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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Roy Kligfield, Dave Ingalls and Jim Driscoll (1969). FFA Joe Kelsey (1969)
Page Views: 3,747 total, 32/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 11, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

The first pitch is an excellent alternate P1 for Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst if you are up to leading 5.8.

P1 - Climb the obvious curving crack and face past a bulge (harder than it looks), then up to a ledge with a tree. Either belay at the tree to TR P1 or continue onto P2 or move right on the ledge to continue up Madame G's. 5.8 G

P2 - Climb straight up the face to a pink and white left-facing corner. Climb the corner past old pins (there as of 2005) to another stance. Work past the bulge (crux), then move left around a corner. Continue up the corner to the GT ledge. 5.9 PG

Location

At a curving crack 15 feet right of Southern Pillar and 20 feet left of the blocky start that marks P1 of Madame G's.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos

Bob Johnson
Philadelphia, PA
 
Bob Johnson   Philadelphia, PA
 
The pin protecting the crux on P2 has been replaced! It is also possible to back it up with a small nut. It's not the most bomber placement, but it takes the edge off relying solely on the pin. The sequence at the pin is pretty fun. P2 is really a hidden gem! P3 looks like it doesn't get climbed too often. It's somewhat dirty, loose and feels way more 5.9ish than P2. Williams lists this as a 5.7 direct variation to Southern Pillar - Yikes! Oct 23, 2017
Kurt G.
Reading, PA
  5.7+
Kurt G.   Reading, PA
  5.7+
I can only attest to P1 as we used this to start Madame G's but i felt it was a good, short pitch (even though i didnt make short work of it). the loose block felt fine to me but i ran into trouble once the crack turned vertical again. i had trouble finding solid gear to pull what i thought was the crux. still i thought it was a fun pitch Oct 17, 2017
Brian Shaffer
  5.8- PG13
Brian Shaffer  
  5.8- PG13
The pins on the second pitch are not the best and protect a ledge fall at the technical 5.7 crux.

P2 = fun for an established 5.8 leader. Some comments re: protection here seem to be specific to P1. Sep 23, 2016
Systematic
  5.8
Systematic  
  5.8
Well protected and really fun. The P1 crux is beta dependent. Nov 8, 2015
Josh Smethers
Malvern, pa
  5.7+
Josh Smethers   Malvern, pa
  5.7+
The crux on this climb was a little awkward to get your body position right and felt closer to a hard 5.7 after doing City Lights. I found decent pro up to the crux, which really climbed like a 5.6. I thought it was a great lead for testing the ability to move from 5.7 to 5.8. Apr 13, 2014
gcap
Tuxedo, NY
gcap   Tuxedo, NY
I only did P1, which was nice. As for the rating though, I don't think it's worthy of a Gunks 5.8. Compared with Raunchy (5.8, a few climbs to the right) - no comparison in difficulty. Columbia P1 is maybe a 5.7 G. Tons of pro. Oct 20, 2013
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
  5.8
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
  5.8
Second pitch is pretty heady for 5.7 at the crux between the two rusty pins followed by pretty pumpy and very fun jugs. Very underrated climb. May 28, 2013
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.8
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.8
Great first pitch, and the 2nd pitch becomes forgettable after about 40 or 50 ft. of climbing. The rock quality deteriorates rather quickly making the gear drastically less ideal the higher you climb. Be careful, too, as there are some large, loose blocks/flakes around. Apr 8, 2013
Jake D.
Northeast
Jake D.   Northeast
I dunno, I would call it .8 first pitch and still PG. I found it really fiddly at the crux. block is good though, i yarded off that thing. Sep 20, 2011
Ross Fadely
  5.8-
Ross Fadely  
  5.8-
P1 = short but good, barely 8-
P2 = interesting 7 to relaxed climbing Jul 10, 2011
P1 is cool and P2 is great at that level - with a definitely _not_ 5.7 crux; PG indeed. The finish is not well defined. Jun 20, 2011
losbill
  5.8
losbill  
  5.8
Can anyone comment upon and/or add to the route description variation or variations to pitch 2, either before or after arching overhang, that brings you out on to the face to the right? Twice recently I have taken a look out on the face once above the overhanging bit. Didn't step out since it looked a bit stiff for my seconds at the time. Mar 5, 2011
doligo
  5.8-
doligo  
  5.8-
Agree with Seth - P2 is awesome. The crux is between two pins. After that, it's a sustained but pleasant jughaul. Instead of diagonaling right to Madame G's rings, I went straight up the left-facing corner to the GT ledge just under a big roof. My partner finished on the overhang - really nice short pitch, just a tiny bit dirty. I think this is the 5.9- part. This corner roof needs more traffic. Nov 15, 2010
SethG
 
SethG  
 
I went back to this climb and did the second pitch and I have a few more comments:

1. The loose block on pitch one (that I mentioned in June) probably isn't coming out; my partner thought it was no big deal. I still wouldn't place any gear behind it.

2. Pitch two is great! It is not a 5.9. Swain calls it 5.9-, but Williams calls it 5.7. I think it is a sustained, pumpy 5.7. The crux technical moves are the initial ones past the pins, and then it has a long overhanging jugfest similar to but longer than the ones on Strictly's and Son of Easy O P2. A hidden gem, really, although once the angle eases off the last bit of the pitch is less fun and kind of dirty. Nov 14, 2010
doligo
  5.8-
doligo  
  5.8-
Agree with Seth - totally G. I plugged so much gear in anticipation of PG, it was ridiculous. I only did P1 - soft .8 Aug 9, 2010
SethG
 
SethG  
 
The first pitch of this route is a lot of fun. It is also totally G; I don't know why Dick gives it a PG in his guide; I placed so much gear on this short pitch! But watch out for the loose block right before the crux. I have posted a photo with the block indicated. Jun 21, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
The first pitch looks really easy from the ground. As such, I jumped on it. It's reasonably straight forward, then you hit the crux. The crux is more difficult than it looks, but, very doable. Nice alternative to the first pitch of Madame G's.

P2 is very fun as well. Aug 12, 2009