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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Weeping Willie (direct) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Minty Warren, Betty Woolsey, 1941
Page Views: 16,905 total · 110/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 25, 2006 with updates from Justin Andre
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

A justly popular beginner's outing. This route is easily located by finding the "Minty Tree" - the first significant pine tree on the left side of the carriage road. An access trail leads straight to the climb from this tree. This is about a 9-min. walk from the Uberfall or a 5-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

P1: Climb a right-facing dihedral to a ledge, then work left and up aiming for a severely leaning pine tree. 5.3, 60'.

P2: Start up a corner and immediately step around left and climb a face past a couple of pins to a ledge with a bent-over pine (optional belay here). From that tree, climb up and take another left onto the face. A hole in a flake indicates where you should step left. Up the face to a pin and then on up (crux) to easier ground and the GT ledge. Belay at a bolted rap anchor. 5.4, 120'.

P3: The usual route climbs an easy crack off the right side of the ledge. 5.2, 50'.

A much more worthwhile finish is the "Minty Overhang", rising directly above the belay tree. A pin marks the spot when you pull through. 5.5, 50'.

Descend either by walking far left to the Uberfall, or rappel via bolted rap anchors at GT ledge and below the GT ledge. The rappel from the top is from a tree.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.
Taino Grosjean
South Salem, NY
  5.3
Taino Grosjean   South Salem, NY
  5.3
The original Minty route goes up the right-facing corner from the pine tree ledge belay. If you go that way, it is indeed 5.3. The variation of stepping left onto the face and going straight up past "the hole in the rock" goes more 5.4+.

T Dec 27, 2006
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.3
Jeff Welch   Denver, CO
  5.3
Ever had a day when you just didn't feel like climbing something difficult? Do this climb.
I wasn't a huge fan of the Minty Overhang, but the rest of the route is fantastic. Jun 15, 2008
doligo
  5.3
doligo  
  5.3
One of the best 5.3s in the Gunks (the other is Beginner's Delight), and yes, you have to step on the face - the exposure is wild! Plus the corner is another route - Tipsy Trees. May 9, 2010
Galen Rahmlow
Woodbury, MN
 
Galen Rahmlow   Woodbury, MN
 
The belay at the end of the first pitch is in rough shape, best to build one. May 1, 2012
kenr
  5.4
kenr  
  5.4
The crux (for non-tall people) of the route is at the start of P1, dealing with small footholds and not well-placed handholds alongside the low right-facing corner (I'd say at least 5.4). Leaders should make sure their followers are well-protected from above on that move.

That "severely leaning pine tree" is a good thing to aim toward in P1, but an awkward spot to belay from. It's more comfortable to instead go past that pine tree and build a gear anchor at the base of the right-facing corner, or continue even farther + higher before stopping to belay.

Climbing straight up that right-facing corner is an obvious thing to do, but it puts you on a different climb, Tipsy Trees. Stepping around left is a bit intimidating -- but also one of the things that makes Minty one of the more interesting easy routes (and better than Tipsy Trees). Some leaders choose to avoid that section by temporarily switching to Tipsy Trees, then traversing left a bit higher up to rejoin Minty below the next higher right-facing corner.

The "hole in the flake" is one of several threaded protection opportunities on Minty, so if you enjoy that sort of thing, bring lots of runners and look carefully. Jun 9, 2012
Byron Igoe  
 
On the second pitch, there are quite a few loose flakes. Be careful what you pull/stand on. Also, I would not thread the hole in that long thin flake as protection. There are plenty of safer options.

Building an anchor to the right of the leaning pine tree allows you to TR Friends and Lovers. Jul 21, 2014
Eriks Rozners
Binghamton, NY
  5.4
Eriks Rozners   Binghamton, NY
  5.4
The 5.5 finish on P3 is awesome, but committing for the grade. The moves through the jugs when pulling the roof may be 5.5, but felt 5.6ish to me. Compared to another classic, Jacky's roof, the roof on P3 of Minty is harder. However, the challenge is not the roof itself. The challenge is to get to the jugs safely. Coming in below the roof is on relatively small holds. To get to the jug above the the first overhang is a slippery unprotected move that requires finesse and balance. It is not for beginning 5.5 leaders. If you miss the move, you will deck out on the ledge, which will be ugly. Oct 12, 2015
B. L.
New York, NY
  5.4
B. L.   New York, NY
  5.4
I finished my first pitch at the optional belay for pitch 2 here.. saw a slung tree below me but too late. I had to lean out from the rock a bit to see the short bent pine up to my left and belayed from that. Made it a nice long pitch and think this is probably a better pitch 1 in retrospect.

Pitch 2 when you step out onto the face really feels exposed with small holds (all good holds though.. nothing physically hard). It's amazing what a rush you can get from a 5.4 in the Gunks!!! Might sound obvious but the hole in the flake where you step out is the hole people stick their fingers through in the route pics.. I almost missed it as I thought it might mean a gap in the flake when on route.

Pitch 3 5.5. roof variation is super fun and very well protected. The part where you pull through is almost above the anchors.. you might not see the pin marking the spot until you are traversing over to it. Do the roof!

Gunks app has this at 5.3 but I feel it's 5.4 - it feels a bit harder than three pines.. more in line with beginners delight.. a classic awesome cruiser that both beginners and vets can enjoy! Highly recommended! Aug 6, 2018
Ryan Amos
Princeton, NJ
Ryan Amos   Princeton, NJ
One of my first trad climbs -- really great climbing. A long cordalette is helpful for the anchor at the end of P1. If you don't have tricams, P2 feels a little runout. Make sure to bring some extra draws since it's a long, wandering pitch. There are a couple pins and an abandoned cam you can clip into. There are bolts at the ledge after P2, but they leave you out of position to start P3. Instead, if you have the gear for it, you should build your anchor in the corner to the right. Enjoy the amazing views on the huge ledge after P2! Sep 5, 2018

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