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Routes in i. High E

50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Wharton, F. Adams, B. Adams, Al Alvarez, 1958
Page Views: 9,770 total, 71/month
Shared By: Bob Hayes on Jul 9, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


202 Opinions

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Description

The first pitch is a bit more devious than it looks from the ground. The crux corner of this pitch felt thin and challenging for the grade. The belay ledge is plush for the changeover. 5.5, 80'.

P1. Climb the right-facing corner, ramp and crack past a thin open book (left of the sentry box) and up to a stance. From here, sling everything long, traverse right 20', then up an easy chimney to a belay ledge and fixed slings.

P2. Pull over a nice bulge and go straight up to the GT ledge via some fantastic face climbing. 5.5, 100'.

Rappel the route in 2x60m (tree at top is dead as of 2015) or walk south to the High E rappel line.

Overall it's a great line; each pitch has its own distinct character.

Location

Start in the first of two right-facing corners 25' right of the classic Bonnie's Roof.

Protection

Solid pro is available where you need it, but can sometimes be a bit tricky to place. Small wires helpful on the first pitch. Otherwise a standard Gunks rack is perfect.
Pierce L   NY
My 4th trad lead. I found it fairly nice. I think the route is pretty close to 5.6. Used a standard rack used mostly my nuts maybe 1 small x4 cam and a marginal #3 on the second pitch. Rapped using a 60 and 70 together to get to the ground didn't stop at the ledge. Sep 6, 2017
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.7
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.7
Perhaps one of the biggest sandbags I know of in the Gunks... Great route but it's not 5.5 Feb 22, 2016
Will Cohen
  5.7
Will Cohen  
  5.7
This is my 3rd season leading, and I'm breaking into the 5.9 range, and I would not call this a gimme at even 5.7 on the route I used. This was the last climb of a fairly big day, but I was hoping for the happy 5.5 that the local guide told us this would be. I echo the comments above. 5.5 leaders be warned. Jun 21, 2015
The tree in the above 2 comments is now dead. Probably will be useably solid for another year though. May 22, 2015
Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.6
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.6
The rappel option Justin Compton speaks about is also good for a 60m. You'll have to very easily downclimb the last 7 or 8 feet, and it's a single rappel. Better than rappeling down Ursula over parties that are coming up. Jun 8, 2014
Justin Compton
Lafayette, CO
  5.5
Justin Compton   Lafayette, CO
  5.5
If you're climbing with a 70m the easiest descent is to walk north 40 ft and scramble down to a tree with slings around it. It's one rap to the ground and you can see the tree with the slings around it if you look north after topping out the second pitch. May 22, 2014
Derick L
Philadelphia, PA
 
Derick L   Philadelphia, PA
 
Guy climbing before I led this added a new blue sling at the top of P1 on 5/18/14. I added a grey one at the top of P2. May 19, 2014
ARMoss
  5.7
ARMoss  
  5.7
Great route! Not a 5.5!! Fun, fidgety first pitch followed by a steep, exposed second pitch not unlike High Exposure. Like nearly everyone else has said in one way or another, calling this a 5.5 is a great way to get a new leader seriously hurt. Aug 17, 2013
kenr  
P1 - felt to me like it was hard to point to any single move as harder than 5.5, but it's very sustained. Also seemed like several stances in a row for placing protection were fairly sloping and not as positive as you'd normally expect for placing pro on a Gunks 5.5.

Not a good choice as an early lead for someone whose previous experience is mostly indoors. Aug 4, 2013
Ron Birk
Boston, MA
Ron Birk   Boston, MA
I climbed Ursula last weekend and the slings at the rap station after P1 are indeed in bad shape because of the sharp coarse rock they wrap.

I tried smoothing it out a little with my nut tool (and it got a little better), but it's nowhere as good as a file would be. Someone should really file that one small tiny edge at the anchor and the issue with the slings needed to be replaced every few months would no longer be an issue. Jun 18, 2013
That P1 rappel pinch eats slings for breakfast

That's for sure. May 17, 2013
JSH

JSH    
That P1 rappel pinch eats slings for breakfast -- they HAVE to be replaced often. Inspect carefully. Apr 8, 2013
Simon L
Hartford, CT
  5.6
Simon L   Hartford, CT
  5.6
Great climb with a whole mix of variety. P1 takes small gear, as of 11th Nov 2012 there are fresh slings at the belay/rap station. P2 is quite a bit longer, nice crux move pulling a small overhang then sustained juggy climbing up the face. Takes lots of tricams and cams in C4 0.4 range. Couple of loose blocks to watch out for. Trees at top for anchor, slung for rappel as of 11th Nov 2012. Nov 12, 2012
John Gassel
Boston, MA
  5.6
John Gassel   Boston, MA
  5.6
Just did this route yesterday and really enjoyed it. My new favorite 5.5's at the Gunks. I linked pitches together on doubles and had no issues with rope drag. Makes an awesome ~180ft pitch.

Felt that the first pitch crux as very tough for the grade. Gear placement mid-crux is tricky, best to just push through it, so 5.5ish leaders beware.

Second pitch has some large wobbly blocks. Oct 1, 2012
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
5.6
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
5.6
Great climb but stiff for the grade. I agree with Kevin that pitch 2 feels like PG at the start getting over the initial crux move. Jul 25, 2012
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
the variation on pitch 1 that breaks left and goes up to the roof and ends at some slings (on a couple of pitons and a nut) goes about 5.7 G and stays pretty dry, making it a nice variation for rainy days. Jul 8, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.5
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.5
This is one of the better 5.5 routes at the Gunks. Pitch 1 is thin, committing, and generally well protected. I followed the route properly last year but thought it felt more like 5.7 After following on it and then leading it again this year, Pitch 1 is definitely only 5.5 The 5.7 "variation" is to the right of the route as described.

Pitch 2 I feel is PG at the start and stout for 5.5 Even as a solid 5.6/7 leader at the Gunks I felt this was on the hard side, and the gear above the initial piton/pin wss either far left/right, or just wasn't there for a few moves. There's actually two cruxy moves off the belay ledge and it moderated after that. I feel the start of Pitch 2 is PG-ish. Apr 30, 2012
marcin  
I really enjoyed that climb. Looks like we got into 5.7 variation on P1. So it got tricky but definitely worth trying. We used mostly nuts on P1 and camalots on P2. Great station on the end of P1 to make an anchor. At the end of P2 there is a solid tree. Nov 4, 2011
doligo
  5.5
doligo  
  5.5
Best 5.5 I've been on. Takes a lot of small to medium nuts on P1. Build a gear anchor in the horizontals on the belay ledge and step down so you can see your second. This also lets you get some of the shade coming from the trees. Jul 19, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
P2 is all that and more. It's a fun, happy jug haul from the start to the finish. I think this is one of the nicer 5.5's at the gunks.

Let's talk about P1. The photo above shows what I think is a 5.7 variation. If you climb directly into the alcove, clip the pin in the alcove and then pull the move to get out of the alcove it's 5.5 all the way. If you do the 5.7 variation, it's really thin. Apr 6, 2010
JSH

JSH    
I enjoy Ursula a lot. That said, it's not a route I'll recommend for a new leader - to paraphrase Dizzzy, there's only a little bit of 5.7 on it ;-) and protecting it well isn't trivial - the most obvious placements are nuts in the corner, which will get a significant outward pull. It's also hard to avoid rope drag - use long slings on everything you place at & after the top of the corner. You won't be able to see your second, so consider that as well.

Carefully inspect the sling salad that is the rap station above P1 - the slung constriction has sharp edges, and I've seen it chop through a few slings over the years. Sep 2, 2007