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Routes in i. High E

50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Williams, Joe Bridges, Dave Craft, 1988
Page Views: 1,198 total, 12/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Oct 24, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Route description:

1. Start about 10 feet left of the outside corner that is 10 feet left of the start of Sleepwalk. Go straight up the face to the third overhang. Cross this (crux) then, most sensibly, go up and right to the Ants' Line bolts. 70 feet, 5.8-

2. Go straight up the face, staying 10-15 feet right of a large, bent pine tree. Climb easy rock past a clean, white section, go over a small roof (crux, a bit of loose rock) and then go past a second overhang and on to the top. It's much more pleasant and sensible to skip the second overhang and diagonal right to a very large pine. 5.7-, 60 feet.

From the clifftop, walk climber's left to the High Exposure rappel line.

Decent protection, decent climbing. Standard 'Gunks rack

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Sprax Lines
Brookline, MA
Sprax Lines   Brookline, MA
But pulling the second roof and then wandering through the lichen all the way to the GT Ledge is more fun! Aug 25, 2014