Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy and Tim Mutch, 1954
Page Views: 2,105 total · 13/month
Shared By: Adam Catalano on Apr 3, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details


This is a good route to try on a busy weekend day when all the popular routes have waiting lines.

Start 150' right of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress at two short left-facing corners capped at 10' by an overhang. This is 25' left of Bitchy Virgin, about a 10-minute walk from Uberfall.

P1: Starts with a little overhang 10' up (big cam). From there, head for the left-facing corner, then up a runout face and generally left to a belay ledge. 5.5, 90'.

Variation: after the left-facing corner, meander right to belay on a ledge, aiming for the second pitch of Bitchy Virgin which climbs the pretty face above at 5.6.

P2: Negotiate around right-facing flakes to the GT Ledge. 5.5, 90'.

P3: 30' and not worth it.

This climb isn't done all that often, so it has some grass on the bigger ledges and lichen here and there. Some flakes are a bit thin, so climb gently.


Can be a bit runout in sections. I placed mostly cams in horizontals and avoided placing pro behind flakes. Best to have two ropes to rappel from the GT ledge; there are sub-optimal intermediate anchors.


Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
Decent route if you're looking for a little adventure feel. Kind of dirty, no chalk highway, no fixed pro, tenuous flakes. Aside from first 10', climb is very much in your favor (either straight up or less than vertical). Good to try on a busy weekend day when all the popular routes have waiting lines. Apr 3, 2006
New York, NY
divnamite   New York, NY
Link both pitches together. Oct 11, 2010
Montclair, NJ
john2.71   Montclair, NJ
P1: Really fun moves on highly textured PG terrain. Don't stray right -- that's another route. Head more or less straight for the small cedar tree described by Dick Williams.

P3: Either diagonal left out onto the jugs and climb the outside face to the top, OR climb the crack in the obvious inside corner to the top. Both go at 5.5- G, and both give you about 20ft of clean rock followed by easy scrambling to find a solid belay tree. Sep 19, 2014
The start is either of 2 left facing corners. The one on the left is easier. The one on the right takes you to a dirty, grassy ledge to mantle up on with nothing really useful to hold onto. 1st pitch had some messy grassy ledges, and a 30-40 foot runout. Not hard climbing, but not recommended for a leader not solid at 5.5.
1st pitch belay ledge Cedar Tree had rap slings & rings on it. WTF? It's basically a bush. I wouldn't want to rap on it!
At the GT ledge, there was no anchor, I traversed right and rapped off of Son of Bitchy Virgin.
Not recommended. I found the climbing uninteresting, dirty and runout. Sep 21, 2014