Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Weeping Willie (direct)
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2.2 from 48
votes
Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
|
|
Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
|
|
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Brave Valkyrie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Easy Virgin T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
|
|
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
|
|
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
|
|
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
|
|
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Seldom Mustard Never Relish T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Son of Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
|
|
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
|
|
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
|
|
Weeping Willie (direct) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,595 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel Kat on Jul 16, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
Description
Some printed guidebooks list this as a variation on 'Willie's Weep'. The Gunks App has this route as the only climb listed in this area/corner, and it's called 'Weeping Willie'.
It's pleasant climbing combining Gunks thin horizontals (p1) and classic gunks overhanging corners (p2). I found this line moderately fun, including the part where I had to hide in a tiny cave just above the halfway-belay spot to avoid a surprise downpour ... until the water started seeping (weeping?) through the cracks onto us and some of the route. #namesake
You'll want to watch out for some loose rock in the corner of P2. There were a few, and in particular, one that is slightly larger than a microwave looks like a good handhold but could easily be pulled right off onto your belayer.
P1 – Start near the corner below a slab leading to a right-facing corner above (p2). Clamber up to a ~5’ ledge. Move up and right, and then back left, following the easier terrain and forming a sort-of large gentle arc ending at a small belay stance just below the large right facing corner.
P2 – Move up into the corner. Layback and stem up the low overhanging corner crack (crux), or use some face holds out left (easier but less protected). Continue up slightly easier terrain in the corner until the corner moves right and it seems logical to step around left onto the face. Continue up the face and trend right towards a pine tree. New Bolted rappel station just right of pine tree. Please avoid using the pine tree for rappelling and belaying.
70m rope required to rap from p2.
5 Comments