Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Roy Kligfield, Dave Ingalls and Jim Driscoll (1969). FFA Joe Kelsey (1969)
Page Views: 4,234 total · 32/month
Shared By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 11, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


100 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details

Description

The first pitch is an excellent alternate P1 for Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst on an uncrowded day, if you are up to leading 5.8.

P1 - Climb the obvious curving crack and face past a bulge (harder than it looks), then up to a ledge with a tree. Either belay at the tree to TR P1 or continue onto P2 or move right on the ledge to continue up Madame G's. 5.8 G

P2 - Climb straight up the face to a pink and white left-facing corner. Climb the corner past old pins (one was replaced in 2017) to another stance. Work past the bulge (crux), then move left around a corner. Continue up the corner to the GT ledge. 5.9 PG

Location

At a curving crack 15 feet right of Southern Pillar and 20 feet left of the blocky start that marks P1 of Madame G's.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos

gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
The first pitch looks really easy from the ground. As such, I jumped on it. It's reasonably straight forward, then you hit the crux. The crux is more difficult than it looks, but, very doable. Nice alternative to the first pitch of Madame G's.

P2 is very fun as well. Aug 12, 2009
SethG
 
SethG  
 
I went back to this climb and did the second pitch and I have a few more comments:

1. The loose block on pitch one (that I mentioned in June) probably isn't coming out; my partner thought it was no big deal. I still wouldn't place any gear behind it.

2. Pitch two is great! It is not a 5.9. Swain calls it 5.9-, but Williams calls it 5.7. I think it is a sustained, pumpy 5.7. The crux technical moves are the initial ones past the pins, and then it has a long overhanging jugfest similar to but longer than the ones on Strictly's and Son of Easy O P2. A hidden gem, really, although once the angle eases off the last bit of the pitch is less fun and kind of dirty. Nov 14, 2010
doligo
  5.8-
doligo  
  5.8-
Agree with Seth - P2 is awesome. The crux is between two pins. After that, it's a sustained but pleasant jughaul. Instead of diagonaling right to Madame G's rings, I went straight up the left-facing corner to the GT ledge just under a big roof. My partner finished on the overhang - really nice short pitch, just a tiny bit dirty. I think this is the 5.9- part. This corner roof needs more traffic. Nov 15, 2010
losbill
  5.8
losbill  
  5.8
Can anyone comment upon and/or add to the route description variation or variations to pitch 2, either before or after arching overhang, that brings you out on to the face to the right? Twice recently I have taken a look out on the face once above the overhanging bit. Didn't step out since it looked a bit stiff for my seconds at the time. Mar 5, 2011
P1 is cool and P2 is great at that level - with a definitely _not_ 5.7 crux; PG indeed. The finish is not well defined. Jun 20, 2011
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
  5.8
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
  5.8
Great first pitch, and the 2nd pitch becomes forgettable after about 40 or 50 ft. of climbing. The rock quality deteriorates rather quickly making the gear drastically less ideal the higher you climb. Be careful, too, as there are some large, loose blocks/flakes around. Apr 8, 2013
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
  5.8
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
  5.8
Second pitch is pretty heady for 5.7 at the crux between the two rusty pins followed by pretty pumpy and very fun jugs. Very underrated climb. May 28, 2013
gcap
Tuxedo, NY
gcap   Tuxedo, NY
I only did P1, which was nice. As for the rating though, I don't think it's worthy of a Gunks 5.8. Compared with Raunchy (5.8, a few climbs to the right) - no comparison in difficulty. Columbia P1 is maybe a 5.7 G. Tons of pro. Oct 20, 2013
Josh Smethers
Malvern, pa
  5.7+
Josh Smethers   Malvern, pa
  5.7+
The crux on this climb was a little awkward to get your body position right and felt closer to a hard 5.7 after doing City Lights. I found decent pro up to the crux, which really climbed like a 5.6. I thought it was a great lead for testing the ability to move from 5.7 to 5.8. Apr 13, 2014
Kurt G.
Reading, PA
  5.7+
Kurt G.   Reading, PA
  5.7+
I can only attest to P1 as we used this to start Madame G's but i felt it was a good, short pitch (even though i didnt make short work of it). the loose block felt fine to me but i ran into trouble once the crack turned vertical again. i had trouble finding solid gear to pull what i thought was the crux. still i thought it was a fun pitch Oct 17, 2017
Bob Johnson
Philadelphia, PA
 
Bob Johnson   Philadelphia, PA
 
The pin protecting the crux on P2 has been replaced! It is also possible to back it up with a small nut. It's not the most bomber placement, but it takes the edge off relying solely on the pin. The sequence at the pin is pretty fun. P2 is really a hidden gem!

P3 looks like it doesn't get climbed too often. It's somewhat dirty, loose and feels way more 5.9ish than P2. Williams lists this as a 5.7 direct variation to Southern Pillar - Yikes! Oct 23, 2017
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.8
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.8
What's up with people leading p. 1 of this into Madame G? Stop it! You're basically blocking two routes: (1) people who want to climb Columbia skip the stiff opening move and (2) you know you're gonna get pissy with anyone who passes you on Madame G regular. May 23, 2018
Kurt G.
Reading, PA
  5.7+
Kurt G.   Reading, PA
  5.7+
Lucander I'm not sure what you mean for the opening move but as far as going into Madame G I think it depends when you do it. I agree with you for a busy weekend but I personally did it on a quiet weekday with no one around in either direction, we were the only ones in the area. In an instance like that I don't see an issue with it, the Gunks is full of link-ups that take up two routes, you've just got to be conscious of other people. Jan 24, 2019
SethG
 
SethG  
 
Seems to me if you do P1 of Columbia and you want to continue into Madame G for the rest of the climb you have every right to do that. The only circumstance in which I'd consider it rude is if someone else is already coming up P1 of Madame G and you pass them and jump in their way creating a cluster. Jan 25, 2019