Avg: 2.1 from 134 votes
|Type:||Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Hans Krauss and Susanne Simon (1941)|
|Page Views:||8,588 total · 53/month|
|Shared By:||Taino Grosjean on Apr 2, 2007|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P2 goes up the face between the two bushes you'll see above, to another tree with a (currently blue webbing, brand new, with a steel rap ring)) rap station.
P3 is the money pitch, and the reason this route gets a 5.4 rating -- climb the dihedral above to just under the big roof. Escape right to get to the very top of the cliff (uninspired class 3 terrain) or escape left through a horizontal squeeze to reach the top of Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst.
Rappelling off Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst is the best way down -- two bolted rap stations, or one rappel with doubles.