Avg: 3 from 304 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Fritz Wiessner, Minty Warren, Betty Woolsey, 1941|
|Page Views:||21,360 total · 113/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Feb 25, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P1: Climb a right-facing dihedral to a ledge, then work left and up aiming for a severely leaning pine tree. 5.3, 60'.
P2: Start up a corner and immediately step around left and climb a face past a couple of pins to a ledge with a bent-over pine (optional belay here). From that tree, climb up and take another left onto the face. A hole in a flake indicates where you should step left. Up the face to a pin and then on up (crux) to easier ground and the GT ledge. Belay at a bolted rap anchor. 5.4, 120'.
P3: The usual route climbs an easy crack off the right side of the ledge. 5.2, 50'.
A much more worthwhile finish is the "Minty Overhang", rising directly above the belay tree. A pin marks the spot when you pull through. 5.5, 50'.
Descend either by walking far left to the Uberfall, or rappel via bolted rap anchors at GT ledge and below the GT ledge. The rappel from the top is from a tree.