Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy and Dave Craft, 1958
Page Views: 9,771 total · 62/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Sep 2, 2007
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Snooky's is a lovely face climb up the obvious vertical thin seam and crack between Beginner's Delight and Minty. The good news is that the climbing is continuous and fun. The bad news is that it's directly in a rappel line that is sometimes used by neighboring routes - it's not uncommon for newer parties, with less experience in rappelling and/or etiquette, to send ropes and pebbles down without warning. Or to insist/assume that you will wait to finish your lead until all four of them have passed. But I digress ...

The less-climbed second pitch goes up a shallow left-facing corner above the belay bolts to a rooflet, under which you traverse left. Up a steep face with some reachy moves, then up and right following the path of least resistance to the GT ledge and another bolted anchor.

The quite-less-climbed third pitch, while short, is fun and exciting: on the GT ledge, walk left to the base of a left-facing corner. Climb up the corner underneath the roof, and escape right, continuing on to the cliff top.

Descent: from the clifftop, use a tree anchor to get to the GT ledge, between this route and Minty. From the GT, there are 2 two-bolt anchors: at the GT, and mid-cliff at the top of first pitch.

Location

Start at a thin crack in a cove of trees 50' right of Beginner's Delight.

Protection

P1: Mostly smaller nuts and/or cams. Consider zipper potential, and possible groundfall potential from the low crux (a #3 BD stopper works well).

P2 and P3: standard rack.

Photos