Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy and Dave Craft, 1958
Page Views: 8,562 total · 61/month
Shared By: JSH on Sep 2, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

187 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 2019 Details


Snooky's is a lovely face climb up the obvious vertical thin seam and crack between Beginner's Delight and Minty. The good news is that the climbing is continuous and fun. The bad news is that it's directly in a rappel line that is sometimes used by neighboring routes - it's not uncommon for newer parties, with less experience in rappelling and/or etiquette, to send ropes and pebbles down without warning. Or to insist/assume that you will wait to finish your lead until all four of them have passed. But I digress ...

The less-climbed second pitch goes up a shallow left-facing corner above the belay bolts to a rooflet, under which you traverse left. Up a steep face with some reachy moves, then up and right following the path of least resistance to the GT ledge and another bolted anchor.

The quite-less-climbed third pitch, while short, is fun and exciting: on the GT ledge, walk left to the base of a left-facing corner. Climb up the corner underneath the roof, and escape right, continuing on to the cliff top.

Descent: from the clifftop, use a tree anchor to get to the GT ledge, between this route and Minty. From the GT, there are 2 two-bolt anchors: at the GT, and mid-cliff at the top of first pitch.


Start at a thin crack in a cove of trees 50' right of Beginner's Delight.


P1: Mostly smaller nuts and/or cams. Consider zipper potential, and possible groundfall potential from the low crux (a #3 BD stopper works well).

P2 and P3: standard rack.


Don't cheat yourself on this climb by rapping after P1. Although not done as often (and even less now that there bolts atop P1), P2 and P3 are good fun. Apr 2, 2008
Spiro Spiro
Spiro Spiro  
great climb, second pitch wandered alittle, be aware of rope drag. May 10, 2008
  5.8 PG13
  5.8 PG13
I thought P2 was more 5.7, but it was still just as fun as P1. P3 is a one-move wonder (typical Gunks hand traverse under a roof), that may be worth doing if that's your thing. The rest of P3 is bland. Sep 4, 2008
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
I agree; I definitely think P1 offered more challenging climbing and gear placement than P2, but the entire route is worth doing! Sep 1, 2009
I have always found pitch one to be a fun very straight forward climb with easy climbing and gear. I always find pitch 2 more involved and more challenging. I always do pitch one with just nuts as it is good practice. Sep 2, 2009
There are no longer rap rings above Snooky's on GTL or on top. Rappel either from the top of Beginners Delight or walk to Madame G's chains. Jun 28, 2010
Steve Moulding
New York
Steve Moulding   New York
Nice climb, no problems. Seemed more like 5.7+. Gets very steep before the GT ledge but the holds are good. Jun 7, 2012
Montreal, QC
Luc-514   Montreal, QC  
first pitch is sweet, sustained and PG May 28, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
P1 is a fun climb, the crack eats nuts. P2 is thoughtful and I felt a bit reachy (until you find the hidden hand). P3 was just easy peasy fun. ONce at the top, to the climber's left is a tree with rings slings. Two 60's will get you to a ledge with simple and easy walkoff. I did not find P1 PG. I was able to put three small nuts in through the crux. Aug 10, 2014
James Donigan
James Donigan   Brooklyn
didn't see it on here but p1 linked with p2 is possible with a single 60m and makes for a nice long pitch. be mindful to extend some placements and drag shouldn't be an issue. great climb! Nov 21, 2016
brooklyn, ny
Danny   brooklyn, ny
Linking P1 into P2 was blissful perfect climbing over immaculate stone. Even the wet seepage and puddles at the p2 traverse couldn't faze me. Great way to end the day. Four stars! Sep 28, 2018