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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy and Dave Craft, 1958
Page Views: 7,634 total, 61/month
Shared By: JSH on Sep 2, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


167 Opinions

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Description

Snooky's is a lovely face climb up the obvious vertical thin seam and crack between Beginner's Delight and Minty. The good news is that the climbing is continuous and fun. The bad news is that it's directly in the rappel line for both Beginner's Delight and Minty - it's not uncommon for newer parties, with less experience in rappelling and/or etiquette, to send ropes and pebbles down without warning. Or to insist/assume that you will wait to finish your lead until all four of them have passed. But I digress ...

The less-climbed second pitch goes up a shallow left-facing corner above the belay bolts to a rooflet, under which you traverse left. Up a steep face with some reachy moves, then up and right following the path of least resistance to the GT ledge.

The quite-less-climbed third pitch, while short, is fun and exciting: on the GT ledge, walk left to the base of a left-facing corner. Climb up the corner underneath the roof, and escape right, continuing on to the cliff top.

Descent: from the clifftop, use a tree anchor to get to the GT ledge, between this route and Minty. From the GT, there are 2 two-bolt anchors: at the GT, and mid-cliff at the top of first pitch.

Location

Start at a thin crack in a cove of trees 50' right of Beginner's Delight.

Protection

P1: Mostly smaller nuts and/or cams. Consider zipper potential, and possible groundfall potential from the low crux (a #3 BD stopper works well).

P2 and P3: standard rack.

jdonigan
Brooklyn
 
jdonigan   Brooklyn
 
didn't see it on here but p1 linked with p2 is possible with a single 60m and makes for a nice long pitch. be mindful to extend some placements and drag shouldn't be an issue. great climb! Nov 21, 2016
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
P1 is a fun climb, the crack eats nuts. P2 is thoughtful and I felt a bit reachy (until you find the hidden hand). P3 was just easy peasy fun. ONce at the top, to the climber's left is a tree with rings slings. Two 60's will get you to a ledge with simple and easy walkoff. I did not find P1 PG. I was able to put three small nuts in through the crux. Aug 10, 2014
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
 
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
 
first pitch is sweet, sustained and PG May 28, 2014
Steve Moulding
New York
  5.7+
Steve Moulding   New York
  5.7+
Nice climb, no problems. Seemed more like 5.7+. Gets very steep before the GT ledge but the holds are good. Jun 7, 2012
doligo  
There are no longer rap rings above Snooky's on GTL or on top. Rappel either from the top of Beginners Delight or walk to Madame G's chains. Jun 28, 2010
I have always found pitch one to be a fun very straight forward climb with easy climbing and gear. I always find pitch 2 more involved and more challenging. I always do pitch one with just nuts as it is good practice. Sep 2, 2009
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.8-
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.8-
I agree; I definitely think P1 offered more challenging climbing and gear placement than P2, but the entire route is worth doing! Sep 1, 2009
GMBurns
  5.8 PG13
GMBurns  
  5.8 PG13
I thought P2 was more 5.7, but it was still just as fun as P1. P3 is a one-move wonder (typical Gunks hand traverse under a roof), that may be worth doing if that's your thing. The rest of P3 is bland. Sep 4, 2008
Spiro
  5.8-
Spiro  
  5.8-
great climb, second pitch wandered alittle, be aware of rope drag. May 10, 2008
Don't cheat yourself on this climb by rapping after P1. Although not done as often (and even less now that there bolts atop P1), P2 and P3 are good fun. Apr 2, 2008