Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Hans Kraus, Roger Wolcott, Del Wolcott, 1948
Page Views: 21,343 total · 133/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 27, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

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Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details


My personal favorite at this grade. Often very busy though.

Start left of Minty: from where the trail hits the cliff, walk about 50' left past the thin crack of Snooky's Return to an obvious right-leaning crack.

P1: Either climb the crack (harder) or corners just left to a ledge. Continue up and step right and then up to a good belay (even with the top of Snooky's). 5.3, 75'. It's possible to walk right to the rap anchor there if you need to descend.

P2: Climb up the big corner above. About 40' up, it's easier to work left onto the face instead of staying in the corner. If you find the moves are harder than 5.4 you need to go left. Work left on a ledge system to a right-facing corner - climb up this to a comfy belay on the GT ledge. 5.4, 120'.

P3: Climb up a left-facing corner about 10' to a roof, clip an old pin, and avoid it around to the right. Then up easy ground to another roof - step left at this one (spectacular exposure) and then up to the top. 5.3, 60'.

Rappel from a tree at clifftop; there are bolted anchors at the GT ledge and at mid-cliff, so a single 60m will do.

Be very careful of climbers below, if you rappel, remembering that climbers have the right-of-way.


Light Gunks rack.
Jim O'Brien
Branford, CT
Jim O'Brien   Branford, CT
The pitch 1 belay is tough with a light rack; used up my 1, 2 & 3 cam on the anchor- Dec 7, 2007
This a wonderful climb on all three pitches, not actually 5.4 (5.3 is consensus rating) but a bit trying w/some routefinding difficulties for a 5.3 leader.

You can combine P1 and P2 w/ a 60M rope if you're an experienced leader, have a follower who won't fall at the P1 crux (near the start of the route) and use long slings. Apr 2, 2008
New York, NY
divnamite   New York, NY
I still can't find the original route (5.3) which is supposed to go diagonally across the face. I was in a hurry so I wasn't paying close attention, but it seems there are no protection on the face. I went up the 5.4 route which is go up the corner and then traverse left. If someone has a nice big photo of original route, please let me know. Apr 28, 2008
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
On pitch 2 the original route starts diagonalling left about twenty feet up. Look for a traverse with good feet. Once you go out about 15 feet you will see a piton clip that and diagonal across the face where you will find a few pitons to clip. This pitch is why it is rated PG. Many beginning leaders go straight up the corner on pitch 2 (better gear). They use slings that are too short putting a 90 degree bend in the rope when the start the traverse resulting in really bad rope drag. If you are going to do this variation use 2 ft slings all the way and a 4 ft sling in the apex of the corner. Apr 24, 2009
I only found the first piton on P1 and after that just ran out all the way to the belay station - climbing is easy but there were a couple of committing unprotected moves. Watch out for people rappeling on Blueberry Ledges - a guide dropped his client on my head while I was belaying my second. Nov 9, 2009
It's also possible to move out left just a few feet above the first belay. The rock is nice and the moves are interesting (5.4ish). The gear is good and the rope drag potential for the pitch is dramatically reduced. Jul 11, 2010
  5.4 PG13
  5.4 PG13
This time I tried leading the traverse with two ropes. Made me feel completely free to place lots of small cams and stuff further along the traverse without exposing the second to extra swing. So really the only part of the climb not well-protected for me leading was like the first 25 feet or so into the traverse (when I was exposed to swinging back and hitting the corner).

P1 lower half: The obvious crack has a move with pretty thin feet. Starting to L of it, then weaving around a bit. (The upper half of P1 could also be reached be scrambling up a ramp from its left, without climbing the lower half - which was the original route).

P1 upper half: The obvious L-facing corner is harder, has an awkward mantle move (5.4?) but perhaps more interesting. The face to the right of the corner seemed easier.

Overall climb difficulty: Perhaps if you're very careful to find the easiest way at all times, might be able to avoid all the 5.4 moves and go the whole way at 5.3 Oct 29, 2010
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.4 PG13
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
  5.4 PG13
This is not a good beginner's lead. That said, it's not a horrible climb but probably my least favorite "classic" climbed thus far.

The opening moves up the crack are fun, the next corner above (about 25 feet) is also fun and sometimes awkward.

  • *edit upon return climb 10/2011** For the lead climber a fall during the traverse could be extremely dangerous, resulting in a very bad swing into the large left facing corner just ascended. Much less of an issue for the follow since they would just swing across the face below the belay.

That said, the traverse is easy and if you look hard and have small cams (aliens, metolius masters) there appeared to be a few opportunities to protect the traverse. Also, the end of the second pitch is on the GT ledge above the traverse, and to move up you leave the traverse before reaching the right facing corner, and during that continuing ascent there's gear. I still wouldn't send a first time 5.3 leader up this router (the bottom crack is stiff, probably more like 5.5), and traverses are something best learned as a follow first. Nov 22, 2010
David Ford
Cambridge, MA
David Ford   Cambridge, MA
I tried linking the first pitch with the last pitches of Friends and Lovers as Williams recommends, but found the climbing to be dirty, loose and not particularly well-protected. Better to stick with the normal route! Jul 19, 2011
Tom D
New York
Tom D   New York
Great climb. However, I agree with everyone else who said they do not recommend it for beginners or those whom are not 100% confident. The traverse on pitch 2's 5.4 var can definitely result in injury. There are 10ft gaps of no pro. Aug 3, 2011
Burghschred Aliberti
Bend, OR
Burghschred Aliberti   Bend, OR
Super fun climbing! This was my first multi-pitch trad lead and it was perfect. Just enough challenge with route finding, rope management, exposure and getting good gear. The moves are all super easy and solid, just delightful. Todd Swain's guidebook was a bit hard to follow for this route, I ended up doing the 5.4 variation traverse without knowing it. Still super (fun)easy climbing, but a bit hard to protect. I found a bomber #2 bd hex placement midway across the traverse where I couldn't get anything else in (don't have any cams that small). Careful on the last part of p2, the guidebook I had said to step around the corner onto the face. The face there is broken and what appear to be good jugs are mostly very loose blocks. Stick to the corner from the end of the traverse up to the GT ledge. P3 should not be missed, it is simply excellent. Sep 12, 2011
New York
NYClimber   New York
A great climb.

Watch P2 traverse with rope drag. My quickdraws weren't enuff to reduce rope drag enuff and wound up with hand blisters I had to pull so hard to get the rope up to belay with! Don't make the same mistake! Use full length runners up the left-facing corner to Coffin Rock belay.

Great view and def P3 has spectacular exposure!
Jul 27, 2012
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
After climbing this a bunch of times I have to say it still stands up as my favorite climb around this grade in the trapps. Great moves and positioning throughout. Do yourself a favor and climb this in the moonlight sometime. Dec 1, 2013
I wish I'd just gone straight all the way up the corner and done the traverse at the top. I'm not sure where the diagonal route goes, but I ended up all over the place trying get gear in to protect the second. Also didn't think the anchor building options at either belay were that spectacular, which would probably suck if it was your first lead. Overall didn't find this climb to be all that anyways. Apr 27, 2014
Nick Hamilton
Nick Hamilton   Philadelphia
Finally got a chance to climb this yesterday. Second and third pitches are pure joy. Exciting and thoughtful climbing that was never scary. I think I started the leftward traverse on P2 about halfway between the belay and the top of the corner, placing none of my own gear but clipping a stuck yellow Alien, and two pins along the way. Wonderful position, and never felt harder than 5.3.

The third pitch is an easy romp. The moves you make to go left out of the second corner were a thrilling surprise. You're shrouded in shadow in that little corner, then you pull on delicious jugs to swing around onto the face and are greeted once again by a wonderful breeze that you had forgotten about since leaving the last belay. SO GOOD. Oct 14, 2014
Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
This was a fun climb to follow, and would make a really great early lead. But I don't think it's the best choice for a first lead. The first two pitches both required gear anchors, and tricky ones at that- placement options weren't great at either belay (otherwise, it's very well protected). This route requires lots of trad draws, especially on the second pitch, a couple double-length ones would help also. Lots of very exposed but juggy moves for the grade, beautiful climb!

Two raps with a 70 meter rope, a 60 would probably do also. But this is such a crowded route, you're better off combining ropes with the next party behind you, or walk off via uberfall. You'll almost certainly rap on top of other climbers, so if you must rap, lower your ropes gently and give plenty of warning! May 18, 2015
Stephen Waud
Burlington, VT
Stephen Waud   Burlington, VT
Great route! For this noob, calling p1 and p3 both 5.3 seems bizarre. p1 was totally cruiser while p3 had some good spice to it.

As of 10-4-2015 there's a fixed tricam on the higher traverse out of the p2 corner and fixed red camalot stuffed into the last roof. Oct 5, 2015
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
Let's be honest.. A fall off almost anywhere on the second pitch would probably be catastrophic.. I think is very safe to call is R.. A great great climb none the less!! Nov 1, 2015
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
P2 protects fine IMO. You may have to make a move or two up from the best line to place gear. Poke around and you'll find some good stuff. Nov 3, 2015
Brooklyn, NY
Phredward   Brooklyn, NY
There's a large, stuck nut at the first belay which looked both new and solid.

I found 2-3 stuck nuts on the second pitch as well. Nov 11, 2015
Joshua Wise
Mountain View, CA
  5.4 R
Joshua Wise   Mountain View, CA
  5.4 R
This beginner, carrying a light rack, was somewhat less than delighted on the second pitch :-) I found myself getting pretty run out and scared in the corner even before the traverse (hanging out in the top of the corner staring down at a #3 C4 a few body lengths below was an exciting moment, to be sure). Then, not knowing that the traverse was 'supposed' to be runout, I did find my scared factor continuing to increase...

So maybe beginners might want a little more than a 'light rack'. But, on the other hand, this all did mean that seeing the tree anchor at the end was truly delightful indeed! Sep 20, 2016
Nikki Neve
Middletown, CT
Nikki Neve   Middletown, CT
I climbed this with a solid partner. I climbed first pitch with zero effort. We swapped for pitch 2 and she ran out of gear after sewing up the 2nd pitch due to the steepness of it and difficulty. It's a long, steep route so bring a substantial rack if you don't want to face running out of gear and/or being runout with risk of getting injured. A very, very fun climb! Sep 7, 2017
Albi Eds
Brooklyn, NY
Albi Eds   Brooklyn, NY
There is a stuck black tricam on the traverse if you take the higher route. This climb certainly isn't for the beginning trad leader, but definitely one to hit with some experience with roofs and traversing. Fun climb.

Also found a #11 BD nut to the left of the ideal belay area. Was loose and very easy to get out - maybe forgotten about. Oct 16, 2017
David K
New Paltz, NY
  5.4 PG13
David K   New Paltz, NY
  5.4 PG13
Overconfident on easy terrain, I slipped on a slick left foot on the dihedral before the traverse well above my lengthily-extended #5 Dragon Cam (similar to #3 Camalot), whipping about 30 feet. Shaken after this fall, I fixed the black tricam on the traverse that Albi Eds mentions, literally jamming it into an overcammed position with my nut tool. My thinking at the time was something along the lines of, "Screw this tricam, I want to live!".

I came out relatively unscathed because of where I fell, but if I had fallen on the crux traverse, this would be a very different post. Definitely a PG13 route. May 18, 2018
B. L.
New York, NY
B. L.   New York, NY
What a blast for a 5.4! P2 has an exhilarating runout traverse & P3 has exciting moves under roofs! I was always put off by the name of this climb.. but it's really stellar! Maybe not the best 5.4 to break into the grade though.. I think it might be intimidating for a new 5.4 leader. I ran v. low on gear on p2 after sewing up the corner which made the traverse and face climb more scary. P2 corner seemed challenging for a 5.4 and p3 seemed challenging for 5.3. Still wowed by how exciting this 5.4 climb was.. so recommended!!! Jul 6, 2018
Daniel Jump
Norwalk CT
Daniel Jump   Norwalk CT
An excellent route with three fun and varied pitches.

Pitch 1: The Gunks app describes the vertical crack pictured above as a variation, with the original route going up a large flake about fifteen feet to the left. I highly recommend the crack, which is a beautiful line with some opportunities to practice hand jamming (not something you get that often in the gunks).

Pitch 2: A very exciting long pitch with sustained climbing and tricky rope management. In addition to the advice about extending your pieces in the corner, I would add that you should consider at least double length extensions for your pieces in the face after the traverse. Looking at the photo above ("p.2, 5.4 variation"), you can see that the rope takes a nice easy curve through the corner but makes a sharp, almost ninety degree angle going up after the traverse. I bet that caused some serious rope drag and made for a fatiguing belay for the leader. One way to mitigate this is to really extend those pieces in the face. The cost is that the leader won't be as well protected for a slightly cruxy, reachy move on the face, but the benefit in rope drag is definitely worth it if you feel confident in the grade.

The traverse is not too run out as long as you have small, maybe even micro cams to place. I would not recommend a light rack for this climb: pitch 2 wants a lot of gear, and pitch 1 and 2 belays are going to have to be built of gear. I was glad I had the micros, doubles of most of the standard cams, and lots of double length slings.

Pitch 3 is fun for the great exposure alone. Aug 24, 2018
Erik Braun
New York, NY
Erik Braun   New York, NY
Pitch 1 is fairly straightforward. I would recommend any newer trad leaders to take a fair amount of extra single and double slings for pitch 2. Aug 28, 2018
Will Binette
New York, NY
Will Binette   New York, NY
Kinda got in a sticky situation on the rappel. I was using a 60m rope and started the rap off the tree immediately at the top of the route which had 3 cordelettes and two D rings on it. My 60m didn't reach the ledge for the second rap and I luckily was not on a hanging rappel and could get on the wall and retie in to have my partner lower me to the rap rings while another group had a 70m which my partner used to get to me. Make sure you're on the correct rappel so you don't get in a similar situation. In terms of the route, I think it was bloody fantastic. 10/10 with super fun moves and variety of climbing styles. Apr 8, 2019