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Routes in h. The Arrow Wall - CCK

Amber Waves of Pain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Andrew T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Annie Oh! T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arrow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
CCK Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cold Turkeys T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Crack' N Up T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Deep Lichen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Diana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Erect Direction T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face to Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast of Fools T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hans' Puss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawkeye T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jim's Gem T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keep on Struttin' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Will Be First, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Limelight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost and Found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Man's Quest for Flight T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Moby Dick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moonlight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Glow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nurse's Aid T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Proctor Silex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Proctoscope T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quiver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Red Pillar T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Silhouette T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smilin' the Hard Way T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Steep Hikin' T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Step Lively T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strolling on Jupiter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Supper's Ready T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Three Doves T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Vultures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Three Vultures Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Traverse of the Clods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Twilight Zone T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C1
Unholy Wick T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Updraft T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wop Stop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dick Williams, Dick DuMais, 1968
Page Views: 39,394 total, 274/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Feb 27, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

CCK is another Gunks ultra-classic. The exposed, exciting third pitch is one of the most memorable you'll ever do at the grade.

P1: Climb the short corner and angle up right to a left-facing corner. Climb the corner to a roof, then move left and climb a crack to the GT Ledge. Belay at a big oak tree with rap slings. 5.6 PG, 120'.

You can also climb the enjoyable first 5.8 pitch of Erect Direction, a crack system on the left wall of Updraft, to get to the GT ledge.

There are several options for the second pitch, with varying degrees of difficulty and protection.

P2, option 1: Take the Updraft corner to a belay ledge in the corner. Safe at PG and easy at < 5.5.

P2, option 2: From the oak tree rap/belay station, walk climber's right on the GT for about 20' to a pine tree. Climb past a short left-facing corner, with a thin crack to a stance at the overhang. Step right and climb past bulging rock (crux) to a stance. From here, diagonal up left to the belay ledge. This way is what Williams describes; you circumvent the crux overhang/notch of the third choice below, starting to the right and traversing left when you're above it. 5.7+ PG-R

P2, option 3: From the oak tree rap/belay station, climb straight up the rock directly behind the tree until it's obvious to traverse right under the overhang. Traverse either high or low (awkward either way) about 8' right, make a difficult mantle past a bulge, then trend left up to the belay. Protecting the second is difficult to do well here. This is the start of CCK Direct's second pitch, at 5.8+ PG-R.

Note: CCK Direct (5.9) continues straight up above the left-facing flakes and exits left out the roof.

P3, the money pitch: Make sure the belayer has a camera; this is one of the best photo-ops in the Gunks! Step down and make an exposed traverse to the right on small edges. Move up to a pin and make a big step right to a vertical flake and hand crack. Layback and jam up to a roof (crux), clip another fixed pin, and traverse right under the roof to a big ledge. 5.7+, 50'.

Descent: Walk right about 100' to a notch, and scramble down the notch to the bolted rappel route by The Last Will Be First. 3 rappels with one rope get you back down. Alternatively, head south: three rappels from bolted anchors over No Glow will get you to the ground with a single rope.

Protection

Standard Rack. A Ball Nut can be placed near the start of the third pitch before clipping the first pin.

Location

The CCK access trail is about a 15-min. walk from the Uberfall, and an 11-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Look for a huge boulder (with bouldering routes and chalk) on the left. The CCK trail starts just past the boulder.

At the cliff, go right and up to get to the start of the route. Locate a huge right-facing corner; this is the route Updraft. CCK starts about 15' right of Updraft, at a small left-facing corner.

Photos

banzai  
Climbed cck yesterday morning (oct 7). Team ahead of us left a cam. If it's yours, contact me with cam brand/size and where on the route you left it, and i'll be glad to return it!
Cheers Oct 8, 2017
Skip Thompson
  5.7+ PG13
Skip Thompson  
  5.7+ PG13
I had been saving this climb for an on-sight for a couple years, deliberately shushing my partners when they started to give beta, etc. And having just broken into leading Gunks 8's this season for real, as an on-sight CCK felt like it was somewhere between Moonlight and Limelight in terms of technical difficulty plus the freak-out factor. But it also felt as hard as Arrow, once moving up the flake / crack on Pitch 3. There's a "thank god" bomber #1 above the roof and right as you step up, which otherwise leaves you well above your last piece in the flake / crack. The two most difficult moves are the move up the flake / crack and holding out without pumping out to traverse right past where it intersects with the roof. Gotta reach up past that roof. Sep 21, 2017
Ben Falk  
 
The last pitch has got to be the best I've climbed at the Gunks. I wish I had a #2 camalot for the famous flake on pitch 3.

The two overhangs off the GT ledge (we went straight up from a big tree) were pretty serious for 5.8, with some grounder potential onto the ledge from the first overhang. The second was darn hard for 5.8, with almost no feet and a dead-hang high step on kind-of-ok, but not juggy, holds. If you're pumped here I wish you well! Oct 28, 2016
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
The 3rd pitch looks very intimidating from the belay, but isn't as hard as it looks. I got several pieces in at the traverse, small c-3s, and a small white tri cam (aid piece) plus the pin. There is a bomber finger-size placement in the horizontal under the crux flake (phew, some real gear)! The flake is super positive, protects well with a hand-size cam, and this is the last good gear you're going to get, so make sure it's good (doubling up pro here would be a good idea)! Climb the rest of the flake, run out the foot smearing traverse, or pump out trying to get in some more gear! Awesome route! May 21, 2015
cliffmama  
 
Another serious accident was on the start of CCK P2 off the GT ledge a couple of weeks ago (August 2014). It's confusing where to start (I think the Williams and Swain books say different things), hard to protect and not far off the GT ledge and a bad result if you fall.

I prefer to start in the Updraft corner for just a short distance, then diagonal across the face to meet up with CCK. Bypasses the dangerous moves off the GT ledge, easy climbing (5.5) and easy to protect.

Also, a great link-up is to lead P1 of Erect Direction (5.8), then scoot over to Updraft, a few feet of that off the GT ledge, then meet up with CCK's money pitch. Lots of excellent climbing, well protected, exciting exposure. One of my favorites. Aug 24, 2014
Cedric BG
New York, New York
  5.7+
Cedric BG   New York, New York
  5.7+
I agree with above comments about tricky moves on P2. I am 5'7" and found myself crimping on small holds up the bulge, although I don't think it was necessarily PG-13. P3 is obviously the money pitch, and found it much more straightforward than P2, even though the photos make it look spicy! All the holds and cracks are awesome and it eats pro.
One of the best climbs I've done in the Gunks, or anywhere at that grade! Jun 8, 2014
kenr  
P2 option 2 may indeed be better protected than the others as an option if you're 5ft9in -- but also pretty height/reach dependent if less than that. Pretty exciting at 5ft7in to lunge for the bigger more positive higher hold (sorta blind, up over the bulge). If much less than 5ft7in, making a long deadpoint for it must be just an act of faith. Sep 5, 2013
ADH
New York, NY
 
ADH   New York, NY
 
This is one of the most fun climbs I have ever done. I stepped right at the roof at the beginning of P2 and pulled the bulge, but I leaned out left and clipped the fixed nut first. I agree with the above comment that the bulge is the toughest part of the climb, but still pretty straightforward once you find the right holds. Nov 2, 2010
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.8+ PG13
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.8+ PG13
This was a super fun lead, it really lives up to its reputation. Something interesting on every pitch.

Regarding the P2 options, I did it by the book, as noted in #2 above. As I was perched below the bulge, feeling around for something positive above me, I was intrigued by the notch in the rock to my left. Someone had climbed there at some point, as there was a tiny fixed nut in the crack at the back of the notch. But the climbing there looked dubious, so I doubled up on pro and pulled the bulge move. I'd say that was the hairiest part of the whole route. Oct 10, 2010
SethG  
Consider me another climber confused about where the original CCK pitch 2 is supposed to go. Yesterday we were trying to do it, but after much debate did the direct start (Option 3 above) because it was the obvious line. My friend led it, not me, and I thought it would have been a nasty fall if he blew it at the overhang. The gear is there, but it is to the left as you pull the overhang and it isn't at all far to some ankle-breaking stuff. It's a challenging sequence, mostly in the moves to the right before you pull over. There are good feet but you can't see them! Oct 4, 2010
Matt Glue
Boulder, CO
Matt Glue   Boulder, CO
Just climbed it using Dick Williams' directions, option #2. I took just a single (crouched) step right from the stance, going up the bulging right side of the overhang, not any appreciable distance from the purple Camalot. I'm 6' and had to reach far and search to find the magic hold that makes it work. Apr 11, 2010
Michael G
  5.8 PG13
Michael G  
  5.8 PG13
As for the debate over the start of the second pitch: I took option #3, which was strenuous and a little heady. From what I can tell, the leaders that find themselves in R/X climbing get mixed up and end up on a "direct start" to overhang notch described in option three. So, instead of traversing to the notch from the left with good gear, they climb straight up to it from the pine tree on the GTL where gear is nonexistent. I'm guessing they just read the route incorrectly, thinking that they're on the original 5.7 PG line that Williams describes?

from the Admin: Michael G. gets kudos for clarifying & writing out the three options, which I've inserted above. Thanks, Michael! Jun 1, 2009
losbill
 
losbill  
 
It's a good idea to have belayer anchored firmly and closely to the tree. May or may not keep you off the deck but will keep your belayer from being dragged off the ledge if the green cam blows and you bounce over the edge off the ledge as happened to a party 3 or 4 years ago.

Regarding slings on the oak tree. Because they are there doesn't mean you should consider rapping down CCK, one of the most popular lines at the Gunks. As noted in the route description above, there is a bolted rap line to climber's right(north). If you have doubles a single rope rap will get you to the GT ledge bolted anchors and the doubles will get you to the ground from there. Apr 11, 2009
Goodhue
Boulder, CO
 
Goodhue   Boulder, CO
 
Did the Williams's second pitch. I went up from the pine tree and then moved a little left at an overhang. Went up trending left and then hand traversed into the normal belay alcove. Not sure if I did it right. Overall, my impression was that the third pitch was short and fun but the first two pitches did not excite me. Also, I was hung over. Oct 23, 2008
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
Linking 2-3 seems logical, way more classic, and going out left to the sling belay in the corner seemed pointless...except for photo ops from the belay. You can still go left after the mantle move with long runners to keep the difficulty low (skipping the sling belay) and then do the P3 traverse back right (to avoid CCK direct 5.9). Besides the photo op. from the belay it is a shame to break this nice pitch up.

Also agreed that falling at the 5.8 mantle move on P2 is not an option. Pretty sure you would hit the ledge below. May 1, 2008
CCK Direct finishes left instead of right at the final traverse. As nice as CCK is, the Direct is even better. This also cuts out a belay.

Be very careful on the PG13 move off the GT ledge - this was the scene of a serious accident. In my old age I refuse to lead this anymore and take the corner to the right instead - just as hard but protectable. Mar 1, 2006