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Routes in i. High E

50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Loeks, Claude Suhl, 1973
Page Views: 4,570 total, 47/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Nov 11, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

1. Climb the large, right-facing flake to a ledge, move right to a large pine tree and belay. 60 feet, 5.4

2. Go easily to a large roof that is 20-25 feet or so above the tree. Once over the roof, climb a shallow open book and a crack system that leads to a 20-foot headwall. Up the headwall (crux) to a ledge, then diagonal up and left, simple climbing, to an obvious tree. 70 feet, 5.9

One rap to the ground with a 70 meter rope (but see conflicting reports below -ed), two raps with 60. The tree looks okay, but the next time I do this I'll walk over to the High E bolts.

Location

Go the base of High Exposure, then walk right for 150 feet or so and look for the large, obvious, right-facing flake.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos

chewtoynj
NJ
 
chewtoynj   NJ
 
This route, and Teeny Face, are two fantastic routes that get so little hype. Great rock, great moves, great gear, and a beautiful ledge to belay from with views of the second pitch of High E. Every time I lead it, it makes me feel like a hero. Sep 1, 2017
losbill
  5.9
losbill  
  5.9
Hey Seth we all have to go sooner or later. Hope your neck is feeling better. See you down there soon. Jun 21, 2017
SethG  
Bill you laid a rope down in your driveway?? Car oils are bad for ropes. I'm just saying, you are going to die. Jun 21, 2017
losbill
  5.9
losbill  
  5.9
So, I measured the BD rope in my apartment with a yardstick and I got 65m. I sent the BD rope back and they measured it to 72m.

Kalil please refer to Annex 2 Informative Annex on measuring ropes in this document.

The standard came to my attention last year. I had borrowed a light weight 60 meter line for an alpine adventure from a friend. I had the foresight to lay it out in the driveway and measure it before the trip. There was a rap on the planned route that would require all of 200 feet. It came to 184 feet.

I mentioned the event to a friend who is on the UIAA committee and he pointed out the standard. The measurement standard seems a little weird to me. But it will very likely account for the "shortage" in you line. My friend indicated that manufacturers for the most part err on the long side of rope length to reduce the number of inquires and returns associated with apparent "short" ropes. Jun 20, 2017
Kalil Oldham
Brooklyn, NY
 
Kalil Oldham   Brooklyn, NY
 
RAPPEL BETA:

I think this rap must be around 38 meters. Here's why: I've rappelled this line from the tree at the top several times with an Edelweiss 9.5mm 70m rope, even after I cut about a foot off each end, and it's close but it gets me down. However, last month, my new BD 9.6mm 70m left us with both ends about 10 feet off the ground, weighted. I've noticed some confusion about this in the comments as well. So, I measured the BD rope in my apartment with a yardstick and I got 65m. I sent the BD rope back and they measured it to 72m. Reluctantly, I trust their measurement more than my own. So, the rappel from the tree is more than 36 meters, and I'm estimating it's about 38m, making my older Edelweiss 9.5mm around 76 meters with stretch. I can only conclude, as other commenters have suggested, that some 70m ropes are longer than others. And some are longer than 70 meters. Watch your ends! Jun 20, 2017
Dana Bartlett   CT
 
The description is spare (in Dana's customary fashion) but since he mentions the shallow open book I think he is correctly describing Insuhlation not Teeny Face.

As usual, Seth is correct. Sep 24, 2014
SethG  
The description is spare (in Dana's customary fashion) but since he mentions the shallow open book I think he is correctly describing Insuhlation not Teeny Face. Sep 24, 2014
Byron Igoe  
 
Don't get confused for Teeny Face. The app has the lines clearly drawn. Sep 23, 2014
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.9
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.9
This climb is nice but somewhat boring (typical Gunks juggy overhanging crux) compared to the sibling Obstacle Delusion. The roof is quite easy and crux definitely at the top.

60m got us to the intermediate tree rappel station, 70m gets you to the ground. Jun 8, 2014
Dana Bartlett   CT
 
Some 70s are longer than others, I suppose. We had room to spare when we abseiled from the tree. May 1, 2014
fatum  
We had a 70 meter rope, but could not lower the leader all the way to the ground. Maybe like 15 - 20 feet short. The line was pretty straight. On rappel, you probably can get a little closer to the ground, but I still don't think it will reach it. Apr 28, 2014
The crux described is part of the route I led after cleaning, and called Martinie face (Teeny Face), after Martine Suhl, the niece of Claude Suhl, who did the first ascent of Insuhlation, which crosses under the face to the right to continue up the steep corner.a different route. Apr 26, 2014
divnamite
New York, NY
  5.9 PG13
divnamite   New York, NY
  5.9 PG13
I feel this route is way way easier than Obstacle Delusion. Excellent climbing with great pros. Jun 3, 2013
Dana Bartlett   CT
 
Perhaps I have a 70 that's longer than 70; we made it to the ground in one rap. Mar 20, 2012
Josh Janes    
 
The "headwall" at the top of the climb is the crux: Move slightly left onto the gorgeous orange face. Rapping/lowering with a single 70m rope leaves you 20+ feet above the ground - rap/lower to the tree on the ledge and then again to the ground. Feb 24, 2012
Dana Bartlett   CT
 
I'll definitely second the previous comment. Mar 27, 2011
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
 
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
 
In my opinion, this is by far one of the THE best 5.9s the Gunks has to offer! Mar 21, 2011