Avg: 3.9 from 76 votes
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft|
|FA:||Kevin Bein and Vern Clevenger, 1977|
|Page Views:||9,964 total · 60/month|
|Shared By:||Mr. Malloc on Nov 17, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Bear gently left from the Directississima start until you come up to the ledge that some books recommend belaying from (I don't - this belay sucks!). From this ledge there is an obvious crack, 5 feet to the left of Doubleissima and 3 feet to the right of the hand traverse of Directissima. Follow a beautiful arching line, almost to the Directissima arete and then back towards the left side of the Doubleissima face.
Rappel via the High E bolted rappel.