Elevation: 1,060 ft
GPS: 41.741, -74.183 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 112,491 total · 998/month
Shared By: JSH on Feb 26, 2011
Admins: JSH
Access Issue: 2020 Peregrine Closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details
Access Issue: COVID-19 Closures (was Tree Preservation and Rappelling) Details

Along the Cliff

last area: The Mac Wall | next area: V3 - Middle Earth

Description

Major Features: This area features the largest collection of easy multi-pitch routes: Beginner's Delight, Minty, Hawk, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, and Northern Pillar, among others. For that reason, you'll often find local guides busy at work around here, especially at the short wall near the base of Finger Locks or Cedar Box.

This area starts with the huge, right-facing orange corner of Asphodel, and continues past Beginner's Delight, Snooky's Return, Minty, Hawk, and the area's centerpiece route, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, which aims right up the middle of the massive orange buttress. To the right, the area includes the routes just before, and in the alcove to the left of, the Mantle Block, a large block leaning against the cliff with a 4' roof extending across it.

Approach: Asphodel and neighboring routes can also be reached by the
Welcome to the Gunks approach trail. The next trail is [[Minty]]110455127 .
The main approach for the middle of this area is
[[105800326]] approach trail (pine tree on right and smaller pine on left). The next trail is [[Madame G's]]110455131 , which leads you right up to Minty, which you can recognize through the trees by the large blocks at its base (pic of trail will appear in the spring). Further north is the
Madame G's approach trail. The next trail is [[Bitchy Virgin]]110455099. .

Descent: There is a bolted rappel line on the rightnorth side of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress; a bit of scrambling is necessary to get down to it. Many routes also have intermediate tree anchors.

The bolts over Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst are a short, easy scramble down from the clifftop; they are located on the front side of a large block towards the front of the buttress itself. See the picture under the Mme G's route, which shows what you're looking for. "Back in the day", this rappel used to go from the large tree on the very front corner of the buttress, and getting into position to rappel was ... airy. Even now, it's mostly free-hanging. Two ropes will get you to the ground, or there are a second set of bolts mid-cliff for use with one rope.

35 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 132
Northern Pillar
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 270
Minty
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 88
Tipsy Trees
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 293
Beginner's Delight
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 131
Hawk
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 58
Triple Bulges
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 131
Asphodel
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 216
Finger Locks or Cedar Box
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 638
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 226
Snooky's Return
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 112
Columbia
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 78
Hyjek's Horror
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 83
Friends and Lovers
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 155
Le Teton
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 91
Beatle Brow Bulge
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Northern Pillar
 132
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 3 pitches
Minty
 270
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Tipsy Trees
 88
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Beginner's Delight
 293
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Hawk
 131
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Triple Bulges
 58
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Asphodel
 131
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Finger Locks or Cedar Box
 216
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
 638
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Snooky's Return
 226
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Columbia
 112
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Hyjek's Horror
 78
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Friends and Lovers
 83
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Le Teton
 155
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Beatle Brow Bulge
 91
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) »

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