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Trad, 290 ft (88 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 2.8 from 145
FA: Willie Crowther, Gardiner and Mary Perry, 1958
> f. The Guides' Wall (…
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Locate a clean crack system leading past a big pine to a smaller one about 50' right of Minty. This pitch is often used by guides to toprope beginners.
P1: Climb the crack to the upper tree. 5.3, 80'. This pitch was highly impacted by massive rockfall in 2008. See comments below.
P2: Climb up a short corner (about 10'-15'), place a LONG runner, and traverse right about 15' to another corner. Place pro and commit to a "old school" gunks 5.4 move stepping right around the corner. Things ease up about 20' later and you can continue right and up to the GT Ledge at the base of a large corner. 5.5, 140'.
Not a pitch for a first 5.5 lead - the crux is very steep and even with the big jugs it's scary. Also, it's very easy to lock yourself down with rope drag on this pitch.
P3: Up the corner to the top. 5.3, 70'.
Descend either to the left (Minty) or the right (Madame G's). Or walk left to the Uberfall Descent. The Madame G's rap is better on weekends since it doesn't interfere with climbers coming up.
Standard Gunks rack; small cams will make you feel better at the crux.
[Hide Photo] A view of the entire route from the base of Hawk.
[Hide Photo] Hawk (5.4). With smart placements and long runners, the first two "guidebook" pitches are easily linked - preferable since the shady belay treed atop p. 1 were wiped out in 2008 rockfall.
[Hide Photo] 1st & 2nd Pitch, waiting for the party of 5 in front of us.. You can see about 4 people standing on the roomy ledge on top of the first pitch, while their leader starts the second pitch (I belie…