2 corner left-facing corner systems above. It's also possible to set up a belay at the ledge above P1 of Hawk then angle right into the corner system to start P2 (this is what I did).
The meat of the climb is P2. As described in the Williams book start to move through and around the corner just above where you would for Hawk. There's good pro in the corner before you make the move, then a small cam placement after you finish, but the crux isn't over yet-exciting and super exposed; this is Gunks 5.8 climbing at it's best. With good rope management you can combine P2 & 3. P3 goes through some very scary looking loose blocks stacked on the GT ledge (perhaps a result of the `08 rock fall?). I suppose you could move further right and rejoin Hawk to avoid them. That might make for a more satisfying climb, albeit a bit contrived. Oct 16, 2010
P2 was a bit dirty and wet (despite no recent rain). The first overhang was pumpy and I chickened out on the second because of scanty pro and no obvious chalk or holds. Went right to Hawk.
We traversed right on a ledge from Hawk's P2 belay and rejoined Peregrine for P3. A bit dirty but no surprises. May 20, 2013