Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Roy Kligfield, Dave Ingalls and Jim Driscoll (1969). FFA Joe Kelsey (1969)
Page Views: 5,225 total · 32/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 11, 2008 · Updates
Admins: RJ B, Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

The first pitch is an excellent alternate P1 for Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst on an uncrowded day, if you are up to leading 5.8.

P1 - Climb the obvious curving crack and face past a bulge (harder than it looks), then up to a ledge with a tree. Either belay at the tree to TR P1 or continue onto P2 or move right on the ledge to continue up Madame G's. 5.8 G

P2 - Climb straight up the face to a pink and white left-facing corner. Climb the corner past old pins (one was replaced in 2017) to another stance. Work past the bulge (crux), then move left around a corner. Continue up the corner to the GT ledge. 5.9 PG

P3 - At the GT ledge, belay at or near the overhanging corner. Move up the corner to the roof above. Move up and around the roof into another corner above and follow this to the top of cliff. Belay off of a sturdy pine tree at the cliff top. 5.9 G

Descent - From cliff top (top of P3), walk climber's right to the Madame G rappel station. 

Location

At a curving crack 15 feet right of Southern Pillar and 20 feet left of the blocky start that marks P1 of Madame G's.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos