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Routes in i. High E
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50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lakatakissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Todd Swain, John Thackray, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 2,910 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Dana Bartlett on Apr 14, 2010 |
| Admins: | RJ B |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
1. Climb the thin crack up to a blocky overhang. Once past the overhang, belay at a large pine tree. 5.8.
2. Climb up to the base of an open book, move to the nose on the left side of this, then go up to the left side of the obvious overhang. Climb the overhang (crux), then go to the right edge of the face. After that, it's straight to the top.
2. Climb up to the base of an open book, move to the nose on the left side of this, then go up to the left side of the obvious overhang. Climb the overhang (crux), then go to the right edge of the face. After that, it's straight to the top.
Location
About 150 feet or so right of the nose of the High Exposure Buttress. Go past the Third Trapps Chimney, then look for a large, right-facing flake about 15-20 feet high. This is the start of Obstacle Delusion. Alpine Diversions is 15 feet or so right of that. You should see a short, indistinct crack that is immediately left of a small chimney.
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