Type: Trad, 220 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Hans Krauss and Susanne Simon (1941)
Page Views: 8,588 total · 53/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Apr 2, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

The first route to be climbed in the Trapps, this is a popular beginner's route. The first pitch is often taken up by guides and their clients (it's on the Guide's Wall), but there are a couple variations to the first pitch so you can generally get around. The three pitches include three completely different climbing styles: the first pitch is facey and balancy, the second pitch is jug-bashing, and the last pitch is a classic Gunks dihedral.

Location

The original P1 of Northern Pillar went up the gully just to the right of the huge, orange Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress, then up the clean face above approximately 20 feet to the right on the large ledge. Some people still do it that way, but 1) there's not much gear, 2) you're in the rappel line, and 3) it goes at a true 5.1. Most people now-a-days go up the medium-angle face just to the right of the big tree, angling up and right at the top. Anchor either there, or walk right to the big pine tree and rappel station.

P2 goes up the face between the two bushes you'll see above, to another tree with a (currently blue webbing, brand new, with a steel rap ring)) rap station.

P3 is the money pitch, and the reason this route gets a 5.4 rating -- climb the dihedral above to just under the big roof. Escape right to get to the very top of the cliff (uninspired class 3 terrain) or escape left through a horizontal squeeze to reach the top of Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst.

Rappelling off Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst is the best way down -- two bolted rap stations, or one rappel with doubles.

Protection

Protection is generally more than adequate, with the exception of the start of P2: there's very little gear for the first 15-20 feet. The climbing, however, is fairly easy. There are rap slings at the top of the first and second pitches; the very top rap sling is very manky and not in a good place -- people usually end up using the Madame G rappel instead.

Photos