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Routes in i. High E

50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: 1984, Todd Swain
Page Views: 175 total, 31/month
Shared By: Valerie Bachinsky on Jun 2, 2017
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the broken chimney to a ledge, scramble up a slopey dirty ledge to the next short chimney. Go up the chimney (it was wet when we did it but had rained heavily the night before) and a corner to tree anchor.

One rap with 60 meter rope will get you down over Lichen 40 Winks.

There is a second 5.2 pitch which we chose not to do. If you want to climb it I suggest you bring some loppers. It looks as if it would be good with some cleaning.

Location

Start a few feet right of Alpine Diversions at the broken chimney

Protection

It felt G to me except on the first slopey dirt ledge (or as G as 5.4 gets with all the 'ledginess')

Photos

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Valerie Bachinsky
West Sand Lake, NY
 
Valerie Bachinsky   West Sand Lake, NY
 
I climbed this on a whim and thought the first pitch was worthwhile, with some good moves. It might be a good option in that area for 5.4 leaders, although the sloping dirt ledge atop the first chimney part may feel a bit sketchy to the new leader. The chimney above that ledge was dripping wet but it had rained heavily the night before; I can't say for sure if it is normally dry. Jun 2, 2017