Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 1,053 ft
GPS: 41.74421, -74.179
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 357,710 total · 2,240/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Mar 7, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

Along the Cliff Suggest change

Description Suggest change

Major Features: Corners! Aretes! and more corners! Oh boy!

This section starts with its namesake route, High Exposure, which starts up a major corner and cleft, heads out onto the adjacent face, and ... I won't spoil the rest here. High E is one of the classic airy Gunks 5.6 routes that you'll remember the rest of your life. Several other, harder classic routes nearby share the High E "money" pitch, including the Directissima arete and Directississima (aka Doubleissima).

To the right of the High E buttress start the many corners featured in this section of cliff. Ants' Line, Bonnie's Roof and Groovy are three corners you shouldn't miss! (and if you like those, make sure you head to the next section for The Spring (P1)).

Uphill from Groovy, you'll find In the Groove, then the gully-to-chimney of Silly Chimney, which marks the northern extent of this area. Past this, you'll see the yellow rock of the Yellow Wall.

Approach: The
High E approach trail. The next trail is [[Ant's Line/Bonnie's Roof]]112043502. scampers up in between boulder problems - as you're walking down the carriage road, look for the Twilight Zone roof, then the next huge buttress over a roof features "The Move" of High E.

The
Ant's Line / Bonnie's Roof approach trail. The next trail is [[Yellow Wall / Airy Aria]]112043520. down heads up directly to Ants' Line, and can also be used for High E.

Descent: The High E rappel line was one of the first sets of bolts to appear on the cliff. It heads down the gully to climber's right of High E; three rappels with one rope (if you're linking the last two raps, watch the rope ends) get you to the ground. It's a good idea to familiarize yourself with this rappel.

There is a set of bolts shared by the first pitches of Sleepwalk, Ent Line and Ants' Line.

You can also rappel from the top of Bonnie's Roof (two ropes mandatory - it's free-hanging the entire way) or Ursula (one rope from the top to a mid-cliff station).

The P1 anchor for Ursula, shared by Groovy is my least favorite in situ anchor on the cliff. It's webbing +/- rope wrapped around some very sharp edges; the fixed stuff has to be replaced almost yearly. Caveat emptor.

32 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: i. High E Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at High E

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1,782
High Exposure
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 329
Ursula
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 159
Groovy
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 480
Directissima
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 641
Bonnie's Roof
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 629
Ants' Line
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 107
Insuhlation
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 74
Obstacle Delusion
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 175
Teeny Face
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 271
Directississima (aka Doubleissima)
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Bonnie’s a Knockout
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 115
Ridicullissima
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 64
Space Invaders
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 123
Ent Line
Trad, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
 36
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
High Exposure
 1,782
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Ursula
 329
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Groovy
 159
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Directissima
 480
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Bonnie's Roof
 641
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Ants' Line
 629
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Insuhlation
 107
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Obstacle Delusion
 74
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Teeny Face
 175
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Directississima (aka Double…
 271
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Bonnie’s a Knockout
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Ridicullissima
 115
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Space Invaders
 64
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Ent Line
 123
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout
 36
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in High E »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading