PRINT: Rock Climb Peregrine, The Gunks

Peregrine

5.7, Trad, 260 ft (79 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 2.3 from 23 votes
FA: Ivan Rezucha and Bill Ravitch, 1980
New York > Gunks > Trapps > f. The Guides' Wall (…

Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.

The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.

Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.

Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.

If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.

Description

Always free and always fun.

P1- Climb up grungy face 15 feet right of Hawk or (nicer) climb Hawk to the communal belay. Note - this area was massively affected by rockfall in 2008.

P2- Climb short overhang to face in between the two obvious corners. Climb face and right-hand corner to larger overhang. Go right, around corner and up to next overhang. Make funky and fun moves left around the overhang and continue straight up.

P3- Climb easy crack and face ~20 left of Hawk's large corner. Clean and nice pitch.

Location

At or 15 feet right of Hawk's P1 crack.

Walk 100 feet right to descend the bolted rap line right of Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst.

Protection

Standard rack up to 2".

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

losbill

Backed off at overhang coming out of P1 belay. Tried the hang in several spots. No obvious gear above hang and no clear finishing jugs. A lot of lichen over the overhang. The only chalk was far right in the corner. Still no gear above and a dicey move or two to the left to clear overhanging corner as you pull the overhang. With a ledge 10 feet beneath me, I decided that my ankles were worth more than finishing the route. Vectored over and did P2 of Columbia. For those who have climbed Peregrine, am I missing something? Jun 29, 2010

Franz Buzawa
Brooklyn, NY

Excellent climb--well worth it. I just checked the old Swain and Williams guides and they both rate it 5.8 PG. No question, 5.8 or perhaps even 5.8+ climbing given the length of the crux and the pucker factor due to the exposure. No way this is 5.7.

The old Williams guide gives the best description, but I would avoid the book first pitch which has thin to no protection at all and climb the 1st pitch of Hawk to the ledge and move right to set up a belay at a tree just below the right most (and deepest) of the 2 corner left-facing corner systems above. It's also possible to set up a belay at the ledge above P1 of Hawk then angle right into the corner system to start P2 (this is what I did).

The meat of the climb is P2. As described in the Williams book start to move through and around the corner just above where you would for Hawk. There's good pro in the corner before you make the move, then a small cam placement after you finish, but the crux isn't over yet-exciting and super exposed; this is Gunks 5.8 climbing at it's best. With good rope management you can combine P2 & 3. P3 goes through some very scary looking loose blocks stacked on the GT ledge (perhaps a result of the `08 rock fall?). I suppose you could move further right and rejoin Hawk to avoid them. That might make for a more satisfying climb, albeit a bit contrived. Oct 16, 2010

Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO

I liked the P1 start. It's clean but not well-protected. I think we got in a total of 3 pieces.

P2 was a bit dirty and wet (despite no recent rain). The first overhang was pumpy and I chickened out on the second because of scanty pro and no obvious chalk or holds. Went right to Hawk.

We traversed right on a ledge from Hawk's P2 belay and rejoined Peregrine for P3. A bit dirty but no surprises. May 20, 2013

Gunkiemike

There's still unstable rock above this route. It looks like a chunk came down within the last couple weeks. Dec 15, 2015

SethG

It's interesting to read all of these comments. Everyone has a different opinion. I climbed the first two pitches of Peregrine in one lead a few days ago. My verdict: worth doing once.

The first pitch was clean enough but had very little gear. I was led to believe it would be 5.5 from the Trapps App but I thought a few moves right off the ground were harder than that.

The second pitch was fairly graded at 5.7 in my opinion. I thought the crux was at the first overhang. I had good gear just under the roof and I initially went left before changing course and going to the right through the roof. I found the gear to be good enough for the traverse around the corner and for the interesting moves up and left around the next obstacle above.

Lots of loose crap on the GT Ledge, so be careful.

We took the App's advice and finished up P3 of Hawk, to avoid the stacks of loose blocks to the left. Oct 25, 2018