High E Rock Climbing
Routes in i. High E
|50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a|
|Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|GPS:||41.744, -74.179 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||115,434 total, 1,400/month|
|Shared By:||JSH on Mar 7, 2011|
Along the Clifflast area: Arrow Wall to CCK | next area: Yellow Wall and the Seasons
DescriptionMajor Features: Corners! Aretes! and more corners! Oh boy!
This section starts with its namesake route, High Exposure, which starts up a major corner and cleft, heads out onto the adjacent face, and ... I won't spoil the rest here. High E is one of the classic airy Gunks 5.6 routes that you'll remember the rest of your life. Several other, harder classic routes nearby share the High E "money" pitch, including the Directissima arete and Directississima.
To the right of the High E buttress start the many corners featured in this section of cliff. Ants' Line, Bonnie's Roof and Groovy are three corners you shouldn't miss! (and if you like those, make sure you head to the next section for The Spring (P1)).
Uphill from Groovy, you'll find In the Groove, then the gully-to-chimney of Silly Chimney, which marks the northern extent of this area. Past this, you'll see the yellow rock of the Yellow Wall.
Approach: The scampers up in between boulder problems - as you're walking down the carriage road, look for the Twilight Zone roof, then the next huge buttress over a roof features "The Move" of High E.
The down heads up directly to Ants' Line, and can also be used for High E.
Descent: The High E rappel line was one of the first sets of bolts to appear, courtesy of the Mohonk Preserve. It heads down the gully to climber's right of High E; three rappels with one rope (if you're linking the last two raps, watch the rope ends) get you to the ground. It's a good idea to familiarize yourself with this rappel.
There is a set of bolts shared by the first pitches of Sleepwalk, Ent Line and Ants' Line.
You can also rappel from the top of Bonnie's Roof (two ropes mandatory - it's free-hanging the entire way) or Ursula (one rope from the top to a mid-cliff station).
The P1 anchor for Ursula, shared by Groovy is my least favorite in situ anchor on the cliff. It's webbing +/- rope wrapped around some very sharp edges; the fixed stuff has to be replaced almost yearly. Caveat emptor.
Classic Climbing Routes at High E
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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