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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bitchy Virgin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unamed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Weeping Willie (direct) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Willie's Weep T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Lomont and Francis Coffin, 1959
Page Views: 3,710 total · 24/month
Shared By: Adam Catalano on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Approach: A large orange buttress marks the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst area. The Guide's Wall is a 50' high toprope wall just right. Triple Bulges begins on the right side of Guide's Wall at a wide, left-leaning crack (also first pitch of Twin Oaks).

P1: Climb the crack to the big ledge atop the Guide's Wall. 5.3, 50'

P2: Walk 10' right on the ledge. Face climb, trending right, 130' to the GT Ledge.

You could rap here, but then you'd miss the white tiered overhangs right above the GT ledge, which are fun and well protected (fixed angle pin and middle sized camalots).

From the clifftop, walk back left and rappel from bolts right of Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst.

Protection

Traditional Gunks rack, medium cams mostly. A few old pins.

Photos

Dana Marie
Cold Spring
Dana Marie   Cold Spring
I love this climb. Trending right on P2 rather than going straight up offers a nice alternative and gets you to the rappel tree without down climbing. Great pro at all 3 bulges. Apr 30, 2009
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.5
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.5
That white "bulge" at the top of p.2 is not to be missed - ridiculous 5.5 climbing. No need to downclimb to the tree out right, simple walk left to a station set up for a single 60m rope rap to the Hyjeck's tree. Apr 27, 2014

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