Avg: 3.2 from 228 votes
Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
|Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13|
|Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c|
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Hans Kraus, Roger Wolcott, Del Wolcott, 1948|
|Page Views:||19,090 total, 133/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Feb 27, 2006|
DescriptionMy personal favorite at this grade. Often very busy though.
Start left of Minty: from where the trail hits the cliff, walk about 50' left past the thin crack of Snooky's Return to an obvious right-leaning crack.
P1: Either climb the crack (harder) or corners just left to a ledge. Continue up and step right and then up to a good belay (even with the top of Snooky's). 5.3, 75'. It's possible to walk right to the rap anchor there if you need to descend.
P2: Climb up the big corner above. About 40' up, it's easier to work left onto the face instead of staying in the corner. If you find the moves are harder than 5.4 you need to go left. Work left on a ledge system to a right-facing corner - climb up this to a comfy belay on the GT ledge. 5.4, 120'.
P3: Climb up a left-facing corner about 10' to a roof, clip an old pin, and avoid it around to the right. Then up easy ground to another roof - step left at this one (spectacular exposure) and then up to the top. 5.3, 60'.
Rappel from a tree at clifftop; there are bolted anchors at the GT ledge and at mid-cliff, so a single 60m will do.
Be very careful of climbers below, if you rappel, remembering that climbers have the right-of-way.