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Routes in i. High E

50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jim McCarthy, Bob & Jane Culp, 1963
Page Views: 3,922 total, 28/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on May 31, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

I think the old guide book put this at 5.8 and the new one has it at 5.8+. If you have trouble hand jamming and don't know how to smear, it will feel more like 5.9.

P1: Follow the left-arching finger crack past a roof and up to a belay ledge. There is an anchor just before the roof but don't stop there, it's cheating! Finish by turning the corner and heading up to another set of fixed anchor. 5.8+, 70'.

Location

40' right of Bonnie's Roof at a left-facing corner capped by a roof.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
  5.8+
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
  5.8+
Tat after the traverse is gone. This would be a great climb for someone working into the 8's. It's short, protects well and stances are good (crux is a bit burly...work out your gear prior to making the moves). Jul 6, 2014
JSH

5.9
JSH    
5.9
The "consensus grade" above has just been changed to be the median of the "your rating" contributions - so yes, enter away! Then go over to Modern Times, High E, etc, and enter away there ... Jun 27, 2014
losbill
  5.8+
losbill  
  5.8+
A great stemming corner with a thoughtful moment or two getting things sorted out under the roof before escaping left, up and out. Definitely one of those pitches that leaves you wishing it were longer!

Regarding grading wouldn't it be more useful to add your contribution under the "Your rating" rather than expressing your opinion only as a comment? Everyone's experience is different and the consensus opinion, at least for me, is a valuable data point. Jun 25, 2014
jdrago
Rosendale, NY
jdrago   Rosendale, NY
I agree with 5.8+ rating if not 5.9. If Bonnies gets a 5.9 then this is 5.9. I felt this was on par or slightly harder than Bonnies Roof but there is gear everywhere. Jun 25, 2014
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  5.8
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  5.8
This is a great route for the aspiring 5.8 leader. Gear is plentiful and stemming the corner, eases the grade back quite a bit. Mar 21, 2011
doligo
  5.8
doligo  
  5.8
Agree with Analogical - one of the easier .8s in the Gunks. You can stem the whole thing up and over, even the traverse if you have flexible hips. Nov 22, 2010
I would agree with the 5.8 rating, and it's not even hard 5.8. Rating Groovy, which has one solid 5.8 handjam move, as harder than Double Crack, say, or Modern Times, seems strange to me.

Groovy Direct, as my friends have come to call the "10a variation," seems more like 9+ at the most, but I'm not going to argue as vehemently. I'm curious, though; have the people calling it 10a led it? I have. It's G, by the way, if you find the right placement. Oct 11, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
  5.8+
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
  5.8+
Did the 10 variation; once you finish the traverse, head straight up over the roof (go right and then up). It's juggy and fun. Aug 24, 2010
Larry S
Easton, Pennsylvania
Larry S   Easton, Pennsylvania
I'd say it's at least a 9. Felt harder than both ant's line and directissima. Pro is very good though. You can definitely sew it up if you find you're in too deep. Aug 2, 2010
Anthony Baraff
Paris, France
 
Anthony Baraff   Paris, France
 
Every time I do this route my #3 finds a home and I'm pretty certain that I could get a #4 to go in the traverse crack with little trouble.

There's a really good 10a variation with decent gear that goes straight through the roof. You get all of the crux moves of Groovy plus another 10 or so feet of interesting climbing after the Groovy crux instead of the 5.3 finish after the traverse. Just be sure to appropriately sling your gear under the roof to avoid rope drag. Sep 28, 2009
Michael John Gray
Queensbury, NY
  5.8+
Michael John Gray   Queensbury, NY
  5.8+
Laybacking is the way to go... jamming it is tough. Finishing on the Second pitch of Ursula makes it a well rounded nice classic climb. Mar 8, 2009
Michael G  
 
Hand jamming isn't necessary...I just lay-backed across the overhang to the outside corner. Clip the sling nest and swing over! Sep 9, 2008
JSH

5.9
JSH    
5.9
I have no trouble hand jamming or with corners, but I still count Groovy as 5.9, as does at least one guidebook. The initial corner is quite straightforward, and is not the crux. Moving up into the traverse, and getting across it, is steep (and awkward) climbing on a few not-so-great feet, until you've moved past the sling salad. These moves add up to 5.9.

Carefully inspect the sling salad rap station above P1: there are sharp edges in the constriction that's slung, and over the years I've seen it saw through a few slings. Hopefully the Preserve will add bolts here eventually, as this is an objectively more dangerous rap station than many others. Sep 2, 2007