Along the Cliff

last area: The Mac Wall | next area: V3 - Middle Earth

Description

Major Features: This area features the largest collection of easy multi-pitch routes: Beginner's Delight, Minty, Hawk, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, and Northern Pillar, among others. For that reason, you'll often find local guides busy at work around here, especially at the short wall near the base of Finger Locks or Cedar Box.

This area starts with the huge, right-facing orange corner of Asphodel, and continues past Beginner's Delight, Snooky's Return, Minty, Hawk, and the area's centerpiece route, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, which aims right up the middle of the massive orange buttress. To the right, the area includes the routes just before, and in the alcove to the left of, the Mantle Block, a large block leaning against the cliff with a 4' roof extending across it.

Approach: Asphodel and neighboring routes can also be reached by the
Welcome to the Gunks approach trail. The next trail is [[Minty]]110455127 .
The main approach for the middle of this area is
[[105800326]] approach trail (pine tree on right and smaller pine on left). The next trail is [[Madame G's]]110455131 , which leads you right up to Minty, which you can recognize through the trees by the large blocks at its base (pic of trail will appear in the spring). Further north is the
Madame G's approach trail. The next trail is [[Bitchy Virgin]]110455099. .

Descent: There is a bolted rappel line on the rightnorth side of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress; a bit of scrambling is necessary to get down to it. Many routes also have intermediate tree anchors.

The bolts over Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst are a short, easy scramble down from the clifftop; they are located on the front side of a large block towards the front of the buttress itself. See the picture under the Mme G's route, which shows what you're looking for. "Back in the day", this rappel used to go from the large tree on the very front corner of the buttress, and getting into position to rappel was ... airy. Even now, it's mostly free-hanging. Two ropes will get you to the ground, or there are a second set of bolts mid-cliff for use with one rope.

34 Total Climbs

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Location: f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 107
Northern Pillar
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 230
Minty
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 81
Tipsy Trees
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 257
Beginner's Delight
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 118
Hawk
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 109
Asphodel
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 189
Finger Locks or Cedar Box
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 558
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 51
Immaculate Virgin
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 187
Snooky's Return
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 96
Columbia
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 64
Hyjek's Horror
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 75
Friends and Lovers
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 133
Le Teton
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 72
Beatle Brow Bulge
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Northern Pillar
 107
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 3 pitches
Minty
 230
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Tipsy Trees
 81
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Beginner's Delight
 257
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Hawk
 118
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Asphodel
 109
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Finger Locks or Cedar Box
 189
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
 558
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Immaculate Virgin
 51
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Snooky's Return
 187
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Columbia
 96
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Hyjek's Horror
 64
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Friends and Lovers
 75
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Le Teton
 133
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Beatle Brow Bulge
 72
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) »

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Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
"Guides Wall" is an euphemism, not a posted sign. Climb there as you would any other section of wall in the Gunks following the same well established ethics and etiquette. Jul 5, 2017