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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Elevation: 1,060 ft
GPS: 41.741, -74.183 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 60,864 total, 738/month
Shared By: JSH on Feb 26, 2011
Admins: JSH

Peregrine Closure 2017

The closure for peregrine nesting goes from Tough Shift (right end of the Mac Wall), all the way to Immaculate Virgin (just before the Mantel Block, Raunchy and V-3). This includes the entire Guides' Wall area.

Along the Cliff

last area: The Mac Wall | next area: V3 - Middle Earth

Description

Major Features: This area features the largest collection of easy multi-pitch routes: Beginner's Delight, Minty, Hawk, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, and Northern Pillar, among others. For that reason, you'll often find local guides busy at work around here, especially at the short wall near the base of Finger Locks or Cedar Box.

This area starts with the huge, right-facing orange corner of Asphodel, and continues past Beginner's Delight, Snooky's Return, Minty, Hawk, and the area's centerpiece route, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, which aims right up the middle of the massive orange buttress. To the right, the area includes the routes just before, and in the alcove to the left of, the Mantle Block, a large block leaning against the cliff with a 4' roof extending across it.

Approach: Asphodel and neighboring routes can also be reached by the .
The main approach for the middle of this area is , which leads you right up to Minty, which you can recognize through the trees by the large blocks at its base (pic of trail will appear in the spring). Further north is the .

Descent: There is a bolted rappel line on the rightnorth side of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress; a bit of scrambling is necessary to get down to it. Many routes also have intermediate tree anchors.

The bolts over Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst are a short, easy scramble down from the clifftop; they are located on the front side of a large block towards the front of the buttress itself. See the picture under the Mme G's route, which shows what you're looking for. "Back in the day", this rappel used to go from the large tree on the very front corner of the buttress, and getting into position to rappel was ... airy. Even now, it's mostly free-hanging. Two ropes will get you to the ground, or there are a second set of bolts mid-cliff for use with one rope.

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Northern Pillar
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Minty
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tipsy Trees
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Beginner's Delight
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Asphodel
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Finger Locks or Cedar Box
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Immaculate Virgin
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snooky's Return
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Columbia
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hyjek's Horror
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Friends and Lovers
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Le Teton
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beatle Brow Bulge
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Northern Pillar 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 3 pitches
Minty 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Tipsy Trees 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Beginner's Delight 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Hawk 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Asphodel 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Finger Locks or Cedar Box 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Immaculate Virgin 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Snooky's Return 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Columbia 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Hyjek's Horror 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Friends and Lovers 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Le Teton 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Beatle Brow Bulge 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
"Guides Wall" is an euphemism, not a posted sign. Climb there as you would any other section of wall in the Gunks following the same well established ethics and etiquette. Jul 5, 2017

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