Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Weeping Willie (direct) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Willie's Weep T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Along the Cliff

last area: The Mac Wall | next area: V3 - Middle Earth

Description

Major Features: This area features the largest collection of easy multi-pitch routes: Beginner's Delight, Minty, Hawk, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, and Northern Pillar, among others. For that reason, you'll often find local guides busy at work around here, especially at the short wall near the base of Finger Locks or Cedar Box.

This area starts with the huge, right-facing orange corner of Asphodel, and continues past Beginner's Delight, Snooky's Return, Minty, Hawk, and the area's centerpiece route, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, which aims right up the middle of the massive orange buttress. To the right, the area includes the routes just before, and in the alcove to the left of, the Mantle Block, a large block leaning against the cliff with a 4' roof extending across it.

Approach: Asphodel and neighboring routes can also be reached by the
Welcome to the Gunks approach trail. The next trail is [[Minty]]110455127 .
The main approach for the middle of this area is
[[105800326]] approach trail (pine tree on right and smaller pine on left). The next trail is [[Madame G's]]110455131 , which leads you right up to Minty, which you can recognize through the trees by the large blocks at its base (pic of trail will appear in the spring). Further north is the
Madame G's approach trail. The next trail is [[Bitchy Virgin]]110455099. .

Descent: There is a bolted rappel line on the rightnorth side of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress; a bit of scrambling is necessary to get down to it. Many routes also have intermediate tree anchors.

The bolts over Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst are a short, easy scramble down from the clifftop; they are located on the front side of a large block towards the front of the buttress itself. See the picture under the Mme G's route, which shows what you're looking for. "Back in the day", this rappel used to go from the large tree on the very front corner of the buttress, and getting into position to rappel was ... airy. Even now, it's mostly free-hanging. Two ropes will get you to the ground, or there are a second set of bolts mid-cliff for use with one rope.

34 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 103
Northern Pillar
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 222
Minty
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 77
Tipsy Trees
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 250
Beginner's Delight
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 116
Hawk
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 106
Asphodel
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 189
Finger Locks or Cedar Box
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 535
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 49
Immaculate Virgin
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 185
Snooky's Return
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 96
Columbia
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 62
Hyjek's Horror
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 74
Friends and Lovers
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 131
Le Teton
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 69
Beatle Brow Bulge
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Northern Pillar
 103
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 3 pitches
Minty
 222
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Tipsy Trees
 77
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Beginner's Delight
 250
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Hawk
 116
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Asphodel
 106
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Finger Locks or Cedar Box
 189
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
 535
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Immaculate Virgin
 49
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Snooky's Return
 185
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Columbia
 96
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Hyjek's Horror
 62
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Friends and Lovers
 74
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Le Teton
 131
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Beatle Brow Bulge
 69
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
"Guides Wall" is an euphemism, not a posted sign. Climb there as you would any other section of wall in the Gunks following the same well established ethics and etiquette. Jul 5, 2017

More About The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (4)

All Photos Within The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) (136)

Most Popular · Newest · Random