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Routes in i. High E

50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Art Gran, Al DeMaria & Jim Mays 1963
Page Views: 2,930 total, 32/month
Shared By: SethG on Jun 9, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Ascending an appealing natural line, In The Groove climbs an obvious corner with nice moves on the easy side of 5.6, and is a good warm-up for other nearby climbs.

P1: Start up the corner, using the crack and face holds on the left to advance. At the roof about 15-20 feet up step left and continue following the corner upwards. There is a crux bulge, but in my opinion all of the climbing is pretty straightforward 5.6 or easier, and is well-protected. As you get higher there are numerous left-facing flakes in the corner that provide good holds. At about the 80 foot level, there is a dirt ledge at which you can build an optional gear belay-- I did not; I finished the climb as a single pitch.

Original P2: A shorter, easier pitch. After a few more moves upward, the rock to the right eases off to a stairway of blocks up which it is easy to climb to a large oak tree with a rap station. Dick Williams describes this as a dying oak tree in his 2004 guide but as of June 2010 it seemed to me to be very much alive and thriving (but see comment below; as of 2013, not so alive). From here, a single 60 meter rope rap just makes it to the ground.

Direct finish: Williams describes a new direct finish in his 2004 guide, which climbs straight up from the end of pitch 1 to a small roof (crux), after which one climbs straight to the top.

I explored up to the roof, found the hold just under the roof to be a bit less of a jug than I expected, and then couldn't tell where to go. There is a lot of lichen over the roof and it seemed unclear to me whether to go left or right; there were no obvious holds I could see. It did not appear this variation had seen a ton of traffic. The tree at the top is higher than the traditional finish, so you will likely need two ropes to rap, or you can walk a short distance to the Ursula rap station, which will get you down with a single rope in two raps.

Location

About 45 feet to the right and uphill from Groovy, at the obvious clean, left-facing corner with a roof above at 15-20 feet and numerous left-facing flakes above that.

Protection

Standard rack. Plenty of pro.

Photos

gcap
Tuxedo, NY
gcap   Tuxedo, NY
The old oak tree as described by Williams is in fact dead. Tons o sling on it + rings, but I wouldn't trust it. Give it a few knocks and you'll probably come the same conclusion. Scramble past it or finish with direct. Oct 27, 2013
One of the few routes to be downgraded from its original rating. It was 5.7 in the 1964 guide. May 17, 2013
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
It was wet so we detoured left a bit at the start. Linking the pitches worked well with a 60m rope. The route eats pro. I placed 14 pieces in 140 feet and was running low towards the end. Plan accordingly and consider rope drag. The direct finish is a little dirty but worth it and allows you to avoid the healthy/dying/dead oak tree. A loose protruding rock will wake you up when you step on it but does not seem ready to fall. Belayed from a nearby sturdy tree. There are 2 other tree rapp stations in sight but we used the High E rapp which is 35 yards climbers left. Nov 6, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
I've done the direct and traditional P2 (linking P1 and 2). The direct goes through the roof about 80 feet up (above a good optional belay ledge as described). It can be done, there are hands and the sequence adds up to 5.6 for me (tall/long reach). My follow was shorter and had to move left to take the traditional way up.

The traditional route goes left of the roof 80 feet up. It's a little runout but no ledge fall (can protect under the left end of the roof, just extend those runners!). Extend everything after this as well to avoid massive rope drag potential if linking the pitches. Haven't done the GT ledge finish since the tree up and right is comfortable and has rap rings.

The original start is almost always wet, needs a week of dry weather to be climbable. Not sure how good the moves are but the rest of the climb is great for the grade. Apr 30, 2012
doligo
  5.6
doligo  
  5.6
Nice climb but is a bit on a loose side, not something I'd feel comfortable running out or having an inexperienced belay on. I did the climb in one long pitch with a 60M rope all the way to the GT Ledge via the Direct Finish as per Dick Williams. I went straight up the last bulge/overhang over a shallow openbook - took me a while to figure it out as the holds are not obvious (like Seth said the jugs you reach for turn out to be slopers, but found a little key side pull that put the climb back into the 5.6 territory). The climb tops out 15 feet right from Ursula tree anchor. Jul 26, 2011
LLee
New York, New York
LLee   New York, New York
A very nice climb. It was a little dirty, but with some fun moves. I did the original route which supposedly leads to a dead tree, but it looked pretty alive to me. It sits on a small but comfortable ledge directly above Silly Groove. Sep 1, 2010
JSH

JSH    
The start is often non-negotiably wet in early season (or winter, when one might use, say, golf shoes. Who knows?).

The rock on P2 is very suspect in places - my second broke a hold and fell, quite unexpectedly. Jun 9, 2010