Avg: 3.6 from 485 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||FA: Ants Leemets, 60's. FFA: Dave & Jim Erickson, 1968|
|Page Views:||24,976 total · 142/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Mar 6, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
This climb is the major corner 25' left of the classic climb Bonnie's Roof, and just right of the Sleepwalk arete. A large tree grows near the base.
While there were lines on Bonnie's Roof on a crowded weekend when I was there, nobody was cued up for this climb.
P1: Stem and jam up the corner and finish up and left under the roof (crux) to reach a bolted belay station on the arete. 5.9, 80'.
Rap down or join Sleepwalk to reach the top of the cliff. Or you can continue up the fault straight above the route -- Cool Hand Duke (5.8).
From the anchor, one can TR Ent Line, on the steep wall left of Ants' Line, which I believe to be a play on names and words related to the large tree growing near the wall.