To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
Trad, 80 ft,
Avg: 3.8 from 64
FA: Russ Raffa & Rich Ross - 1978
> e. The Mac Wall (Some…
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
This is one of the rightmost climbs on the MF wall. It begins at a short, thin, black RP crack.
Climb this (somewhat scary), up to better gear and harder climbing. Lower off a two-bolt anchor. 5.10d, 80'.
Added from a local:
Possibly the best route on the Mac wall, and that is saying something. A superb and rewarding lead that is hard to beat. While all the gear is good, it can be tricky to get; it can be slightly runout and the climbing is far from trivial. An excellent choice for those solid on hard 5.10
Start as for Star Action. Climb straight up thin face about 15 feet to a very small ledge. From here climb the bulging face at a flake that is sitting on the small ledge. There is good gear to be had but it's strenuous to get; this section can be a little pumpy. Move slightly left and up to a small broken ledge and good rest. Continue up to the base of a nice left facing corner, get in some gear, and prepare to work up the tricky face just to the left of the corner. Next up is the crux overlap - get in bomber gear, and pull the technical and challenging sequence, moving up very slightly left and then back right, then follow a nice flake to just below the finish overhang. Pull over and traverse left to the chains shared with Star Action.