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Routes in i. High E

50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Kevin Bein and Vern Clevenger, 1977
Page Views: 7,280 total, 54/month
Shared By: Mr. Malloc on Nov 17, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


58 Opinions

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Description

Your best bet is to do this as one pitch from the ground to the Grand Traverse ledge.

Bear gently left from the Directississima start until you come up to the ledge that some books recommend belaying from (I don't - this belay sucks!). From this ledge there is an obvious crack, 5 feet to the left of Doubleissima and 3 feet to the right of the hand traverse of Directissima. Follow a beautiful arching line, almost to the Directissima arete and then back towards the left side of the Doubleissima face.

Location

Start is the same as Doubleissima.

Protection

Trad gear, regular rack. Gear is as good as you want, if you don't get pumped.
Systematic
  5.10d PG13
Systematic  
  5.10d PG13
So fun. Slightly more pumpy than its neighbor.

  • **Gear beta***

Extra green + yellow alien pieces useful. Nov 6, 2017
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.10d PG13
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.10d PG13
P1 as described in grey Williams is PG13/R. You get a solid #1 C4 about 3/4 up and then have a significant run up to your next piece over 5.8 ground. Other than that, the rest of the route protects beautifully. I built a bomber anchor on the ledge with 3 tricams (brown, red and pink) in the horizontal crack at the back. I left my #3 C4 on the ground and didn't regret it; could've placed it but not necessary.

The 2nd crux moves are beautiful, pumpy and steep. Jun 23, 2014
Dan Flynn
MA
  5.10c/d
Dan Flynn   MA  
  5.10c/d
Direct start (5.8+ in grey dick) doesn't protect as well as doublissima start, but keeps the rope drag down.

Also, in the route sorting this should be left (above) Directississima. Sep 18, 2012
Tripleissima, I believe, starts on this route but goes directly between Ridiculissima and Doubleissima. Apr 2, 2011
paulmadry
  5.10b PG13
paulmadry  
  5.10b PG13
It felt more obvious and easier that Directissima,, but that's just me. Aug 1, 2010
David Wilkerson
Rockville, MD
  5.10+
David Wilkerson   Rockville, MD
  5.10+
Ridicullisma is also the second pitch for Enduro Man. Jun 18, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
Easily the best non-roofy 'hard' route I've done at the Gunks. The rock is absolutely stellar, the moves are challenging and the gear is plentiful. This & Doublissima are absolute must-do routes.

I believe this is the line that Todd Swain refers to as "Triplissima", though he calls that 5.11-, R, which is a bit over the top for this line. Jun 14, 2009