Elevation: 1,053 ft
GPS: 41.744, -74.179 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 297,712 total · 2,321/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Mar 7, 2011 · Updates
Admins: RJ B, Morgan Patterson
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Along the Cliff

Description

Major Features: Corners! Aretes! and more corners! Oh boy!

This section starts with its namesake route, High Exposure, which starts up a major corner and cleft, heads out onto the adjacent face, and ... I won't spoil the rest here. High E is one of the classic airy Gunks 5.6 routes that you'll remember the rest of your life. Several other, harder classic routes nearby share the High E "money" pitch, including the Directissima arete and Directississima.

To the right of the High E buttress start the many corners featured in this section of cliff. Ants' Line, Bonnie's Roof and Groovy are three corners you shouldn't miss! (and if you like those, make sure you head to the next section for The Spring (P1)).

Uphill from Groovy, you'll find In the Groove, then the gully-to-chimney of Silly Chimney, which marks the northern extent of this area. Past this, you'll see the yellow rock of the Yellow Wall.

Approach: The
High E approach trail. The next trail is [[Ant's Line/Bonnie's Roof]]112043502. scampers up in between boulder problems - as you're walking down the carriage road, look for the Twilight Zone roof, then the next huge buttress over a roof features "The Move" of High E.

The
Ant's Line / Bonnie's Roof approach trail. The next trail is [[Yellow Wall / Airy Aria]]112043520. down heads up directly to Ants' Line, and can also be used for High E.

Descent: The High E rappel line was one of the first sets of bolts to appear on the cliff. It heads down the gully to climber's right of High E; three rappels with one rope (if you're linking the last two raps, watch the rope ends) get you to the ground. It's a good idea to familiarize yourself with this rappel.

There is a set of bolts shared by the first pitches of Sleepwalk, Ent Line and Ants' Line.

You can also rappel from the top of Bonnie's Roof (two ropes mandatory - it's free-hanging the entire way) or Ursula (one rope from the top to a mid-cliff station).

The P1 anchor for Ursula, shared by Groovy is my least favorite in situ anchor on the cliff. It's webbing +/- rope wrapped around some very sharp edges; the fixed stuff has to be replaced almost yearly. Caveat emptor.

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at High E

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 281
Ursula
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1,489
High Exposure
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 87
In The Groove
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 160
Sleepwalk
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 135
Groovy
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 417
Directissima
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 536
Bonnie's Roof
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 544
Ants' Line
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 62
Obstacle Delusion
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 93
Insuhlation
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 136
Teeny Face
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 232
Directississima
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 98
Ridicullissima
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 55
Space Invaders
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 105
Ent Line
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ursula
 281
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
High Exposure
 1,489
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
In The Groove
 87
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Sleepwalk
 160
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Groovy
 135
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Directissima
 417
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Bonnie's Roof
 536
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Ants' Line
 544
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Obstacle Delusion
 62
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Insuhlation
 93
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Teeny Face
 136
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Directississima
 232
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Ridicullissima
 98
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Space Invaders
 55
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Ent Line
 105
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
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