Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,638 total · 48/month
Shared By: Kris Landell on Nov 4, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

195 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details


This route is really a variation of Northern Pillar, but is an excellent aim for 5.5 as its own route. Climb the finger crack with the small tree in it - the tree is off! Past the tree, head either left to the Northern Pillar bolts, or wander right to merge with other routes to the right, such as Triple Bulges.


About 25' right of Northern Pillar.


G pro. Rap station at top on a pine tree.


gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I think this is a great climb for someone breaking into the grade. No route finding, some thoughtful moves up the crack and some thin moves on the face. It protects well. Aug 24, 2010
This is quite possibly one of my favorite moderate single pitch routes at the gunks. I'm a crack lover and it's rare to find a nice cruiser splitter like this at the gunks. Sep 7, 2010
Heather S
Dallas, TX
Heather S   Dallas, TX
As a beginning leader, I thought this was a fun albeit short crack with no surprises. Sep 17, 2010
Ben Brotelho
Albany, NY
Ben Brotelho   Albany, NY
Great beginning leader climb...grade is spot on (might even be 5.4...), gear is plentiful and very obvious, and it is a fun crack! Dec 14, 2012
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
Super nice crack lead, its no harder than 5.6, if you have any idea how to hand jam. Well worth it , even though its so short. Jul 22, 2014
Ryan M Moore
Philadelphia, PA
Ryan M Moore   Philadelphia, PA
Really fun crack with actual crack climbing technique. I can't think of a more well protected climb at the grade in the Gunks(any grade maybe). Found it very, very easy (less difficult than most 5's at the gunks) although on anything sub 5.8 I find the difficulty of any move is directly correlated with how far above the last solid gear I am. As for the strenuous gear placement comment, what better way to break into trad than falling on the bomber gear below you while you're trying to place. I would have whipped on any placement on this route, and I could have placed almost every foot if I wanted. I'm a terrible coward on gear and I don't feel uncomfortable once on this route. Jun 14, 2017
Chris Mamas
Runnemede, NJ
Chris Mamas   Runnemede, NJ
This would be a classic If it were longer and the it didn’t have a tree growing out of it. Jul 29, 2017
Caitlin M
New York, NY
Caitlin M   New York, NY
Watch out for the giant angry squirrel that lives in the hole at the top of the crack. There will be lots of hooting and hollering from said hole. Stay calm and don't whip when your new "friend" jumps out and runs down your leg. Mar 10, 2019 · Temporary Report