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Routes in i. High E

50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elevation: 1,053 ft
GPS: 41.744, -74.179 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 115,434 total, 1,400/month
Shared By: JSH on Mar 7, 2011 with updates
Admins: JSH

Along the Cliff

last area: Arrow Wall to CCK | next area: Yellow Wall and the Seasons

Description

Major Features: Corners! Aretes! and more corners! Oh boy!

This section starts with its namesake route, High Exposure, which starts up a major corner and cleft, heads out onto the adjacent face, and ... I won't spoil the rest here. High E is one of the classic airy Gunks 5.6 routes that you'll remember the rest of your life. Several other, harder classic routes nearby share the High E "money" pitch, including the Directissima arete and Directississima.

To the right of the High E buttress start the many corners featured in this section of cliff. Ants' Line, Bonnie's Roof and Groovy are three corners you shouldn't miss! (and if you like those, make sure you head to the next section for The Spring (P1)).

Uphill from Groovy, you'll find In the Groove, then the gully-to-chimney of Silly Chimney, which marks the northern extent of this area. Past this, you'll see the yellow rock of the Yellow Wall.

Approach: The scampers up in between boulder problems - as you're walking down the carriage road, look for the Twilight Zone roof, then the next huge buttress over a roof features "The Move" of High E.

The down heads up directly to Ants' Line, and can also be used for High E.

Descent: The High E rappel line was one of the first sets of bolts to appear, courtesy of the Mohonk Preserve. It heads down the gully to climber's right of High E; three rappels with one rope (if you're linking the last two raps, watch the rope ends) get you to the ground. It's a good idea to familiarize yourself with this rappel.

There is a set of bolts shared by the first pitches of Sleepwalk, Ent Line and Ants' Line.

You can also rappel from the top of Bonnie's Roof (two ropes mandatory - it's free-hanging the entire way) or Ursula (one rope from the top to a mid-cliff station).

The P1 anchor for Ursula, shared by Groovy is my least favorite in situ anchor on the cliff. It's webbing +/- rope wrapped around some very sharp edges; the fixed stuff has to be replaced almost yearly. Caveat emptor.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at High E

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ursula
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Exposure
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sleepwalk
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovy
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directissima
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ants' Line
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Obstacle Delusion
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Insuhlation
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Teeny Face
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Directississima
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Ridicullissima
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ent Line
Trad, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ursula 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
High Exposure 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
In The Groove 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Sleepwalk 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Groovy 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Directissima 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Bonnie's Roof 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Ants' Line 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Obstacle Delusion 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Insuhlation 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Teeny Face 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Directississima 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Ridicullissima 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Ent Line 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in High E »

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From the bolts to the right of the summit of High Exposure, three raps on 60m double ropes will get you to the ground. Jun 4, 2012

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