Avg: 3.7 from 785 votes
|Type:||Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Hans Kraus, Harry Snyder, 1943|
|Page Views:||51,519 total · 250/month|
|Shared By:||Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006|
|Admins:||Morgan Patterson, RJ B|
P1: Follow the thin crack to the tree. 5.4, 50'.
P2: Traverse right into a steep left-facing dihedral, with jugs and jams. At the top, traverse right and belay on a small stance at a horizontal crack. You'll want some hand-size cams for the belay. 5.6, 80'.
P3: Follow the chalk through multiple overhangs on huge jugs and steep terrain. Near the top, angle right through the final overhang and belay at bolts. 5.6, 80'.
You can combine P1/P2 or P2/P3. The best combination is P2/P3, because you'll skip the semi-hanging belay. Bring lots of long slings - both the climbing and the protection wander.
Descent: Rap twice down the Northern Pillar side of the buttress, from sets of bolts with a single 60m (or one long mostly-free rappel with 2x60m). The top bolts are somewhat hidden: peek around a large boulder on climber's right to find them. From the clifftop and other nearby routes, you'll need to scramble back down to the top of the buttress proper, then look for the bolts.
Pre-bolts, climbers had to rappel from the tree at the corner of the buttress - both getting on rappel, and the free-hanging rappel itself, were rites of passage for newer climbers.
To start the route, come around the left toe of the buttress and start atop some boulders below a thin-crack system leading to a large oak tree.