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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy and Tim Mutch, 1954
Page Views: 1,952 total, 14/month
Shared By: Adam Catalano on Apr 3, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

This is a good route to try on a busy weekend day when all the popular routes have waiting lines.

Start 150' right of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress at two short left-facing corners capped at 10' by an overhang. This is 25' left of Bitchy Virgin, about a 10-minute walk from Uberfall.

P1: Starts with a little overhang 10' up (big cam). From there, head for the left-facing corner, then up a runout face and generally left to a belay ledge. 5.5, 90'.

Variation: after the left-facing corner, meander right to belay on a ledge, aiming for the second pitch of Bitchy Virgin which climbs the pretty face above at 5.6.

P2: Negotiate around right-facing flakes to the GT Ledge. 5.5, 90'.

P3: 30' and not worth it.

This climb isn't done all that often, so it has some grass on the bigger ledges and lichen here and there. Some flakes are a bit thin, so climb gently.

Protection

Can be a bit runout in sections. I placed mostly cams in horizontals and avoided placing pro behind flakes. Best to have two ropes to rappel from the GT ledge; there are sub-optimal intermediate anchors.

Photos

The start is either of 2 left facing corners. The one on the left is easier. The one on the right takes you to a dirty, grassy ledge to mantle up on with nothing really useful to hold onto. 1st pitch had some messy grassy ledges, and a 30-40 foot runout. Not hard climbing, but not recommended for a leader not solid at 5.5.
1st pitch belay ledge Cedar Tree had rap slings & rings on it. WTF? It's basically a bush. I wouldn't want to rap on it!
At the GT ledge, there was no anchor, I traversed right and rapped off of Son of Bitchy Virgin.
Not recommended. I found the climbing uninteresting, dirty and runout. Sep 21, 2014
john2.71
Montclair, NJ
5.5
john2.71   Montclair, NJ
5.5
P1: Really fun moves on highly textured PG terrain. Don't stray right -- that's another route. Head more or less straight for the small cedar tree described by Dick Williams.

P3: Either diagonal left out onto the jugs and climb the outside face to the top, OR climb the crack in the obvious inside corner to the top. Both go at 5.5- G, and both give you about 20ft of clean rock followed by easy scrambling to find a solid belay tree. Sep 19, 2014
divnamite
New York, NY
  5.5
divnamite   New York, NY
  5.5
Link both pitches together. Oct 11, 2010
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
 
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
 
Decent route if you're looking for a little adventure feel. Kind of dirty, no chalk highway, no fixed pro, tenuous flakes. Aside from first 10', climb is very much in your favor (either straight up or less than vertical). Good to try on a busy weekend day when all the popular routes have waiting lines. Apr 3, 2006