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Routes in i. High E

50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Herr Krauss, 1941
Page Views: 2,700 total, 30/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Jun 9, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Back in the old days, when men were men and before rap stations festooned the edge of the cliff, you hiked back down after finishing a climb. If you were over by High Exposure or Bonnie's Roof, the "walk" down was Silly Chimney.

Many years ago as I was just starting to climb in the Gunks, my partner (a seasoned local) and I had just climbed Airy Aria. After we had coiled up the ropes, he said "follow me" and we were soon at an apparently vertical part of the cliff, right next to the Yellow Wall. Undaunted, he found the top of a chimney and promptly disappeared. This looked crazy - exposed and scary. Not wanting to look like a wuss, I jumped in after him and started slithering down the chimney. Amazingly, holds appeared as needed and there was always something solid to grab at the exposed part. Much faster than fooling around with a rap.

Since then, I've used this climb to scare visiting climbers and amaze locals with the possibility of a quick descent when all the rap stations are crowded.

Location

Obvious corner between Bonnie's Roof and The Yellow Wall. The lower part is a gully - the chimney section starts about 50' up.

Protection

Standard gunks rack, I suppose ...

Photos

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JSH

JSH    
Sounds a bit like the descent from Tahquitz. First time I was up on top of that hunk of rock, we walked around for hours looking for something obvious. Thankfully another climber came along and led us down a chimney that we would never have dropped into by our own accord! Jun 10, 2010