Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Wharton, F. Adams, B. Adams, Al Alvarez, 1958
Page Views: 11,985 total · 70/month
Shared By: Bob Hayes on Jul 9, 2006
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

The first pitch is a bit more devious than it looks from the ground. The crux corner of this pitch felt thin and challenging for the grade. The belay ledge is plush for the changeover. 5.5, 80'.

P1. Climb the right-facing corner, ramp and crack past a thin open book (left of the sentry box) and up to a stance. From here, sling everything long, traverse right 20', then up an easy chimney to a belay ledge and fixed slings.

P2. Pull over a nice bulge and go straight up to the GT ledge via some fantastic face climbing. 5.5, 100'.

Rappel the route in 2x60m (tree at top is dead as of 2015) or walk south to the High E rappel line.

Overall it's a great line; each pitch has its own distinct character.

Location

Start in the first of two right-facing corners 25' right of the classic Bonnie's Roof.

Protection

Solid pro is available where you need it, but can sometimes be a bit tricky to place. Small wires helpful on the first pitch. Otherwise a standard Gunks rack is perfect.

Photos