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Routes in i. High E
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50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Directississima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Ent Line T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lakatakissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Obstacle Delusion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Ridicullissima T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Todd Swain, John Thackray, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 2,328 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Dana Bartlett on Apr 14, 2010 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Description
1. Climb the thin crack up to a blocky overhang. Once past the overhang, belay at a large pine tree. 5.8.
2. Climb up to the base of an open book, move to the nose on the left side of this, then go up to the left side of the obvious overhang. Climb the overhang (crux), then go to the right edge of the face. After that, it's straight to the top.
2. Climb up to the base of an open book, move to the nose on the left side of this, then go up to the left side of the obvious overhang. Climb the overhang (crux), then go to the right edge of the face. After that, it's straight to the top.
Location
About 150 feet or so right of the nose of the High Exposure Buttress. Go past the Third Trapps Chimney, then look for a large, right-facing flake about 15-20 feet high. This is the start of Obstacle Delusion. Alpine Diversions is 15 feet or so right of that. You should see a short, indistinct crack that is immediately left of a small chimney.
Beware of pine sap from the tree! Apr 15, 2010
P1 starting move sucks for shorties - I squeezed myself into the chimney on the right to avoid it. Oct 4, 2010
Wayne, PA
Pretty good climb. The first move is pretty much the whole enchilada on pitch one. Pitch two's first overhang is a good challenge. Dec 5, 2011
Jersey City, NJ
New Paltz, NY
Stone Ridge, NY
Sugarhouse, UT