[Hide Comment] The original Minty route goes up the right-facing corner from the pine tree ledge belay. If you go that way, it is indeed 5.3. The variation of stepping left onto the face and going straight up past "the hole in the rock" goes more 5.4+.

T Dec 27, 2006

[Hide Comment] Ever had a day when you just didn't feel like climbing something difficult? Do this climb.
I wasn't a huge fan of the Minty Overhang, but the rest of the route is fantastic. Jun 15, 2008

[Hide Comment] One of the best 5.3s in the Gunks (the other is Beginner's Delight), and yes, you have to step on the face - the exposure is wild! Plus the corner is another route - Tipsy Trees. May 9, 2010

[Hide Comment] The belay at the end of the first pitch is in rough shape, best to build one. May 1, 2012

[Hide Comment] The crux (for non-tall people) of the route is at the start of P1, dealing with small footholds and not well-placed handholds alongside the low right-facing corner (I'd say at least 5.4). Leaders should make sure their followers are well-protected from above on that move.

That "severely leaning pine tree" is a good thing to aim toward in P1, but an awkward spot to belay from. It's more comfortable to instead go past that pine tree and build a gear anchor at the base of the right-facing corner, or continue even farther + higher before stopping to belay.

Climbing straight up that right-facing corner is an obvious thing to do, but it puts you on a different climb, Tipsy Trees. Stepping around left is a bit intimidating -- but also one of the things that makes Minty one of the more interesting easy routes (and better than Tipsy Trees). Some leaders choose to avoid that section by temporarily switching to Tipsy Trees, then traversing left a bit higher up to rejoin Minty below the next higher right-facing corner.

The "hole in the flake" is one of several threaded protection opportunities on Minty, so if you enjoy that sort of thing, bring lots of runners and look carefully. Jun 9, 2012

[Hide Comment] On the second pitch, there are quite a few loose flakes. Be careful what you pull/stand on. Also, I would not thread the hole in that long thin flake as protection. There are plenty of safer options.

Building an anchor to the right of the leaning pine tree allows you to TR Friends and Lovers. Jul 21, 2014

[Hide Comment] The 5.5 finish on P3 is awesome, but committing for the grade. The moves through the jugs when pulling the roof may be 5.5, but felt 5.6ish to me. Compared to another classic, Jacky's roof, the roof on P3 of Minty is harder. However, the challenge is not the roof itself. The challenge is to get to the jugs safely. Coming in below the roof is on relatively small holds. To get to the jug above the the first overhang is a slippery unprotected move that requires finesse and balance. It is not for beginning 5.5 leaders. If you miss the move, you will deck out on the ledge, which will be ugly. Oct 12, 2015

[Hide Comment] I finished my first pitch at the optional belay for pitch 2 here.. saw a slung tree below me but too late. I had to lean out from the rock a bit to see the short bent pine up to my left and belayed from that. Made it a nice long pitch and think this is probably a better pitch 1 in retrospect.

Pitch 2 when you step out onto the face really feels exposed with small holds (all good holds though.. nothing physically hard). It's amazing what a rush you can get from a 5.4 in the Gunks!!! Might sound obvious but the hole in the flake where you step out is the hole people stick their fingers through in the route pics.. I almost missed it as I thought it might mean a gap in the flake when on route.

Pitch 3 5.5. roof variation is super fun and very well protected. The part where you pull through is almost above the anchors.. you might not see the pin marking the spot until you are traversing over to it. Do the roof!

Gunks app has this at 5.3 but I feel it's 5.4 - it feels a bit harder than three pines.. more in line with beginners delight.. a classic awesome cruiser that both beginners and vets can enjoy! Highly recommended! Aug 6, 2018

[Hide Comment] As kenr commented above, the first few moves of pitch one may be difficult for short climbers. Pitches 1 and 3 are pretty lackluster (note: we did the standard finish instead of pulling the roof) but pitch 2 is phenomenal Sep 21, 2020

[Hide Comment] Perfect climbing leads to the GT ledge. The direct finish on the last pitch is a great way to complete the experience. Aug 22, 2021

[Hide Comment] P1 and P2 link, if you're generous with long runners. P2/3 also link, if that's more your style. Jul 18, 2022

[Hide Comment] Fun stuff Sep 11, 2022

[Hide Comment] I stuck to the route on P1 (not going onto Tipsy Trees) and belayed from the sideways pine. This was great, but climbing the face on P2 was absolutely fantastic. No matter what grade you’re climbing at, you should climb this climb!

EDIT— P1 and P2 link very nicely. Mind your placements and fully extend. I had no drag at the top of P2.

ANOTHER EDIT - Pulled the Minty roof finally. Definitely good jugs and solid pro. I used a #3 with the pin. I definitely think it goes at more like 5.6. If I’m comparing it to another one move wonder like Bunny Direct (5.6), it’s a little more overhung, and therefore requires a bit more strength. You also have the second bulge, so you’re not quite done after the roof. NO NEED TO TRAVERSE over to where you pull the roof. You can easily climb straight up to it on either side of the chains. Oct 22, 2022

[Hide Comment] Stellar, easy, airy, steep.
A wee bit loose and blocky, take your time evaluating what you will pull on/place gear into.
The moves from the "hole in the flake" to the GT ledge are worth getting on this route alone. I got a little spooked after I dropped a bunch of nuts there after my nut-carabiner mysteriously stuck itself open. we broke the 2nd pitch into a few small sections, as it traverses a lot of ground UP and a lot of ground CLIMBERS LEFT.

Definitely will try the roof variation next time above GT ledge. Looks sweet.

Also, the "severely leaning tree" creeped me out. I wouldn't trust it. Build an anchor above it and to the left with some smaller cams. Jun 22, 2023