Elevation: 1,060 ft
GPS: 41.741, -74.183 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 136,380 total · 1,099/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Feb 26, 2011
Admins: RJ B
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Along the Cliff

last area: The Mac Wall | next area: V3 - Middle Earth

Description

Major Features: This area features the largest collection of easy multi-pitch routes: Beginner's Delight, Minty, Hawk, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, and Northern Pillar, among others. For that reason, you'll often find local guides busy at work around here, especially at the short wall near the base of Finger Locks or Cedar Box.

This area starts with the huge, right-facing orange corner of Asphodel, and continues past Beginner's Delight, Snooky's Return, Minty, Hawk, and the area's centerpiece route, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, which aims right up the middle of the massive orange buttress. To the right, the area includes the routes just before, and in the alcove to the left of, the Mantle Block, a large block leaning against the cliff with a 4' roof extending across it.

Approach: Asphodel and neighboring routes can also be reached by the
Welcome to the Gunks approach trail. The next trail is [[Minty]]110455127 .
The main approach for the middle of this area is
[[105800326]] approach trail (pine tree on right and smaller pine on left). The next trail is [[Madame G's]]110455131 , which leads you right up to Minty, which you can recognize through the trees by the large blocks at its base (pic of trail will appear in the spring). Further north is the
Madame G's approach trail. The next trail is [[Bitchy Virgin]]110455099. .

Descent: There is a bolted rappel line on the rightnorth side of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress; a bit of scrambling is necessary to get down to it. Many routes also have intermediate tree anchors.

The bolts over Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst are a short, easy scramble down from the clifftop; they are located on the front side of a large block towards the front of the buttress itself. See the picture under the Mme G's route, which shows what you're looking for. "Back in the day", this rappel used to go from the large tree on the very front corner of the buttress, and getting into position to rappel was ... airy. Even now, it's mostly free-hanging. Two ropes will get you to the ground, or there are a second set of bolts mid-cliff for use with one rope.

35 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 143
Northern Pillar
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 298
Minty
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 93
Tipsy Trees
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 322
Beginner's Delight
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 146
Hawk
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 63
Triple Bulges
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 141
Asphodel
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 230
Finger Locks or Cedar Box
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 693
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 249
Snooky's Return
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 120
Columbia
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 83
Hyjek's Horror
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 97
Friends and Lovers
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 104
Beatle Brow Bulge
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 167
Le Teton
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Northern Pillar
 143
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 3 pitches
Minty
 298
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Tipsy Trees
 93
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Beginner's Delight
 322
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Hawk
 146
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Triple Bulges
 63
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Asphodel
 141
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Finger Locks or Cedar Box
 230
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
 693
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Snooky's Return
 249
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Columbia
 120
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Hyjek's Horror
 83
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Friends and Lovers
 97
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Beatle Brow Bulge
 104
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Le Teton
 167
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) »

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