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Routes in i. High E

50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: John Bragg, Bob Murray, and Mark Robinson (1979)
Page Views: 3,485 total, 31/month
Shared By: jd4567 on Aug 17, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


77 Opinions

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Description

This pumpy route climbs the face left of Ants' Line. Start to the left of the tree, make some 10d moves, and join Ants' Line at its crux. Going up directly to the anchor ups the ante to 11b.

Protection

Often top-roped -- one can access the two-bolt anchor via Ants' Line or Sleepwalk. Otherwise, standard rack with some small pieces.

Photos

cPay
Riverdale, NY
  5.10d PG13
cPay   Riverdale, NY
  5.10d PG13
The crux of this route is soo much fun, definitely one of the best 5.10d routes in the gunks. I think the ledge/tree increased the enjoyment. I was scared making those moves with gear a ways below, but kept calm and a thank-you jug awaits. Bold for sure, I haven't tried the direct version. Apr 29, 2014
I think the R may come more from the tree and even the ledge then any lack of gear. There is a good portion of the climb if you come off there is a good chance of hitting the tree. Dec 3, 2012
i thought this route was more of a pg rating? seemed like it takes pretty good gear most the way. Dec 3, 2012
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11- R
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11- R
The direct finish is the way to go as it keeps the climb as an independent line. If you pitch when pulling over the roof you will likely hit the tree and the ledge. Jul 18, 2011
JSH

JSH    
NB that no matter how pumped out of your mind you may find yourself on this route: if you're on TR, you do not have the right-of-way over a leader on Ants' Line.

This may sound 'duh', but ... happened to me, and it was like the guy didn't even see me! Jul 31, 2009
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.10d R
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.10d R
Despite the R rating, if you have a cool head, and don't mind well spaced, yet solid, gear and a 15-20 foot runout at the end, this route should be in the bag for ya.

A great line up a beautiful piece of rock. Start on the left side of the Ent tree grown into the foot of the wall. The route consists of a devious and sequential crux about 35 feet up followed by a nice rest out right, then hard moves to gain the large horizontal. The pump crux and runout appear above the horizontal where the difficulty options present themselves to you. Aug 23, 2008