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Routes in i. High E

50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: FA: Ants Leemets, 60's. FFA: Dave & Jim Erickson, 1968
Page Views: 20,832 total, 145/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 6, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


410 Opinions

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Description

A great line with good protection within safe distance, all the way.

This climb is the major corner 25' left of the classic climb Bonnie's Roof, and just right of the Sleepwalk arete. A large tree grows near the base.

While there were lines on Bonnie's Roof on a crowded weekend when I was there, nobody was cued up for this climb.

P1: Stem and jam up the corner and finish up and left under the roof (crux) to reach a bolted belay station on the arete. 5.9, 80'.

Rap down or join Sleepwalk to reach the top of the cliff. Or you can continue up the fault straight above the route -- Cool Hand Duke (5.8).

From the anchor, one can TR Ent Line, on the steep wall left of Ants' Line, which I believe to be a play on names and words related to the large tree growing near the wall.

Protection

A standard light rack of nuts and cams to 3".
Did this as a warm-down one day - glad I jumped on it! As one of the few continuous cracks in the Gunks it made me appreciate the abudance of available gear options.

Would say this is a perfect route to get a new leader on. Good holds, solid moves - the crux is really only having the gumption to keep climbing on. Sep 25, 2017
Isara
  5.9
Isara  
  5.9
Fantastic line! Soft for grade at the Gunks; spot on anywhere else. Reminded me of an easy version of In Pursuit of Excellence at the T-Wall. You can sew this thing up the entire way. I think I put in 11 pieces of gear because for whatever reason it was called "PG" by the people around me and I wanted to place before I didn't have the chance. There are rests the ENTIRE WAY except the 7-ish move crux. Not pumpy if you find the rests. Classic! Do it! May 27, 2016
City Dweller
New York, NY
  5.9
City Dweller   New York, NY
  5.9
So good! Oct 9, 2015
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Great climb, lots of stances to place gear. Protects very well all the way up. I used a #3 at the crux, it's bomber. Jul 6, 2014
BROsenthal
Tarrytown, NY
BROsenthal   Tarrytown, NY
Fantastic pumpy route that has protection everywhere. *gear beta alert*
In addition to the #1 and #2 that you could get in on the inside of the overhang, the crux can be protected by a blue metolius mastercam at the leftmost point below the overhang. Slot it in from left to right and its bomber. Jun 23, 2014
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
 
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
 
Every move on this climb is sweet. If it's open, grab it. Aug 25, 2013
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Nothing too devious on this one for the solid 5.9 leader. If you can keep from getting pumped, you can figure it out. Sep 18, 2012
K Baumgartner
  5.9
K Baumgartner  
  5.9
Bring your A game and grab rests where you can get them. I sewed it up with mostly passive pro with a #2 Camelot for good measure at the roof crux. I was seriously pumped at the crux and was loosing grip on the undercling, so I went for the move and stuck it. Beware of a loose brick sized block right above the roof. It looks like it's not going anywhere soon, but it's pretty rattly. Aug 27, 2012
... added two new photos that show the location of the block, and its new resting place:

mountainproject.com/v/new_y…
mountainproject.com/v/new_y… Jun 14, 2010
Goran Lynch
Oakland, CA
Goran Lynch   Oakland, CA
I was belaying my partner (TR on a soggy day) when the block came off. He was fully above it at the time (very, very fortunate) and not touching it at all. I was belaying leaning against the more distant of two large boulders at the base and saw the block coming with enough time to jump out of the way. Good thing, too, since the block came to rest just about where I was standing.

I climbed the route shortly after the rockfall to scope out the rock scar and the (new) climbing. The entire block was attached by, at most, a few square inches of stone, and has probably been loose for a long time. Many people have yarded on it and placed gear behind it on lead; given the typically heavy traffic, it's fantastically lucky that nobody was hurt when the block decided to separate. The absence of the block revealed some good hand holds, but does make for awkward footing as you step over the newly formed overlap. The block's absence doesn't change the grade or character of the route at all.

A first-hand lesson in why you ought not tie your belayer down (or make sure they're way, WAY out of the fall-line) in a single-pitch climbing scenario. Jun 14, 2010
SethG  
Wow, big block. Thanks for the info. Jun 14, 2010
vanishing spy
  5.9
vanishing spy  
  5.9
Seth, you can see the block directly below the climber in this photo: mountainproject.com/images/…

It was the small roof above the first large one... You can actually see the fracture line on the right side of the block. It's on the right side of the dihedral. The block itself is about a foot high, 2 feet wide and 6 inches deep. This was an important hand and foot through this section, so yes, the climbing down low is different. I don't know if it'll be much more difficult. I didn't get on the climb that day. Jun 14, 2010
SethG  
Thank goodness no one was hurt.

Do you have any more information about the former location of the block? Is it visible in any of the posted photos? Does its absence change the climb? Jun 14, 2010
vanishing spy
  5.9
vanishing spy  
  5.9
On Sunday June 13th, 2010n a large block came off of Ant's Line. It now rests at the base of the climb. It came off in the rain as a party top-roped the wet route. This feature appeared solid but upon inspection (after it was on the ground) was nothing more than a poorly detached and heavy flake. The rock ripped a chunk out of the tree roots at the base of Ents Line. Fortunately and remarkably nobody was hurt. Jun 14, 2010
Goodhue
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Goodhue   Boulder, CO
  5.9
This climb was fantastic! Walking up to it, I turned the corner and the first sight of it stopped me in my tracks. What a gorgeous line! Even better, there was no one in sight. Good gear and fun stemming the whole way. Oct 23, 2008
eric larson
aurora, co
  5.9
eric larson   aurora, co
  5.9
one of the most aesthetic lines in the gunks... just screams "Climb me!" a certain must do for the 5.9 gunks climber Apr 22, 2008
JSH

JSH    
Tony, you must not be a local? This route is routinely gang-roped from dawn to dusk. It took me the better part of a season to find it free to lead. Late afternoon is a good time to seek it out, after the crowds have worn their friends out.

Please be courteous if you're going to TR this route, or Ents. Note: If you TR Ents, you *will* interfere with a leader on Ants - so don't do it. As a reminder, leaders have the right-of-way. (wonder how I know this?)

The route is steeper than pictures ever show it - when you lower off, you come out past the tree at the start. It's also a shady spot, nice in summer, brutal in winter. It can stay wet inside the corner longer than usual after a rain.

One final note: at my height (5'7" with a -2 ape), there's a steep 5.7/8 move to make before you can get gear in under the first roof, which is the first piece you'll want to place. After that, it's G all the way. Enjoy! Dec 28, 2007