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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,896 total, 48/month
Shared By: Kris Landell on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: JSH

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Description

This route is really a variation of Northern Pillar, but is an excellent aim for 5.5 as its own route. Climb the finger crack with the small tree in it - the tree is off! Past the tree, head either left to the Northern Pillar bolts, or wander right to merge with other routes to the right, such as Triple Bulges.

Location

About 25' right of Northern Pillar.

Protection

G pro. Rap station at top on a pine tree.

Photos

Chris Mamas
Runnemede, NJ
 
Chris Mamas   Runnemede, NJ
 
This would be a classic If it were longer and the it didn’t have a tree growing out of it. Jul 29, 2017
Ryan M Moore
Philadelphia, PA
 
Ryan M Moore   Philadelphia, PA
 
Really fun crack with actual crack climbing technique. I can't think of a more well protected climb at the grade in the Gunks(any grade maybe). Found it very, very easy (less difficult than most 5's at the gunks) although on anything sub 5.8 I find the difficulty of any move is directly correlated with how far above the last solid gear I am. As for the strenuous gear placement comment, what better way to break into trad than falling on the bomber gear below you while you're trying to place. I would have whipped on any placement on this route, and I could have placed almost every foot if I wanted. I'm a terrible coward on gear and I don't feel uncomfortable once on this route. Jun 14, 2017
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
Super nice crack lead, its no harder than 5.6, if you have any idea how to hand jam. Well worth it , even though its so short. Jul 22, 2014
Ben Brotelho
Albany, NY
  5.4
Ben Brotelho   Albany, NY
  5.4
Great beginning leader climb...grade is spot on (might even be 5.4...), gear is plentiful and very obvious, and it is a fun crack! Dec 14, 2012
Heather Selitrennikoff   East Coast
As a beginning leader, I thought this was a fun albeit short crack with no surprises. Sep 17, 2010
This is quite possibly one of my favorite moderate single pitch routes at the gunks. I'm a crack lover and it's rare to find a nice cruiser splitter like this at the gunks. Sep 7, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I think this is a great climb for someone breaking into the grade. No route finding, some thoughtful moves up the crack and some thin moves on the face. It protects well. Aug 24, 2010