In The Groove
Avg: 2.2 from 65 votes
Routes in i. High E
|50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a|
|Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Art Gran, Al DeMaria & Jim Mays 1963|
|Page Views:||2,930 total, 32/month|
|Shared By:||SethG on Jun 9, 2010|
DescriptionAscending an appealing natural line, In The Groove climbs an obvious corner with nice moves on the easy side of 5.6, and is a good warm-up for other nearby climbs.
P1: Start up the corner, using the crack and face holds on the left to advance. At the roof about 15-20 feet up step left and continue following the corner upwards. There is a crux bulge, but in my opinion all of the climbing is pretty straightforward 5.6 or easier, and is well-protected. As you get higher there are numerous left-facing flakes in the corner that provide good holds. At about the 80 foot level, there is a dirt ledge at which you can build an optional gear belay-- I did not; I finished the climb as a single pitch.
Original P2: A shorter, easier pitch. After a few more moves upward, the rock to the right eases off to a stairway of blocks up which it is easy to climb to a large oak tree with a rap station. Dick Williams describes this as a dying oak tree in his 2004 guide but as of June 2010 it seemed to me to be very much alive and thriving (but see comment below; as of 2013, not so alive). From here, a single 60 meter rope rap just makes it to the ground.
Direct finish: Williams describes a new direct finish in his 2004 guide, which climbs straight up from the end of pitch 1 to a small roof (crux), after which one climbs straight to the top.
I explored up to the roof, found the hold just under the roof to be a bit less of a jug than I expected, and then couldn't tell where to go. There is a lot of lichen over the roof and it seemed unclear to me whether to go left or right; there were no obvious holds I could see. It did not appear this variation had seen a ton of traffic. The tree at the top is higher than the traditional finish, so you will likely need two ropes to rap, or you can walk a short distance to the Ursula rap station, which will get you down with a single rope in two raps.