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Routes in i. High E

50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Bragg and Doug Strickholm (1980) P2: The Johns Stannard and Bragg (1975) P3: Bragg, Mark Robinson and Bob Murray (1978)
Page Views: 5,881 total, 79/month
Shared By: Evan Stevens on Oct 15, 2011
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

One of the best mini multi-pitch 'hard-person' routes. It is stellar from the word go.

P1. 5.11+ R. Spicy, hard crux-y face climbing pretty straight off the deck with a spindly tree directly behind you (to escape to, or stem off of!). After 25-30' you join the standard first pitch of Directissima. You can start on that route if you are spooked by the hard-to-protect first 30'. We didn't stop to belay, just linked it into the 'Ridiculissima pitch (beta on this site.)

P2 5.11+ 70'. Start the same as High E but step a foot or two left and up to an easy stance. Pull through the roofs, then traverse right a body length or two, and then straight up and over to the top.

Descent: rappel the High E bolts to climber's right.

Location

Start 5 feet right of Directissima, and 10 feet right of High E.

Protection

Standard gunks rack. Double small and medium cams, single set of hand sized gear, slings, nuts, etc...

Photos

B Rick
Philadelphia
B Rick   Philadelphia
What a wild route. I think the wires would hold a fall on the first pitch but heads up for dicey easier climbing above. The 3rd pitch was awesome but a bit dirty with an element of difficult route finding. Aug 26, 2017
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.11c R
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.11c R
If you're looking for some good airy pendulum potential fun, the last pitch of this route for you! So good!! I placed a pair of oppositional DMM rps on rappel that seemed pretty damn bomb on the first pitch. I personally would definitely have to do some 5.11 moves (with more to go) before getting them in to get the good holds to place them off of. Aug 10, 2017
Josh Janes    
 
When I did this route I checked out the gear placements on the first pitch on rappel. I felt the RP was good but, as Jon mentioned, difficult to place properly, and if it broke or fell out you'd be in a world of hurt. If I was local and it wasn't the middle of the hot, sweaty summer, I would have perhaps spent some time rehearsing this section. Instead I came up with another solution: I climbed a ways up Directissima from the ground and placed a good cam with a sling and then down-climbed. Then I started up Enduroman with decent toprope pro through the lower crux.

The third pitch is wild and well-protected. Jun 17, 2016
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
 
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
 
Perhaps the best route (certainly one of the wildest) of the approximately 150 I've done so far at the Gunks. The P1 crux protects reasonably well with an RP . It does take some dicking around to get it in. However, it's probably best to make the moves and avoid testing it. P2 is fun and well protected. P3 is freaking awesome; hard and committing with an opportunity for some big air. May 8, 2012