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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ivan Rezucha and Annie O'Neill
Page Views: 1,230 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ross Fadely on Jan 10, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

A good route for those looking to challenge their mental game (P2).

P1- Climb up the nice clean face making a couple interesting moves in the process. Belay at the obvious tree on a large ledge.

P2- Step left and climb up and right to the corner/overhang (and some welcome gear). Climb straight up from here to another overhang which is tricky to surmount (don't skip right). Once up, climb up and left through a balancy and thin face towards a right-facing corner. Holding it together here is paramount! Once you have gear again, climb straight to the GT and belay at a left-facing corner.

P3- Traverse out the corner and climb the arete and face. Go up to and climb the overhang with a crack in it.

Location

On the face just right of Minty.

Protection

Standard rack to 2"

Photos

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Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
P1 is fun, thin face climbing. P2 is a whole 'nother level of seriousness. Thin, dirty with very marginal pro (mostly tiny cams). Be ready for commitment and adventure. The P3 corner is fun and the final, slopey face has no pro except for a piton. It would seem sketchy, but after P2 anything seems reasonable. Jun 16, 2017
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
Third pitch is very worthwhile. Hiding in the lichen are some exciting moves with small tricky pro, then an unlikely top out. May 17, 2014