Avg: 2.5 from 120 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Roy Kligfield, Dave Ingalls and Jim Driscoll (1969). FFA Joe Kelsey (1969)|
|Page Views:||5,225 total · 32/month|
|Shared By:||Tim Schafstall on Apr 11, 2008 · Updates|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The first pitch is an excellent alternate P1 for Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst on an uncrowded day, if you are up to leading 5.8.
P1 - Climb the obvious curving crack and face past a bulge (harder than it looks), then up to a ledge with a tree. Either belay at the tree to TR P1 or continue onto P2 or move right on the ledge to continue up Madame G's. 5.8 G
P2 - Climb straight up the face to a pink and white left-facing corner. Climb the corner past old pins (one was replaced in 2017) to another stance. Work past the bulge (crux), then move left around a corner. Continue up the corner to the GT ledge. 5.9 PG
P3 - At the GT ledge, belay at or near the overhanging corner. Move up the corner to the roof above. Move up and around the roof into another corner above and follow this to the top of cliff. Belay off of a sturdy pine tree at the cliff top. 5.9 G
Descent - From cliff top (top of P3), walk climber's right to the Madame G rappel station.