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Routes in i. High E

50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Joe Bridges, Dave Craft and Dick Williams, 1988
Page Views: 1,414 total, 38/month
Shared By: Rob Griffiths on Nov 11, 2014
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

CHD is noted by Dick Williams as a top pitch to a variety of routes including the notable Ants' Line(5.9) and Sleepwalk, an underrated slab/arete. It climbs from the Ants Line bolted anchor upwards and right through a steep face filled with jugs and other positive holds. The rock quality is outstanding and gear is abundant in all the right places.

Location

Climb the first pitch of Sleepwalk or Ants' Line. From the double-bolt anchor stance, angle up and right pulling on steep holds. The route goes up the obvious face/fault that is basically above Ants' Line.

Protection

A standard rack should get you through, but double the smaller pieces (BD.3-1) if linking this with Sleepwalk (5.7). A fair number of 60cm runners eliminated rope drag with the Sleepwalk/CHD link up.

Photos

losbill  
Thanks for the reply Seth. I will certainly defer to Dana given his history with and knowledge of all things Gunks. But if CHD ends where Bonnie's ends how does Dick give CHD 90' and the Original route only 60'? I'm coming to the conclusion Dick's description and photo are just a bit confusing. Apr 6, 2013
SethG  
As Ben notes, the Cool Hand Dukes fracture does go right through the letter "F" on the picture. (The "F" is there for The Throne, the climb just to the right).

The "B" line in the book (on p. 442) is not Cool Hand Dukes. It is the traditional continuation of Sleepwalk, which Dick now describes as a variation. There is no line drawn for Cool Hand Dukes, but if you look at the photo you can see a very faint line that is the fracture followed by the pitch. And the pitch takes you to the Bonnie's tree, as I mentioned, but of course you could keep going higher, as maybe losbill did lo those many years ago.

I followed Dana up this pitch again last year and I stand by my earlier remarks in every respect! A juggy good time and the pro is fine! It is steep. Keep moving. Apr 6, 2013
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
CHD doesnt appear to be drawn into my copy of grey dick. there is a letter F (pg443) directly over the vertical fracture of CHD. i think seth and i have differnt definitions of "jug haul" i dont remember being super excited about the gear. Apr 5, 2013
losbill  
I'm confused. It has been a number of years since I have attempted to do Cool Hand Dukes but as I recall my attempt brought me pretty far to the right of the big pine tree marking the end of the original P2. I ended up above Bonnie's P2 finish on white stacked blocks. I recall thinking the rock was scary and the pro was lousy, particularly as I attempted to continue up and right. Bailed left pretty much horizontally about 12 to 17 feet to the big pine tree.

Seth what book are you referring to? The Gray Dick seems to show CHL finishing significantly above the finish to P2 of Bonnie's. Apr 5, 2013
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
I thought the rock was good on cool hand dukes. Gotta say it's a pumpy climb with some small crux gear and hard for 8 even by Gunks standards. In fact, I thought it was a grade harder and much pumpier than double crack, which I climbed directly after. I think I have a legit case for calling this a sandbag, something I don't usually do. Whatever, though, its a fun time and a good second pitch to sleepwalk or ants. Ursula rap is convenient if you only have one rope (climber's right from top of cool hand). Apr 4, 2013
SethG  
If you look at the picture in the book you'll see how Cool Hand Dukes ends at the same place as Bonnie's, and the rings/slings to the right are the Bonnie's rings/slings. The right edge of the buttress climbed by Cool Hand Dukes is the Bonnie's 5.7 arete. You need two ropes to use the Bonnie's station -- it is all air to the ground, well over 100 feet. Apr 12, 2011
Recent Williams' Guides recommend finishing Sleepwalk with this second pitch (Cool Hand Dukes, 5.8). I've looked at this 2 times now and the start up through the "vertical fault" contains some very questionable rock IHMO. Apr 24, 2008