Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 1,060 ft
GPS: 41.74053, -74.18289
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 171,341 total · 1,072/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Feb 26, 2011
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

Along the Cliff Suggest change

last area: The Mac Wall | next area: V3 - Middle Earth

Description Suggest change

Major Features: This area features the largest collection of easy multi-pitch routes: Beginner's Delight, Minty, Hawk, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, and Northern Pillar, among others. For that reason, you'll often find local guides busy at work around here, especially at the short wall near the base of Finger Locks or Cedar Box.

This area starts with the huge, right-facing orange corner of Asphodel, and continues past Beginner's Delight, Snooky's Return, Minty, Hawk, and the area's centerpiece route, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, which aims right up the middle of the massive orange buttress. To the right, the area includes the routes just before, and in the alcove to the left of, the Mantle Block, a large block leaning against the cliff with a 4' roof extending across it.

Approach: Asphodel and neighboring routes can also be reached by the
Welcome to the Gunks approach trail. The next trail is [[Minty]]110455127 .
The main approach for the middle of this area is
[[105800326]] approach trail (pine tree on right and smaller pine on left). The next trail is [[Madame G's]]110455131 , which leads you right up to Minty, which you can recognize through the trees by the large blocks at its base (pic of trail will appear in the spring). Further north is the
Madame G's approach trail. The next trail is [[Bitchy Virgin]]110455099. .

Descent: There is a bolted rappel line on the rightnorth side of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress; a bit of scrambling is necessary to get down to it. Many routes also have intermediate tree anchors.

The bolts over Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst are a short, easy scramble down from the clifftop; they are located on the front side of a large block towards the front of the buttress itself. See the picture under the Mme G's route, which shows what you're looking for. "Back in the day", this rappel used to go from the large tree on the very front corner of the buttress, and getting into position to rappel was ... airy. Even now, it's mostly free-hanging. Two ropes will get you to the ground, or there are a second set of bolts mid-cliff for use with one rope.

35 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 177
Northern Pillar
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 366
Minty
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 121
Tipsy Trees
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 394
Beginner's Delight
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 176
Hawk
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 87
Triple Bulges
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 170
Asphodel
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 274
Finger Locks or Cedar Box
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 856
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 293
Snooky's Return
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 133
Columbia
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 116
Friends and Lovers
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 197
Le Teton
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 141
Beatle Brow Bulge
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 21
Tetonia
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Northern Pillar
 177
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 3 pitches
Minty
 366
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Tipsy Trees
 121
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Beginner's Delight
 394
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Hawk
 176
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Triple Bulges
 87
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Asphodel
 170
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Finger Locks or Cedar Box
 274
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
 856
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Snooky's Return
 293
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Columbia
 133
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Friends and Lovers
 116
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Le Teton
 197
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Beatle Brow Bulge
 141
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Tetonia
 21
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading