Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: John Bragg, Bob Murray, and Mark Robinson (1979)
Page Views: 3,889 total · 31/month
Shared By: jd4567 on Aug 17, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


78 Opinions

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Description

This pumpy route climbs the face left of Ants' Line. Start to the left of the tree, make some 10d moves, and join Ants' Line at its crux. Going up directly to the bolt anchor ups the ante to 11b.

Protection

Often top-roped -- one can access the two-bolt anchor via Ants' Line or Sleepwalk. Otherwise, standard rack with some small pieces.

Photos

Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
  5.10d R
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
  5.10d R
Despite the R rating, if you have a cool head, and don't mind well spaced, yet solid, gear and a 15-20 foot runout at the end, this route should be in the bag for ya.

A great line up a beautiful piece of rock. Start on the left side of the Ent tree grown into the foot of the wall. The route consists of a devious and sequential crux about 35 feet up followed by a nice rest out right, then hard moves to gain the large horizontal. The pump crux and runout appear above the horizontal where the difficulty options present themselves to you. Aug 23, 2008
JSH

JSH    
NB that no matter how pumped out of your mind you may find yourself on this route: if you're on TR, you do not have the right-of-way over a leader on Ants' Line.

This may sound 'duh', but ... happened to me, and it was like the guy didn't even see me! Jul 31, 2009
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11- R
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11- R
The direct finish is the way to go as it keeps the climb as an independent line. If you pitch when pulling over the roof you will likely hit the tree and the ledge. Jul 18, 2011
i thought this route was more of a pg rating? seemed like it takes pretty good gear most the way. Dec 3, 2012
I think the R may come more from the tree and even the ledge then any lack of gear. There is a good portion of the climb if you come off there is a good chance of hitting the tree. Dec 3, 2012
Christopher Payan
Bronx, NY
  5.10d PG13
Christopher Payan   Bronx, NY
  5.10d PG13
The crux of this route is soo much fun, definitely one of the best 5.10d routes in the gunks. I think the ledge/tree increased the enjoyment. I was scared making those moves with gear a ways below, but kept calm and a thank-you jug awaits. Bold for sure, I haven't tried the direct version. Apr 29, 2014
artem Vasilyev
New York, NY
  5.11a/b R
artem Vasilyev   New York, NY
  5.11a/b R
If you trend right - I would agree with the 5.10d rating, though very pumpy and sustained. Otherwise, if you climb directly up through the small roof, it is definitely a stiff 5.11 a/b.

Easily R rated due to what would be a 20-30ft whip from the crux directly into a tree if you mess it up. However, all of the gear is bomber (I mock placed on TR). Committing crux - if you lead this from the ground up, then you are a badass. Dec 7, 2017