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Graveyard Shift

5.10d PG13, Trad, 80 ft,  Avg: 3.8 from 64 votes
FA: Russ Raffa & Rich Ross - 1978
New York > Gunks > Trapps > e. The Mac Wall (Some…
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details

Description

This is one of the rightmost climbs on the MF wall. It begins at a short, thin, black RP crack.

Climb this (somewhat scary), up to better gear and harder climbing. Lower off a two-bolt anchor. 5.10d, 80'.

Added from a local:

 Possibly the best route on the Mac wall, and that is saying something. A superb and rewarding lead that is hard to beat. While all the gear is good, it can be tricky to get; it can be slightly runout and the climbing is far from trivial. An excellent choice for those solid on hard 5.10

 Start as for Star Action. Climb straight up thin face about 15 feet to a very small ledge. From here climb the bulging face at a flake that is sitting on the small ledge. There is good gear to be had but it's strenuous to get; this section can be a little pumpy. Move slightly left and up to a small broken ledge and good rest. Continue up to the base of a nice left facing corner, get in some gear, and prepare to work up the tricky face just to the left of the corner. Next up is the crux overlap - get in bomber gear, and pull the technical and challenging sequence, moving up very slightly left and then back right, then follow a nice flake to just below the finish overhang. Pull over and traverse left to the chains shared with Star Action

Protection

Standard Rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Happy to have gear near by on the crux of Graveyard Shift!
[Hide Photo] Happy to have gear near by on the crux of Graveyard Shift!
Jug hold after crux
[Hide Photo] Jug hold after crux
Getting into the crux
[Hide Photo] Getting into the crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] GS is an exhilirating climb to which this post does not do justice. I don't remember much about the lower part but the crux roof is still clear. Good gear is to be had at the start of the (small) roof, so you feel well protected pulling the crux. The exhilirating part is that the next gear is probably 20 feet past the gear at the start of the roof; I recall it as one of those situations where each move is easier than the previous, but a pump begins to set in and your mind starts playing tricks. Jan 27, 2007
David Wilkerson
Rockville, MD
 
[Hide Comment] I agree with the last post, this is a great climb. Definitely one of the coolest cruxes on the Mac Wall. May 27, 2008
Greg Sudlow
PA
  5.10d PG13
[Hide Comment] Thrice the first comment above, it is a shame that original route post can’t be edited if they tell so little about the route. Nevertheless, this climb is one of the best in the Gunks with great variation, technical moves and stellar positioning. May 14, 2010
JSH

[Hide Comment] I asked a local dude, Dave, to supplement the description, and added it in italics above ... hope it helps! Jun 10, 2010
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
  5.10d PG13
[Hide Comment] A super climb. Not having the right sized cam at the crux made it pretty spicy. Aug 6, 2010
[Hide Comment] If you have tricams they go great at the crux Aug 7, 2010
bheller
SL UT
 
[Hide Comment] Great climb! I agree it is the best on the MF wall. Surprisingly technical at the crux. If you hang out too long figuring out the sequence the pump will sneak up on you. Not a handbag! Sep 3, 2010
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.10d PG13
[Hide Comment] 5 red c3s/green aliens - a new record! Mar 10, 2011
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.10d PG13
[Hide Comment] Quite a step up in commitment from Coexistence. It is more sustained, more technical, and definitely has larger fall/pendulum potential! Nothing bigger than a .75 c4 is necessary or even placable for that matter. Fantastic moves and position! This is as good as single pitch trad climbing gets! Apr 23, 2016