Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Hans Kraus, Roger Wolcott, Del Wolcott, 1948
Page Views: 23,639 total · 135/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 27, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

My personal favorite at this grade. Often very busy though.

Start left of Minty: from where the trail hits the cliff, walk about 50' left past the thin crack of Snooky's Return to an obvious right-leaning crack.

P1: Either climb the crack (harder) or corners just left to a ledge. Continue up and step right and then up to a good belay (even with the top of Snooky's). 5.3, 75'. It's possible to walk right to the rap anchor there if you need to descend.

P2: Climb up the big corner above. About 40' up, it's easier to work left onto the face instead of staying in the corner. If you find the moves are harder than 5.4 you need to go left. Work left on a ledge system to a right-facing corner - climb up this to a comfy belay on the GT ledge. 5.4, 120'.

P3: Climb up a left-facing corner about 10' to a roof, clip an old pin, and avoid it around to the right. Then up easy ground to another roof - step left at this one (spectacular exposure) and then up to the top. 5.3, 60'.

Rappel from a tree at clifftop; there are bolted anchors at the GT ledge and at mid-cliff, so a single 60m will do.

Be very careful of climbers below, if you rappel, remembering that climbers have the right-of-way.

Protection

Light Gunks rack.

Photos